Ozlorna's Knitting Blog

Sadie, Yoko, Cast On Experiments and the Pridham stand

2012-01-22T20:54:00.014+11:00

Well Yoko aka Sk860 midgauge does fit on the Pridham's stand. There's not a lot a room for much, but it fits, just, and it's a very sturdy stand for a heavy machine.

I've been trying to get a neat ribbing cast on on it, and the last thing to try is the WY first, one row of ravel cord then pretend it's not there.

Here is the photo of both, the one on the left, is straight onto the comb and the one on the right is WY first.

The photo isn't as clear as it should be, but, the WY one is a lot better and worth the hassle. Plan C will be to do the ribs on Miss Pinky Passap, which is no hassle, but I'd have do waste yarn and take it off, and rehang it anyway, then I'd not bother and do the whole thing on the Passap, and it would be too stiff. However, I do need to get this machine learnt and I can't do the 10ply on the Passap.

Some notes for me for next year when I forget what I did:

Do the WY exactly same setting as the project except don't bother to rack back, just leave it in set up for a couple of rows of waste yarn, one row ravel cord, then pretend it's not there and cast on with the main project yarn.

Now some Sadie notes:
Machine: SK860+ribber, with 5 x 200G Bendi Rondo 8ply in Plum.
2.2 IR rib, T2.2/2.2 C/O WY knit a few rows then begin.

I'm doing the largest size, plus a few extra stitches so I can have a few more rows into the raglan. It's coming along.

Back: L55/R55 in 2:2 IR T2.2/2.2 90 Rows. RC000.
Transf all ribber needles onto single needle on MB. 110st T4.1
+1ea end ev 4 (but if I ever make another make it 6) to 124sts
-> straight to RC56. RC000
-9 x 2
-1 ea end ev alt row, but also the first 2 return rows (that 4 dec ea end ev row).
to 32sts. Cast off.

Fronts: L22.R25, same as back, but decided the have a 2st purl gutter next to front band (nos are 49st, +1 to 56 =RC32)
straight to; RC 48 on NE -14 tot = -1 NE ev 5rows.
At RC 56. RC000
AE: -9. -1 AE ev row x 4, then alt rows. RC62.

Sleeves: L33.R 32, 2:2 IR to RC54, RC000
transf for 66 sts - one end moved from R32 to R33 and 2 sts from ribber onto the two empty needles.
+46 sts total = +1 ev 4 rows to 112 sts
to RC98. RC000
-9 x 2, -1 each end next 4 rows, then alt rows to RC62
Front AE is 62RC, Back AE is RC70
over next 8 rows, short rows on FAE side x 6 sts ev 2nd row while still doing dec on BAE
to RC70 - 24sts (shortrowed so do one more over the lot, over the back and onto the other sleeve to make it nice and even). Cast off.

Bands:
P/U .. sts 2:2 IR rib 14 rows. x 1
P/U .. sts 2:2 IR rib 7 rows, work out buttonholes, 7 rows.

Collar:
C/O (ewrap) 90sts knit 4 rows, garter back over, knit 6 rows.
S/R -6needles, knit 2 rows (maybe flipover?) .. tba. no, no, non of that worked.. instead, as all the people on Rav say - do the collar in one not two pieces, and that doesn't work too well on the KM for a couple of reasons - not enough needles and too much flipping and increasing, quicker to knit and much less likely to drop stitches and make a mess.

*Here's what I did instead:

Collar on 4.00mm needles:
C/0 90 x 2 - pm centre back (CB) 180 total.
S/R sequence:
Row 1: knit to last 6 W&T **
Row 2: purl to last 6 W&T
Row 3: do increases*** but count from end, not the W&T, to 2 before CB, W&T
Row 4: purl to end
Row 5: knit across to CB count increases knit to end
Row 6: purl to end 2 sts before CB, W&T.
Row 7: knit to end
Row 8: purl

4 rows on neck edge and centre back, 6 rows on the bits in the middle.

** I did Japanese wrap and turn technique - instead of wrapping around the needle, put a paperclip or bobby pin on the yarn next to the base of the first stitch after turn, then when time to knit back, pick up the pin/clip and knit it with the first stitch that wasn't wrapped. It really gives a beautiful finish. (Here is where I first saw how to do it and shows it much clearer than my words)
*** I did my increases - counting from each end and each side of the centre back, 11, 6, 6 ... middle bit ... 6, 6, 11 - CB - 11, 6, 6, middle bit, 6, 6, 11.

*HOWEVER, after doing that a couple of times and reading to the end of the instructions, I thought of a much better way:

On the short rows and increase block of rows (and PUT IN THE MARKERS, you'll need them):
Row 1: work to last 5 or 6 sts (6 is better) W&T
Row 2: work to last 5 or 6 sts W&T
Row 3: do all the increases as written or make up your own, but make life easy and do the increases next to the marker, and work to last 3 sts W&T.
Row 4: work to last 3 sts W&T
Row 5: work to end
Row 6: work to end (all stitches)

Making two rows on the ends that have to be squished on top of the front bands.. Honestly!!! The less rows the better.

This is the first project I chose to do out of my 2012 bag of not done projects. It was really painless, very convenient, all I need to do is get busy. There looks to be about 10 projects for Yoko. I'm not too sure if I'll do all of them in one go, but I'm trialling getting out a machine, doing a couple of projects and putting it away. Perhaps I'll tackle half of them then do something else, well see. I want to do a pair of fair isle socks next. I can see a time when I'll just get it out do a project or two and put it away again, topping up as things wear out.

Double Layer Felted Slippers

2012-01-11T16:00:00.004+11:00

These are for me out of the Nundle 8ply wool.
I used 4 x 50 g of Camel and 3 x 50 g Natural

The cuffs and sole are double thickness, joined with the slipped stitch of the first layer being placed onto the needles on the second layer.

Machine: KX350, stitch size: T9.

Cuff: Cast on 63sts, then every 4 rows, alternate the EON stitches slipped to RC40,
Straight to RC 44
Then pick up the slip stitch loop and put on needles, every 4th row to end.

Next ones make 24+24+10+1

24 sole and top, 10 = 5 each side and 1 for the seams.

Sole Liner: on 26sts, overlap the ends with two stitches on the centre 13/14sts, then short rows to 12 sts and back for the heel and AT THE SAME TIME do slst EON ev 4 rows
RC 60 put marker for SAYG pick ups.
S/R to 8 knit off on WY or needle

Sole Outer: divide remaining stitches on cuff 5/26/5. The photo showed the pick up on the other side of the cuff, I'm just about to put the first line of slipped stitches onto the needles.
Pick up 26 +1 on other side of cuff. work S/R and pick up every 4 rows down to 12 and back.
Next: pick up 1 st each side x10 - 5 sts each side, don’t forget to pick up slst all the way to toes.

End of S/R to 8, put all stitches from inner onto needles knit back to beginning (top of toe).
at SAYG markers, pick up all side bars on the way back to the cuff.

In other words, I'm always picking up the slipped stitch loops every 4th row, then doing the short row heel, then picking up 5 stitches each alternate side (10 rows) so I have a wider ankle cuff, then working to 60 rows, setting my side bar with a bobby pin, starting my short row toe down to 8sts, putting all the live stitches from the sole liner onto the needles and finishing the short rows back.

Graft to cuff, sew back seam with a loose over stitch.

Felt. This is the bottom of the felted layers. The Bendigo Rustic felts so much better, more evenly, but I have over 40 of these Nundle balls, that I got for $1. at this rate I'll have enough felted slippers for the rest of my life. Unless I so something daring and make a very large coat or blanket out of it.

Lost and Found Hand Knits for 2012

2012-01-08T06:24:00.004+11:00

The main reason I started on my Aidez cardi was I couldn't find the rest of my Midnight Tweed for my Pewter Coat. In the great clean up I found it and other started projects. My list of found hand knit WIPs are:

Pewter Coat in Bendi Midnight Tweed
Capri cardi in Bendi back room treasure
Vest in that really nice handspun corridale I got at the Bendi show
my Shadow Tweed jacket. I had made it up to the armholes, but read it stretches way out of shape, even though it's hand washed, seems to be worse on the larger size, so I've undone it to knit the smaller size - I think the pattern was Emerald. I don't think it will knit on the midgauge, pretty sure it will have to be a hand knit.
really old jumper I bought the wool for - must be around 2003/4ish, that Lauren bought as well, made her jumper and wore it to death and has since thrown it out. And mine got lost in the mess. When I get to it again, I'll see if I can machine it.

My grand plan is to get them all knitted or frogged this year. I don't mind having a couple of hand knits on the go at once, the Midnight tweed has to be done in good light for instance, but I don't want to lose track of where I put the wool again and not have too many on the go at once. The only other thing I need to hand knit are the two packets of Zoomy cotton blend into vests.

Well that's my plans for 2012. Get the hand knits down to one or two, get my machines working away at the stash and enjoy making things again now my spare room is sorted. It was worth packing everything away and organising it.

Now onto stash reduction works.

Resizing {Aidez} Spreedsheets for 8ply

2011-12-29T21:30:00.012+11:00

This is for the people who don't know where to start when they see a lovely pattern and don't have the yarn suitable, either not available (in Australia) or they want to use up stash.

There are so many patterns that fall into this category I thought I'd write how I approach this process. I have some really nice Bendigo Woollen Mills Moorland Pewter in 8ply, which I think will be perfect for an Aidez Cardigan. (Sorry Berroco I don't think anyone in Oz sells it)

Can't remember who was asking me about resizing Aidez for Aussie 8ply either.

Starting with the charts provided and the construction schematic and all their instructions, here is how and what I did to keep all the design elements in the largest size in a thinner wool. I usually paste charts onto an excel spreadsheet.

Take note of the tension/gauge information:
Original: 15 sts = 4”; 16 rows = 4” in St st
My Bendi : 22sts = 10cm; 28 rows = 10cm in st st.

Trellis Panel: 30 sts
Ear of Corn: 8 sts
Seed Wishbone: 12 sts

Back pattern:
Original (which also gets pasted into the spreadsheet):
Establish Pat Sts: Row 1 (RS): K4(7-10-13-16-19), k1TBL, place marker,work Row 1 of Right Cross-St Cable over 8 sts, place marker, = 9 sts
k1TBL, k3, k1TBL, place marker,work Row 1 of Trellis Pat over 30 sts, place marker,= 35 sts
k1TBL, k3, k1TBL, place marker,work Row 1 of Left Cross-St Cable over 8 sts, place marker, k1TBL, = 14sts
k to end.

Centre back panel = 9 + 35 + 14 = 58 sts, which I divided by 15 sts/10cm ( divide by 1.5) gives us 38.67cm - then times by 22sts/10cm (2.2) making it 85 stitches I need to cover the same area.
I worked it out on an excel spreadsheet - much easier to do a resize like this on excel.

I recharted out the trellis pattern (30 sts div by 1.5 then times by 2.2 = 44 sts) easy to do, just keep going up the sides until 44 sts are reached.
I've copied my screen so you can see, I paste in the diagrams to make it easier to work out. Click on it to see a bigger version.

The rest of the patterns for the front and sleeve panels remain unchanged, however I put extra stitches inbetween them. Where the pattern calls for k1tbl, I substituted k3, I put in an extra crossed cable to "fill in" the amount of stitches the pattern covers but, on the left cross cable, on the LAST two stitches, I thought ktbl looked better, so I did that instead.

I could have just knit it as written with the extra stitches on the sides, but as I was knitting the largest size, it matters that the panel would measure 26 cm not the 38cm the pattern was written for. If I'd been knitting the smallest size, I may not have bothered but on the largest size, it would have been out of balance.

I work out where I need to extend the pattern so it covers roughly the same width, if I'm doing set in sleeves I work out where to place cable panels so they run up next to the final armhole shaping and it doesn't get cut off (a pet hate of mine - why or why didn't they move the jolly cable panel over 3 or 4 stitches so the armhole shaping doesn't cut off half the panel and it looks terrible? I don't know either - but I always check that before I put in a cable panel...)

Anyways, I always have to add a little bit extra depth to the armhole to neck, body to armhole and sleeves so for this one, I worked out to finish the top of the back to coincide with the top of the diamond trellis pattern, as it was a raglan I knitted the body to the armholes, the sleeves I'd already knitted so I attached them straight away - an excellent trick I tried the last time I was adding sleeves, it is so much nicer to have the sleeves ready and waiting for the body, but that's just me.

The spreadsheet makes it easy to work out how many stitches for my raglan shaping. For me 80 rows of raglan so I don't have a cardi that cuts under my arms.

So on the sleeves I know I need the initial armhole decreases, (16 sts) then 80 sts for the raglan which will leave me with the centre panel (and no the original hadn't added enough for anybody, most comments were that sleeves were too tight) and the back? also easy, working backwards, the last thing it says is work to xxx sts remain. Get out the calculator and divide by 1.5, times by 2.2 and that is how many stitches you have to have left and in my case, plus 80 sts for the raglan and 8 each side for the initial armhole decreases. Then the fronts - I must have 8 + 40sts for the raglan, normally that's it, but on this particular design, the front panel is knitted at the same time.

This is where I altered the design. I added a few more stitches for the front, and took them away on the neck edge - only 10 extra, which took out the seed stitch panel and the front panel is still extended to the back. I thought it was too much bunched up around my neck and it will sit better.

I hope that explains how to go about working out how to make a pattern written for yarns you don't have, but (like me) would like to use something you've found that will be perfect for the project. And fit when you've finished.

Ready for 2012

2011-12-20T11:14:00.005+11:00

Well I've rummaged, pulled apart my spare room, excel spreadsheeted, listed projects and their yarns, brought them out to the loungeroom and sorted them out into which machine/s they will be made on .. and.. and this morning I took their photo, cause Ann asked to see it - no really - She. Did. So here it is for Ann:

This pile of wool and cotton is bound for the Miss Pinky Passap on chair one and Yoko on chair two:

This one has my wildcard projects in a bag. One is the Electric Blue Allegro, that I had put aside for that lovely Vogue Pattern Forestry. But.. I only bought 4 balls and that won't be enough, but I do have 5 Highland Heather and I wont run out.

The other bags are gorgeous Chyrsanthemum colour 8ply and this really cool blue and gold mystery stuff called "show special" that I bought at the Sydney Craft and Quilt Show in July. I have used up the rest of the stuff I bought - in the Rustic felted slippers. Well I think can all be my wildcard projects, I haven't a clue what to make with them, but hopefully I'll get an inspiration sometime during the year.

And here it all is, all bagged up ready for some 2012 machine and hand knitting.

Getting Ready for 2012

2011-12-18T21:47:00.004+11:00

I've finished up my Christmas knitting. Packed away my Japanese machines, Miss Pinky is up and staying up, and she's ready to go. And I'm clearing out the last of my hoarded junk and sorting out my stash.

Over on Ravelry, we are having a 12MKAL in 2012 from stash only. Well that is wonderful, but that won't be enough to get through my overflowing floordrobe. I've picked up all the bags and boxes from the floor, listed them, sorted out my Rav stash page and projects, patterns and so on and I've spent today sorting it out on an excel spreadsheet. Assigning the machine/hand. And I've been running around finding some of it in boxes and tubs, cause of course, not everything I need is on the floor is it? No. Some of it is packed away where it should be. I'm going "cold sheep" in 2012, not buying anything for a whole year. And I really need some vests.

My friend suggested I put it into those big plastic zipper bags - found them - and tomorrow I'll be able to pack everything up and finish repacking my spare room. Clutter free house coming up.

Felted Slipper Boots

2011-09-21T16:29:00.004+10:00

Working notes for felted slippers with longer ankle section.
Theo wants a pair. He loves the pair I already made him, but would like the next ones to have higher legs section, so his ankles don't get cold.

Theo's beloved slippers - before they were felted

I'm trialling a pair structured this way and Loz is crash test dummy.

Made on my midgauge SK860 aka Yoko, using that fabulous Bendigo Rustic 8ply. Which felts like the clappers, as we'd say. However, 8ply Bendi isn't the thickest - even felted, so I thought I'd make them with some padding. And to help me identify which area/s need improvement I did each section in different colours.
inner sole - bluestone
inside ankle - green tweed
outside ankle - damson
heel - green tweed
sole - damsom
toe green tweed
upper - damsom
Well, without any further adooo. Here's what I did.

It is necessary to know how long/wide you are going to make the foot section. The inner sole covers the entire section, from half of the heel and toe. I'm not sure if the the heel side of the short rows and the top of the toes need to be doubled as well or if fully lined would be good.. We shall see.

Make two inner soles:
Cast on 26 sts on WY, with MY, T8, knit one row, set carriage to hold. RC000.
put centre 8 needles and all 9 needles on the right to hold.
knit one row.
pull out 8 stitches on the left, wrap needle next to the carriage (side)
knit one row and wrap the yarn under innermost needle in hold and working from the centre to the outside, alternative bringing one needle into UWP on the opposite side to the carriage and wrapping under the next needle towards the outside each time, until the end.

In other words, identify the centre panel of needles and each time - wrap the needle on the same side as the carriage and put one needle back into work on the opposite side - each row - but wait, there's more to do..

Side levers go forward. and I left them there for the entire project.
Ev 4th row EON alternating slip stitch is worked.
to do that - leave the carriage in hold and the outside needles don't knit. but with the 1:1 ruler, bring every second needle to Upper Working Position (UWP) and set the carriage to slip. The needles in UWP are knitted, so make sure the first one is next to the new stitch being brought back into work.

Yes I know this is a little bit of work, and I did need to concentrate, but once I got into a rhythm, it went well.
My notes say:
C026 WY, 1 row, working short row from the middle 9/8/9 and EON slip st ev 4th row..
Keeping the EON every 4th row - and I found alternating which needle was slipped gave an evently felted result. (from the experiments I did on the bag a few weeks earlier).
Work K 60 rows then
short rows to 8, take it off and set aside until it's time to graft onto outer sole.

Now onto the ankle part.

I thought doing this in one whole piece was a better option than doing it in two sections. I trialled doing the joining seam in the back and the other one in the front. Loz will tell me which one is better.

Inside and outside pre felted shown

Cuff - I'm not going to explain how to do the slip EON alternating needles ev 4th row - see previous instructions.

CO 63 (1 for join) T8 - cuff on WY, change to Col 1, then 1:1 EON slip st ev 4th row 30 rows change col 2.
knit 2 rows, pick up loops from slip st EON and continue on till all rows /loops are worked.
T9 - join together 1 row.
T8 - Divide up 13/5/26/5/14 (= +1 for join) which is for back/sides/front/sides/back
take off 26 = for front in the middle of the work, then the 5 each side onto bobby pins then transfer the 13 and 14 (overlapping the centre stitch for 26 sts getting ready for the heel to be worked. Change to heel colour short row down to 9/8/9 join inner sole on all needles and work short rows out. - joining loops from slip stitches ev 4th row EON.

Change to under sole colour and reset RC AND keep a note of where you are with the every 4th row pick up loops.....
Theses are the things that are going on at the same time:
putting on the loops from the inner sole every 4th row
putting on the side stitches one at a time from the bobbypins (ten times in total)
putting the bar from the inner sole onto the end needle after the side sts only (ten times in total)
NOW pick up those side stitches, on opposite side of the carriage, pick up one of the bobby pins and put it on the last needle AND a side bar from inner sole, but just for these 10 stitches, AND keeping the putting the loops from the inner sole every 4th row (don't forget), for the first 10 rows - opposite ends of the carriage is having side stitches put on from bobby pins, loops are onto the correct needles every 4th, when that's done, continue to RC 60 rows, but don't join to the inner sole - that's done when the top is formed.
Now change to toe colour and work short rows to 8, attach the end of the inner sole, continue graduations back out to 26sts, change to top colour and join to both sole pieces SAYG to end.
Graft (kitchener) to cuff.
Secure and weave in ends.
Felt to desired size.
Stitch and row count may have to be adjusted. Loz will let me know if every second row would be better, whether the back of the heel needs to be double thickness - top of toes? top of foot? too soon to tell.

Felted Fibonacci Bag

2011-07-22T17:56:00.008+10:00

Continuing on with Slip Stitch Felted things. And my fascination with Fibonacci stripes... I have made a felted bag.

Done on my SK860 - Yoko in more of the 8ply Rustic I bought for felting. It was cheap, what can I say. And I don't always have to have bright stuff, I can do subtle.. Really!

The Fibonacci sequence is 21, 1, 13, 2, 8, 3, 5, 5, 3 8, 2, 13, 1, 21 rows in alternating colours. I don't cut the yarn, instead I pick up the colour from the side it was on last - much, much easier having no ends to weave in and the felting squishes them rather well.

The first thing to do is prepare the inside gussett.
T7: on WY cast on 70 sts, change to main yarn and do the EON slip stitch every 4th row. Work 20 (or more) rows. Take off with deckers, WY, garter bar - whatever and set aside.

Now the the bag itself.

T7 ***( I did 7, but if I make it again I'll try it on 6 for a tighter edge only for the folded hem on the top of the bag)
T ?6: C/O 80 work 3 rows,
1 row EON slip stitch, (RC4)
straight to RC7
1 row EON slip stitch (RC8)
straight to RC13
next row pick up slip stitch hem row (RC 14)
straight to RC18
pick up slip stitch row RC19
Knit to 20
Join to cast on row.
Change to T7 and work straight to RC31.
Every 10th Row, begining at RC31, decrease one stitch each end to 70 sts, and begin Fibonacci sequence. I didn't bother with resetting the RC, I counted the sequence while I was decreasing. The last one was on the last row of the 5/5..HERE IS THE LAST DEC.. before change of colour to 3/8.
OTHER SIDE BEGINS IT'S INCREASES at the same point.

When finished the Fib sequence. Change to the base colour, I decided to use the colour I started with (I had more balls of it is why...) Rehang the prepared base liner. (I used a different colour cause it was left over from the slippers and I only had enough for 20 rows).
It's on the inside of the bag so it doesn't matter.
work 3 rows , hang the slip loops every second needle and repeat till the loops are all worked, work 3 rows, join the cast on edge. I didn't offset the loops, kept them on the same needle every 4th row - yes it does make a difference to the finished felted result.

Next thing is to reverse the sequence colours, remembering to increase 1 st each end at the beginning of the ..5/5 row sequence.
Reverse the bag edge, REMEMBERING TO do the slip stitch row on the 4th row (and yes I did forget and have to undo the stupid thing and do it properly). Join again by either, slip stitch or kitchener it.

Sides and handles: RC000.

Pick up 10 stitches (the bars) from BOTH the outside and liner onto the same needle.
Using sew as you go, join as you work to the beginning of the folded hem. Stop and put on WY etc.
Do the other side the same.
When up to the Stop and put on WY etc, put onto garter bar and flip it over, to do the underside of the handle.
Move the carriage to the side that has the yarn joined to it.

Handle: Keep going with the sew as you go on the inside foldover and;
Work 3 rows
Work 1 row EON slip stitch ...But the next time alternate the needle it's going on. Exactly like the sock heel flap.. makes a big difference to the handle's finish after felting, so yes it's worth doing. I used the needle selector ruler, put it on the side that the first needle next to the carriage pushed up that sequence, then put it to the opposite side so the next turn to do the slip stitch row, the first needle on the other side pushed that set up.
keep going (alternating the needles being pushed) to RC 180 or more and begin the sew as you go on the inside of the fold over AND the slip stitches every 4 rows.
Take off the machine (garter bar is good) re hang, making sure it is NOT twisted, loop side is facing out, rehang the held stitches from the side.

Working sew as you go on the opposite side to the carriage the whole way, work 3 rows, pick up the loops to the end. take off and kitchener stitch to the other side so it looks neat.

Weave in ends. There isn't any sewing, it's all done. There aren't any ends from the stripes either, because the carriage is moved to the side of the next colour.

Felt.

I used the dryer as the front loader isn't as good for this.

Hand washed all the stuff I'd knitted for felting (a bit of red dye came out of the hats and slippers.) I washed in hot water, rinsed in cold, then hot, then cold until the water ran clear and chucked one bag, one hat and 8 slippers into the dryer, I stopped it every couple of minutes to check on things. The bag was done first. I didn't want to felt to too much, and it was done at a lower stitch size - I didn't give it as much room to felt down. (then the slippers and then the hat for 5 mins extra).

The wool I used last time to felt wasn't going to give it up and I had to chuck it in the front loader on hot wash with a pair of jeans. But the Bendigo Woollen Mills Rustic is a dream to felt.

Slip Stitch Brim on Two Hats

2011-07-22T11:16:00.006+10:00

I bought some Bendigo Woollen Mills Rustic 8ply in 50g balls from the Sydney Craft and Quilt show in June. I wanted to do some felting experiments with slip stitch as an alternative to garter stitch on the SK860 mid gauge aka Yoko.

Basically, they are the same hat design, but in different sizes so I could felt one.

I'll write up the unfelted hat first, it's a beanie with a sun visor is what it is.

Prepare the Brim first:
T4: Cast on 50, (ewrap), and do two things at once: every 4th row, do one row EON slip stitch, (two posts back is details on how to do this). First thing is do short rows, 1 needle end of every row down to 17 sts and then do two rows, starting across the 17 sts, to the end, one complete row then a part row back to where you started and short row back.
On the way back, pick up a loop and put it on every second needle (EON).
Put the cast on edge but don't knit. Take off machine however you like, WY, garter bar, knitting needle.

Crown:
Cast on 120 + 2 (one extra on each ends 11.1.1 ~ 1.1.11) EON for a mock rib. work 20R. Join up the cast on edge into the empty needle, don't knit yet, put the brim on.
However, what I did in the photo was put the brim on top of the mock rib, however, I put it UNDER on the felted one, which I liked better.
Next, knit one row, mock rib, both edges of the brim, all in one row. Reset RC to 000.
Work straight to 50 rows.
skipping the Edge stitches - don't count them, they are being sewn together. (What we are doing is K2tog, k6 repeat to end). put needle 2 onto 3, miss the next 6, then needle 10 onto 11, and so to end and fill in the gap = rehang however you like - garter bar, waste yarn, circ needle. knit 4 rows.
Reducing the missed stitches by one needle each time, do this twice more (three lots of 4 rows inbetween), then every second till there are no more stitches inbetween.

I completely messed up the first one because I did not make sure, before I did the 2togs, that I was on the correct needle and that I had the correct number of needles inbetween.

Finishing: take off, thread through the loops, sew up back seam, weave in ends.

Next are the numbers for the felted version:
Brim:
T7: C/O 72, short row sequence: 1 sts at each end 10 times, then 2 sts each end to 22 sts and back, while doing the slip stitches, EON every 10th row.
Crown:
C/O 160 + 2, EON mock rib, 20 rows, same as the other one.
Join the end of the rib, cap under the rib, knit one row.
Knit 16 rows,
Skip the first needle, then 2 tog, 8, to end, three times. (three sets of 16 rows) Same, reducing of the needles inbetween,
then do the same every 4th row till none are left.

Finish the same.
Felting. I had a real feltathon so in it went in with 4 pairs of slippers and a bag. I have a front loader, so I hand washed them all, got the excess dye out of all the red things, rinsed till clear, made a pathetic effort in squeezing out the excess water = put them all in the bucket and chucked them all into the dryer on super hot. Which was ok because they had just come out of a hot/cold/hot/cold hand wash cycle. I checked on them every couple of minutes, redunked the hat, took out the bag, and they them all another bash around the dryer, took the socks out then it had another 5 mins to really shrink down.

I thought the brim felted in an interesting pattern, the EONs were in line on the same needle. I really like the result, much better than garter stitch, which makes also makes a thicker piece where you need it but always looks - lumpy, doesn't it.

Slip Stitch Stocking Stitch Hem Edge

2011-07-22T11:01:00.006+10:00

After I did the slip stitch socks, I was surprised to see it at our knitting club meeting last June.

We are going through one of the older no-longer-knitting ladies' sample book. It's a lovely collection of samples. Margaret was "picked" (we all duck under the chair when asked "who's going to show us something from the book next month") and she chose this one:

Knit your band however you like, WY, ravel cord, ewrap, whatever, and knit half the band. Bring EON out to hold, set your machine to either PART; Russel levers | side levers forward; ***BX (but I'd do that on the back bed and drop the FB for the next part, but that's me). knit one row.
Return setting to what they were before.
Knit three rows.
Pick up loops (every 2nd needle has a loop)
knit second half of the band.
Pick up stitches from beginning and join in your usual manner.

I liked this so much I decided to do some experimenting.

Edit: ***
or you could bring them up on the back bed, GX/N the next three rows and transfer them to the FB. But really the Passap do such a lovely cast on anyway, I wouldn't bother.

Loz's Slip Stitch Heel Flap Socks

2011-07-02T17:41:00.014+10:00

Loz likes the heel flap socks like she hand knits and
was asking can she make them on her KX35o.

So, my bright idea for Lauren's socks are done. I thought. And this is what I came up with.

They could be made on any single bed machine - just adjust stitch count and rows.

The cast on numbers are 20-24, depending on how wide the sock. I did this pair on T4, however, I think T3, 3.1 would be better. A tighter knit is usually preferred. However the thicker socks? Best experiment and see what is preferred.

So.. Cast on and/or not do your cuff of choice. Maybe your cuff of choice is to pick up the stitches and knit the ribbing? Maybe drop back and latch up? Or mock rib? Hung hem? Pick one.

then roughly 30-40 rows to heel

RC000. Set the KX35o to Partial knitting on the left side (flip the side lever up). Do that on the SK860, but also flip the dial to Slip. (Apparently Punchcard No. 1 does it automatically - Doesn't help if you have neither of these machine, but if making these on a standard punchcard? Good, go for it).

Ok back to doing the slip stitch heel flap.

Starting on L10, bring EON up to hold (so only they knit) PLUS THE NEEDLE ON THE OTHER END.
Knit 2 rows.

Now starting on R10 bring up EON PLUS THE OTHER END NEEDLE.
Knit 2 rows.

Repeat these four rows for (say) 22 rows. (Always - BOTH ENDS NEEDLES WILL KNIT)

Turning the heel:

This bit is surprising tricky.

Identify one third of the needles in the centre.
It is MUCH easier if the end numbers are divisible by 2....
for 20 sts: 6/8/6
or 22 sts: 8/6/8 or 6/10/6
or 24 sts: 8/8/8.

Now what you are doing is knitting xxx stitches, k2tog, k1, turn. Sl 1, p xxx sts, p2tog, p1 turn - repeating until all stitches are knitted.

Starting with carriage on the right, identify your centre, and with your two prong tool, pick up the two stitches next to it and move them over 1 needle. (the handknitting equivalent of K2tog, K1.)
Either put the remaining needles on the left in hold, or slip them onto bobby pins etc.

Knit one row, bring the needle closest to the carriage out to hold. pick up the 2 stitches on the right and move them over one needle and remove the other stitches (exactly as you have done on the left). knit one row.

Now do this all the for the next couple of rows until all the stitches are back in work:

On the carriage side: bring the last needle knitted out to hold
on the opposite side: bring one new needle up into WP, put the first stitch hanging on the bobby pin onto the needle that was on hold last row and the second stitch onto the new needle.
(what you are doing is: Slip one, knit to last stitch held, knit it plus the next stitch together, knit 1, turn)

Picking up the stitches from the side of the heel flap. 22 rows = 11 sts to be picked up.
I tried picking up the bar - but on the thick yarn, the bump is better. However - after the first one, it's very, very difficult to prize the little blighter loose, so I ran a thin needle up them all and they went on beautifully.

Knit one row.

Do the same to the other side. It is a very big stretch, I made it almost to the end, but slipped a couple of bobby pins onto them, knit one row, then slipped them on and hand knitted them.
knit two rows very quickly - before it gets time to get cranky.

Now, doing the gusset. Fully fashioned is the norm.

Each end. Pick up needle 3, put on top of needle two and move both over one needle and return the end needles to RP.

Knit 2 rows.

Continue until you are back to your original stitch count.

This is a bit of a guess - do xx rows to your toe. Somewhere between 40-50 depending on length of foot and how many rows done in the toe.

But before you do them, identify the correct bar to collect on the way back by putting a marker - bobby pin, paperclip, scrap of yarn on the bar before you start your toes.

Short row toes:
If you have round shaped toes, then do short rows until 10 sts, about half the stitches remain.
If you have more pointed toes, then do short rows until 6 or 8 sts, roughly a third of the stitches remain.

Using the Sew-As-You-Go technique, continue knitting until you are at your cuff stage and match what you did when you began.

I've done step-by-step instructions into a PDF for her. I've popped it on Ravelry download, there are a lot more photos decribing the technique.

Loz Socks

2011-06-28T20:53:00.004+10:00

I've been experimenting with heel flap style single bed socks for my daughter's KX350. Some call it slip stitch heel flap in machine knitting circles, or so I've been told.

You see... I had an idea. I've written it up for her to try...

If I've explained it properly, I'll finish it off and put up the PDF on Ravelry.

Wildhoney's Machine Knit Shawl "Kate"

2011-06-13T11:11:00.006+10:00

Over on Ravely, we asked wildhoney - aka Natalia, how she made her Shawl "Kate", she was kind enough to write it out in English for us, which is excellent, our Russian isn't very good. This is what she wrote:

_________________________________________________________

I’m sorry, my language is not very well.
You asked about the shawl? there are shot rows, they make a half of the circle. There are 8 wedges (or triangles) and a ruffle.

I’ll try to describe…

Cast on 200 st and make 2 rows. Turn on a shot-rows mode on a carriage, (1)put forward in position D 3 st. Repeat from (1) every 2nd row till 4st in work. Turn off the shot-rows mode and make 2 rows. = it is 1 triangle. Repeat it 8 times (or more, if your gauge is different)

The ruffle: cast on 20st. and make 10 rows by some different thread and 1 row of main thread (the carriage is on right side). put the edge st of the shawl on the last left needle (there two sts on needle now, ruffle has 20 sts always! do not increase!), make 1 row and move the carriage on right. (4) Do 20 rows (10 edge sts in work) and make a triangle: (2)Turn on a shot-rows mode on a carriage.
put forward in position D 2 (or 4) sts. on left. Repeat from (2) every 2nd row till 4st in work (on right side). (3)Push 2st in position B. Repeat from (3) every 2nd row. Turn off the shot-rows mode and work like from (4)

Hope, I’m not too silly to explain :) If you have questions, I’ll try to answer with pleasure.

This pattern is based on the pattern by Olga Igumnova and ruffles are by Anna (Annabox from Osinka.ru)

_________________________________________

Some of our newer knitters wanted a more detailed instructions, and here it is for them:

The Shawl:

Cast on 200 sts (Natalia says she used 410g of yarn) with waste yarn.

Knit 2 rows

(1) Set machine to Hold for short rows.

** put 3 needles into HP (bring them all the way out), knit 2 rows** (either wrap needle or make an eyelet, choose whichever you like best - Diana Sullivan's sock youtube tutorial describes this very well - move the marker to about the 6 minute mark - but we are only doing short rows on one side, so we make a nice wedge)

Repeat from ** to ** until 4 sts remain.

Take machine off Hold, knit 2 rows. (2)

This sequence makes one triangle. Repeat from (1) to (2) at least 8 more times, depending on the thickness of the yarn.

The Ruffle:

Cast on 20 sts on waste yarn and knit about 10 rows. Change to main yarn. Carriage on Right (COR)

Put the edge of the shawl on the last needle (using Sew As You Go Technique - link to Diana Sullivan's youtube lesson - which explains this very well). There will be two stitches on this needle, the last needle's stitch and the first loop on the shawl. DO NOT INCREASE STITCH COUNT.

(3) *Knit 2 rows, put a bar from the edge of the shawl onto the last needle*

Repeat from * to * 10 times (20 rows and 10 edge stitches have been made)

Set machine to Hold for short rows.

++put 2 or 4 needles into HP on left, knit 2 rows ++ Repeat from ++ to ++ until 4 sts remain.

+ push 2 or 4 needles into UWP (Upper working position - take care not to push them in too far, about 2cm or 3/4" of needle hanging past the gatepegs is about right), knit 2 rows +. Repeat from + to + until all needles are in WP. (4) (choosing 2 sts will produce a lot of ruffle!)

Repeat from (3) to (4), but omit one set of knit 2 rows—so only 2 rows are knitted between sets not 4. Always 2 rows between actions - either putting on the edging or doing the short rows.

Finish and embellish as you refer. Choosing a beautiful yarn is probably the best thing to do for the first one before fiddling with beads etc.

___________________________________________

There you are girls, I hope you can follow the instructions.

Machine Dutch Heel

2011-06-05T08:06:00.006+10:00

Sandy, on Ravelry, found a delightful pattern for machine knit Dutch heel socks. Well, you know me and socks - had to try them out, didn't I?

Very interesting construction. I really liked how they turned out. I haven't worn them yet, but the day is still young. I may just need to wear them today.

I followed the instructions as written, on the Passap, I've put all the std gauge machines away, so dropped the front bed and worked the rows on Miss Pinky.

I decided to put a little bit of padding to the mini flap rows.

My numbers are:
C/O72, T3.5, 2.2 IR ribbing 16R
T4.75, CX/CX 170R
*GX/BX 1.1, right arrow, 1 row, end pushers WP.
GX/N 1 row, bring outside pushers to WP*
Repeat * to * for 24 R
GX/N, Heel divide: 11/14/11 (follow original instructions) RC000
CX/CX T4.75 30R NO reset, change to T4.5, to 150R
Toes - Dec 1 sts all four edges on RC 150, 158, 164, 17o, 174, 178, 182, 186 then ev round till 8 sts remain.

Sock Day at Epping

2011-06-05T08:03:00.000+10:00

I ran a sock day at Epping for NSW Machknit. It was a hands on type of day. Lots of machines for people to try out the different techniques.

Kris Basta from kriskrafter.com gave permission for us to use her felted slippers pattern and Cathie Sanders from northtipton.com have permission for us to use Gerta Sitt's machine Dutch Heel.

A big thank you to both ladies for allowing me to include the patterns in our hand out notes.

Hallo Sweetie

2011-05-01T10:54:00.002+10:00

"Hallo Sweetie!" says River Song, just as kitty walked past.

Kitty rushes up to television and says "hallo" right back.

Then rushes over to me and says "hallo"... soooo pleased with herself...

I give her lots of pats as she purrs her silly head off and told her yes, the tele did say hallo to her, and didn't shatter her happiness, I just kept watching the Dr Who rerun of last season's finale...

Never a dull moment around here....

Lace Carriage Notes

2011-03-08T20:13:00.010+11:00

I've made some notes for me for the lace carriage, with pictures.

Kitty, as always, is right on hand to help.

Dont move the needles beyond the needle bed.
Use ravel cord to hold stitches, (this works really well).
Take time to do it right.

Use the lace carriage to do the stocking stitch.
Yarn in the feeder, side levers forward and no punchard.

It knits at a looser stitch than the main carriage.

Inserted lace card

To tell the carriage where the pattern goes (starting from the back) :

bring the white lever next to the card forward.
Set the edge pins.
on the carriage flick the side levers forward, and the dial to transfer.

When ready to start, move both levers back and the centre dial down.

Increases and decreases are done on the opposite end so the carriage knows where it starts and it's new end position becomes it's new start for the next row.

Causes of jams are, the edgepins becomes dislodged sometimes, push it back. Also hold new ball under the feeder until it takes up.

When, say doing the second side, it's necessary to tell the carriage where to knit. LEAVE the near side edge pin in place, MOVE the farside pin to it's new position, move three levers into the "read" position: lever next to the card and side lever forward, dial to the left and yarn out. Move carriage past the new position for the left edgepin. Stop. move the first pin on the far right to it's new position, so now it knows where it's up to, thread up the machine and return all the setting to working position.

Make sure to pass BOTH edge pins AND the drums need to clear the punchcard assembly AND the row counter.

No Chat Day

2011-02-13T21:05:00.005+11:00

I've been having no chat, just knit days on Ravelry to get a good run on some challenging projects. I think I spend too much time chatting and not enough time knitting, doing housework, sewing, reading etc.

I'm learning to use the Silver Reed machines this year and decided to rework the Apres Surf Hoodie, from the Summer 08 Interweave Knits mag, using Lace Card 10, rather than hand manipulate all the lace. I wasn't really interested in duplicating the lace as written, rather enough to do working the darn machine. It's the little things I've decided, something so simple as working the prong tools, totally different technique, I kept jamming them.

Another wonderful thing is I managed to do the decreases before the lace with the garter bar. Now for the problem. My darling cat used to be a wild thing. She decided that the garter bar box was dangerous, not to be trusted and spent an anxious hour working up enough courage to sniff it. Then decided to sit on me, then lay next to me, just in case it turned evil.

It reminded me of when she was new, and plastic bags were the most scary things. I decided to well and truly kill them for her. threw them on the ground and jumped up and down on them till she was happy they were no longer a threat. So we don't mind them now, even attacks her own paper bags now - all by herself. She has her ways...

Now back to my back - I. Have. Finished. It. And on the way, I've learnt -
to do fashion lace with the punchcard,
how to increase and decrease,
use the garter bar to do decreases over the work.
do a better roll hem
undo four rows without messing up where I was on the punch card
Remember to take out the yarn and put it back in

Phew: Ta Da:

Finished my Spiral Jumper

2011-01-26T19:30:00.003+11:00

I've finished it and here it is. Phyllo Yoke Sweater from the Knitting Nature book.

It worked out very well. The only odd thing was the chart instructions. Of course every second round is knitted, but nowhere did it actually say to do that. Plenty of blather about seashells. I think less seashells and more attention to correctly writing out the instructions would be better all round. Never mind, here is a closer look as the yoke:

I like how the KX350, with the wobbly tension mast, makes the stocking stitch sections a little bit uneven, just enough to add a nice look to it. Very pleased. I'm sure when the weather cools down it will be my fav jumper.

A Book, a Bag, a Machine and an Afternoon

2011-01-17T07:42:00.005+11:00

This is what an afternoon spent knitting at a machine looks like. The book "Knitting Nature", which has the Phyllo Yoked Jumper I'm making, an empty bag of Paton's Washed Haze, a Brother KX350 and an afternoon of getting stuck into it. Working on projects is not a pretty activity, there's mess - tools, workbook, cleaning cloth, weights, end of balls dangling, empty ball bands, waste yarn strewn where it landed. So here is a photo of the end of the day's work. It's not a pretty picture, but I decided work never is.

By the time I got to the 14th ball, I had made the front, back and sleeves, all up to the armhole ready for me to hand knit the yoke.

I changed the pattern a little bit, I did a rolled hem, first one ever, put in a couple of stitches waist shaping and short rows not 2tog on the neckline.

T6 gave 19S/26R = 10cm, which closely matches 4.5mm wood knitpics circs.

Now it's on it's way, I'm up to the first row of the chart.

....And I have tidied up! I've finished the projects I'd lined up for the KX350.

No Boring Bits Machine and Hand Knit Projects

2010-12-17T12:30:00.011+11:00

I'm interested in putting some hand knit panels onto the machine and getting the machine to do the boring bits.

I know there are many ways to do this already. Tried and true, but I thought I'd like to see which one I liked best.

The most obvious one is to sew the pieces together with mattress stitch, but I didn't want to do that, mostly because I thought it would pull in an unpleasant way along the bustline.

Firstly, daughter decided to try our hand at a Drops dress/tunic pattern and I decided to do Climbing Vines, both have a varying stitch count over a number of rows and is too much of a pain to do on the machine.

On this one, daughter hand knitted the bands on the train to and from work, and joined the "bar" up on the KX350 Brother machine. As best described in Diana Sullivan's single bed sock tutorial. However, this is excellent for thinner sock wool, on this 8ply yarn, it's not quite so good.

Next bright idea we had was to pick up the "bump" not the "bar". As Best described as being the bit between the bar, very each to pick up on thick work.

This brings me to my second project that I've been trying to figure out the best way of making, the Climbing Vines Jumper.

So I decided to knit up the leaf panel on 4.00mm needles, but first I did the ribbing on the Passap, cause it's quick and easy. Then onto the plastic KX350:

Here is a pretty clear shot of the "bump" that we decided may give a tighter "seam"

I used the single prong to get the stitch and put it back onto the machine.

And put it onto the needle, which is done every second row and really worked well.

I've made some Shawls

2010-12-05T12:29:00.004+11:00

It's been a bit longer than I thought, since I blogged. Daughter moved in for a few weeks, which of course turned into about a month longer. We've been stuffed into a 2 bed apartment, my son, my cat and my darling daughter had a bed in the dining room where I had my machines set up, so they got squashed into the only spare space left. Daughter is more important than machines! Time to do some handknitting - with beads. Why not?

Anyways, she has left this morning, visiting friends, then staying with her Dad until she leaves for the UK to spend Christmas with her new soon to be inlaws.

I've made her a shawl from some gorgeous silk I bought from the Bendigo Wool and Sheep Show in July, direct from the Moseley Park stand - Moseley Park 100% silk laceweight in Ice Glow.

Loz chose Haruni and I bought the silver lined silver beads from Empire Beads, the 3mm (8/0) and 4.5mm (5).

Then I decided to make up my silk/merino I won as a monthly prize from theknittery, when Daphne was in Victoria, she's now in the US and not dyeing. Such a shame, I loved her work.

So, while I was looking at shawls I came across Frozen Leaves and decided it would be perfect. I ordered the beads for both and here is mine:

This month, I hopefully will be machining again.

Machined Shawl Collared Cardigan

2010-10-03T09:54:00.009+11:00

The original Shawl Collared Cardigan appears in Jo Sharp's Knit Is s ue 1, which has no machine instructions. I have deviated from the written instructions, stitch count, bands and collar shaping. If anything isn't clear, please obtain your own copy of the book and go from there.

Knit on SK860 midgauge + ribber.
5 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Highlands in Cinder.
T5 swatch = 22st/28r = 10cm

All bands start with 3 sts on each end, then 11.11 each bed, HP, weight the end stitches to start with, I used a bulldog clip onto the end of a double ended latch tool that came with the machine.

Back
Bands: T2.2/2.2 MB+R; L65..R65 in 2.2 IR rib.
I use long tail cast on and transferred the stitches onto the needles. you need +200 if you do this way, I left the extra dangling until I hung the combs.
work 20R
Body: Transfer all the RB sts to the MB, the 2 group onto the empty needle. (13o sts) reset RC000.
put waist shaping in if you want, but otherwise ->120R reset RC.
Armhole: -6 ev row twice - I thread onto a little piece of scrap. Then -1 (3rd needle onto second, move both in one st) both ends ev alt row 15 times (88st), work to 62R.
Shoulder: set carriages for short row shaping. Reset Russell levers to | both sides.
bring 3 needles on left to D, knit one row, bring 4th needle to D, (4 needles now out of work),
bring 3 needles on right to D, milk the yarn to ensure tight wrap. knit one row, bring 4th needle to D, continue these two actions 4 more times till you have 44 sts COR.
next row is tricky, bring out your 4th needle, STOP, this is the tricky bit don't knit yet, milk the yarn, as you move SLOWLY to take up the wrap BUT YOU MUST NOT LET THE LEFT EDGE OF YOUR CARRIAGE go past your left side wraps, you have to STOP TO DO RESET:
before the edge of the carriage reaches your wrapped stitches, you do reset your Russell lever LEFT SIDE ONLY to ||, this will take up all your stitches on the left, knit to the end of the row, reset right Russell lever to || knit off your final row.
take off all sts however you prefer, mine go onto the circs I keep for this.

Fronts - make two, reversing the shaping on the other one.
L23/R23 work Same as back, with shaping on one side only.
Note: there is no neck shaping.

Sleeves - make two
L23/R23 work bands same as body. RC000
T5 +1 by moving last sts onto next empty needle, pick up the stitch bar under 2nd needle and place on empty needle, both ends every 4th row to 96 sts (RC100)
work to 120RC. reset RC.
Sleeve cap: -6 next (onto scrap), then as before, 3rd onto 2nd and move both in one needle, -1 each end 18 times (RC38), then ev row 15 times to 12 sts and take them off to cast off or cast off around the posts, whichever you prefer.

Bands
T2.2/2.2 MB/RB L16/R16 2.2 IR rib, work to 140 RC, then + 1 ev 6 rows ALL SHAPING IS ON THIS SIDE, then at RC212 or 72 if you did a reset, place a marker, a paper clip, small piece of scrap yarn whatever you choose, this is your shoulder seam and it makes it easier to sew it up - just saying. I put short rows in here, it sits so much better with them.
**Reset RC000 and BOTH carriages to | (all four russell levers) knit one row. COL.
on RIGHT side, pull the (MB) 1x2, 3x2 and (RB) 3x2 needles to D, knit one row
pull out one needle from MB, milk yarn and knit one row.
pull out 3x2 + 3x2 (but one will already be out on the MB- the wrapped stitch), milk, knit.
repeat last 2 rows,** reset ALL Russell levers to || knit to RC36
repeat ** to **
reverse the short rows, wrapping as you go bring needles to B, set side levers to collect them.
knit to RC78 repeat from ** to ** Reset RC000.
-1st ev 6th row to original stitch count = 72RC. reset RC and knit another 140 rows.

Finishing
do 3 needle cast/bind off on shoulders, align your collar with the shoulder seam and join whichever way you like. set in sleeves with linker, machine or darning needle, finish side seams and weave in ends. As you can see, I had help with this.

Making a Vest

2010-09-26T18:41:00.005+10:00

Theo and Anth took me to Bendigo in July. On the way we stopped at Wangaratta mill shop and Theo bought some 3ply blue wool. Then I said I'd make him a vest. He likes the Passap and the Passap likes 3ply - all good.

All was well for the body and I decided to do the armhole and neck ribbing on the Passap, put it on waste yarn and sew/graft/kitchener it on. Well that was a dismal failure. It looked really awful, so in the end I took up the knitpicks 2.25s and did them by hand. Much better.

Neverending Big Vest on SK860 Mid Gauge

2010-09-05T06:46:00.007+10:00

I decided to make a vest in July, to wear to the Bendigo Show. A plain simple vest. Right. Finished it this week.

I'm still learning how to use the mid gauge and decided to do the cast on for the 2:2 IR rib in the book. I tried many times before realising that I was doing it right - but it looked awful because it was awful. I tried to adapt the Passap cast on.. nope didn't work either. In the end I used the Knitted back e wrap cast on (Ch2.5 in Susan Guagliumi's HMS4MKers) that works so well for single bed Passap work. I put three extra to move back a needle to keep it even: I started out with 7 sts, used the double eyelet to transfer 2 sts to the ribber, moved 3 over one needle, cast on 4 more and so on until I had it all done. While it worked I'm still looking for a "perfect" cast on for 2:2 IR on the middi, going to do a crochet cast on next.

I had 3 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Bramble Allegro
and 1 x 200G BMW 8ply Dark Plum 8ply Classic

Now onto the back:
Cast on 2:2 IR, 65L to 65R, T2.2 both beds; knit 20 rows.
On the ribber: leave the 10 centre ones, and transfer all the others into the single needle space on the main bed.
T5 MB and T2.2 Ribber. RC000, knit 120 rows
Armhole: RC 000
-10 next two rows
-1 ev 2rows 9 times
straight to 72 RC
Shape Shoulder:
-8 next 4 rows. (I did short rows, then one more to seal it off)
take off however you like, I put onto circ needles.

Fronts:
Cast on 47 (counting on the main bed, the ribber stitches count as one.
T2.2, knit 20 rows.
transfer all stitches to main bed but keep the ribber up and use the ribber arm
- otherwise... you guessed it... you make it and the tension is different.. so you have to make it again to match the back - and that was just ONE of the many, many undos I did, just warning ya!
T5, ribber up but no stitches, knit 120 rows. RC000
-10
-1 ev alt row 9 times
straight to 72
-8 (Armhole edge) ev 2nd row twice.
make another one with reverse shaping.
Now wasn't that easy? I thought so.

Band
This is where I really, really came unstuck. I didn't buy enough wool and I couldn't for the life of me work out where to get a magic ball (for the non Aussies, one of our famous painters, Norman Lindsay, wrote and illustrated a book called the Magic Pudding, about a pudding that never ran out. A classic children's book here).

Now back to the band... for reasons known to noone I wanted a wide band. And have enough left over for a small sleeve cap.. I really liked the Kaino vest and had this in mind.

Things I tried that didn't work: Do it on the passap with the two colour changer with two rows each of dark plum and bramble. Ran out of wool. Made it thinner, only 5o rows to go.. Ran out of wool. Remade it on the Passap with 6 rows of dark plum across the back of the neck - nope still ran out. Went back to the vest. Did it really have to be that long? OK I could do with 30 rows less. Undid everything. Remade it all with 120 rows.... sigh... Will this vest ever get made?

Back to the band:
Let's pretend I bought enough to do the whole thing in one colour:
Cast on ... heavens I didn't write down the numbers properly, but
11 groups of 2 on the main bed and 10 on the ribber would be good. Take a look on your back and decide if you want it that wide or wider. anyway, here's the numbers:
T2.2
Knit to 140 rows, RC000
+ 1 st every 4 rows (however you like) 18 times (RC64),
knit straight to RC 76 PUT IN A MARKER on the neck edge (where the increases are). RC000
straight to 74 RC. PUT IN A MARKER on the neck edge. RCOOO
knit straight to 12RC
- 1 st every 4 rows (however you like, but looks good if you match the increases). RC76. Reset RC000
work straight to 170 rows.

Of course... I couldn't do that, could I?

so ... one of the Ravelry girls did and excellent job making socks on her single bed, I was very impressed with the clean line she got on the join. After "freeing up" the wool from 3o rows front and back. I felt I was onto something.

So... I made an outer Dark Plum strip, with about 10 rows too many in case I mucked up the maths, with a 7:7 count on the 2:2 rib, but put 3 on each end. one for the roll on the font edge and one on the other side for the join (I did a practice piece to work this out too... I did say this vest took six weeks to make, didn't I?)
then made a shaped strip 7:7 wide, again with the 3 sts (on the main bed) on the edge. Now there isn't a lot of room, so I ran a contrast thread for about 30 or so times (60 rows) so I could pick up that bar on the edge easily. The bar is slipped over the last needle every second row, which was easy to see which one while the cast on bar was in the way, I didn't worry about picking up the cast on row, I started with the first bar and pulled out the marking thread as I went. Yes it did take a bit more time, but I did it all in an afternoon and would certainly use this method again, I thought it was an excellent backup for adding a vertical stripe.

Now onto the Sleeve Cap:
join your shoulder seam however you like. I do the 3 needle cast/bind off.
Then I picked up every row, not the 3 of 4 that is usually done, with the Dark Plum and knitted in the pick up row on 3.25 circs (168 sts), then hung them in 2:2.
Start the short rows immediately. (yep, I did they twice to figure this out too). SET both carriages to short row.
(BUT IF I MADE THIS AGAIN I'd start in the middle and work my way outwards).
Easiest way to explain is - do you counting on the ribber:
on the left side, pull the needles up to the 7th group of 2.
knit 1 row, hang a claw weight,
pull up the NEXT needle on the main bed and pull up the same number on the opposite side,
knit 1 row, hang claw weight,
pull up the NEXT needle on the main bed and pull up 3 on the opposite side,
knit 1 row, continue, pulling up 1 on the carriage side and 3 on the opposite until 11 (eleven) groups of 11 (two) have been short rows (row 18)
ROW 19:
watch what you are doing: slowly start to knit, and when you see the LEFT HAND edge of the carriages clear the stitches on hold and are on the bit that hasn't been short rowed, THEN on the LEFT HAND SIDE flip your russell levers to pick up the short rows. BUT if you don't watch what's happening, you can miss collecting them (yep just one of the many redos on this vest).
ROW 20: flip the russell levers on the right side and knit all stitches.
work straight to RC24, change colour to main and knit 6 more rows.
Cast off however you prefer.

Do the other one.

Things I'd do differently on the next one:
buy enough wool.
the front band thinner - make it the same width as the back
on the shoulder do -5, -5 -5 and add two more rows each side on the bands.
Start the short rows on the sleeve caps in the middle, that would be better.

That's it.
My Neverending Big Vest.

Machknit Day 31July10

2010-08-01T13:42:00.003+10:00

Yesterday was a great day at Epping, NSW, for the NSW Machknit group. They have one every year and this one was my first visit.

Bev instructed us on refurbishing a sponge bar for the Japanese machines and later how to dissassemble one to clean and refurbish.

Singer/Silver Reed and Brother standard machines were set up to show various techniques, a Brother garter carriage was chugging away, a Hague linker showing it's clever joining abilities and I was doing a demo of socks on a pinky Passap and daughter was showing how the simple KX350 mid gauge worked.

There was also free and for sale yarns, magazines, and all sorts of doo dads.

She's alsleep on my lap

2010-08-01T11:57:00.002+10:00

Update on my Princess, she's settling down really well. She's asleep on my lap, leaving me enough room to type about her. She's decided to tell me she doesn't like certain food, a big leap for her, she's unfazed by noise, if she's hiding she feels safe and doesn't care. She's taken over my foam block I use to sit at my machine and is happy to sit in the open this morning in the sun, reminded me that I hadn't opened the curtains so she could.

Here is a photo of her upside down having a tummy rub.

She's here!!

2010-07-25T14:12:00.006+10:00

Where to start with my Princess?? Is it just enough to say she's here? Otherwise, this is the whole story:

There are 80 units in my complex, the first two levels have garages, and level 2 garage has a door into the lift vestibule and a long corridor that eventually leads to my front door.

Well I have the world's smallest job: I let tradesman into the building and show them where they need to be working. All sorts, the electricians, our handy man, the tree loppers, you get the idea.

Well, the committee one day said, "Lorna there's kittens in the garages in Level 2".
"Really? Kittens?"
"Yes and their mum. Feral cat and her feral kittens, I've seen them, mother cat with kitten in her mouth - definitely cat and kittens"
"Yeeesss????"
"And you need to get rid of them - you know take them to the pound, that sort of thing - you know, get rid - rid of them"

..OK, rang the pound, who DON'T take feral cat families - no they suggested I catch and release them in the bush (Honestly - They. Did!)
rang the RSPCA - they will take them but are an hour away.
Then I found out there are people who will come and kill them all for me - Honestly who would WANT a job like that??
Then I Googlefooed feral cats, then I rang our strata manager and told him all our options, and asked if I could approach our local vet and see if they would provide veterinary services for us (worm, vaccinate the kittens and treat Mum humanely). Yes he said. Yes she said. Now all to do was warn all our residents to NOT frighten, chase or in any way bother them, until they were big enough to go off to the vets. They had food, water and a toilet, and the kittens were too small to use the exit through the broken louvres, up too high for them. One by one I was able to trap the kittens - all five of them, then Mum, who I'd already christened Princess, she deserved a name, a fabulous mother and a beautiful cat - who hissed and growled at me daily - couldn't fool her - she knew I was about to steal her gorgeous kittens. I cried! I begged the vet nurse to beg the vet to spay Princess and let her go, she's a beautiful cat, a survivor, a champion, fearless and nothing is her fault, she is healthy and deserves to live, she would have been the first kitten to go at a pet shop, a very pretty kitty.

I couldn't bear to think she couldn't be saved. I spoke to many of the residents, some thought my cat whispering skills are a mysterious gift, others commiserated at the cruelty and thoughtlessness that got poor princess into such a position.

Then yesterday came I knock at my door. She's just come back from the vets (annual jabs for her dog) and saw a photo of our kittens and Princess!! they believe she was dumped, some time ago, is about two years old and was social enough to be rehomed.

They have stuffed her full of food, she's twice the size she was when I took her there a couple of weeks ago and she's been jabbed, spayed, de fleaed and really healthy.

Well Princess is in the bathroom, with her food, toilet, blanket and won't come out. I kept her in there with the door shut (that feral cat site was great), door's open, she stepped out and decided she'd seen enough of the world and is back on her blanket, thank you very much, but ain't moving. She purrs when I pat her, I have to close the door or she's too scared to enjoy her food.

So I have a semi-feral cat called Princess living in my bathroom. And Anthea wanted a photo, and I took one without a flash and she moved her head as I was taking it... the.. the... ccccc..ccamera... mmmmmade a noise!!! scary stuff indeed for a reprieved princess!

Now... where did I put that link for a cat bed....

Bag Lady Mitts

2010-07-09T15:48:00.018+10:00

Edit: seeing as someone may want to adapt them, I've put in better instructions.
I used the long tail cast on over the two 4.00mm needles - nice and stretchy.
Cast off very loosely, with the 5.00s or 5.5 if you have them handy, especially if you want to fold back the tops, it's too uncomfortable otherwise.

After the stunning success of the fingertipless gloves, I decided to make a pair with ribbing to cover my fingers, using the same basic pattern. I fiddled around with them a little bit and the wrap and turn short rows really is perfect.

Needles: 4, 4.5 and 5mm
Wool: 2 x 50g ball of 12ply (worsted)
Fits: my big hands 23cm/9" around the knuckes (40 sts) (if you require a smaller size, do 32 or 36sts and rows should work out within a row or so - try them on and adjust as necessary).

If I made them again, I may even do one wrap and turn on the second row:

C/0 40 STS ON 4.00 2:2 RIB 16 rows

Continue on 5.00mm in stst. Knit 1 row.

** optional: put in a short row here:
work to 10 sts w&t; purl 20 sts, w&t, continue knitting in the round, this will be counted in the increases, so increase 1 st as if you were knitting in the round. **

Inc 1 st ev 2nd row 10 times (50 sts). Increased section is on the palm side.

Right: Knit 2 sts on scrap, turn purl 2 sts, knit 2 over the scrap, slip next 10 st on scrap or stitch holder, continue on 40 sts.

Left: 12 sts from your increase ridge, slip 10 sts onto scrap, knit 2, turn, purl 2 on scrap. Knit over 2 scrap stitches, continue on 40 sts.

Work 2 rows

Put marker on little finger side. ie 20 sts from edge.

Next row: knit to 5 sts before marker, Japanese W&T to 5 sts before marker on the other side.

Next row: knit to 10 sts before marker, Japanese W&T to 10 sts before maker on the other side.

Knit one row, picking up the loops from the W&T k2tog then SSK, keeping the loop behind the stitch.

Continue in 2:2 rib on either 4.00 / 4.50 or 5.00, depending on how tight it is preferred. 14 rows on 4.5s.

Thumb: P/U 16, dec 1 st in divide line (ssk/ K2tog) dec ev 2 rows to 13 sts, knit 2 rows, cast off.

And the really nice thing is you can fold them back when you want to do stuff and roll them down to keep warm.

Bag Lady Gloves - Fingertipless Gloves

2010-07-05T14:53:00.011+10:00

Last winter I bought some 12ply Classic wool from Bendigo Woollen Mills back room in 50g balls for fingerless gloves. I started them, they were way, way too big, then by the time I fiddled around with them, I ended up putting them in a plastic bag and chucking them in the too hard basket.

Now winter has returned. It's cold. I'm cold and I have no fingerless gloves in warm wool. Ripped them back and tried trusty Ravelry and found a men's pattern in roughly the right ply - nope it didn't work. I know I'm a large framed person, and honestly men's medium should fit - nope too small. but gave me a good inbetween to aim for... and here they are in all their ripped and redid glory:

2 x 50g 12ply wool
4.00mm needles
5.00mm needles
Patience

C/0 40 STS ON 4.00mm 2:2 RIB, Work 16 rows
Continue on 5.00mm in stst. knit 4 rows.
Inc 1 st ev 2nd row 10 times (50 sts) - palm side, put a marker in but keep the increases in line.

Knit 3 sts on scrap, turn purl 3 sts, and slip the 10 sts increased onto holder. Knit over the scrap, continuing around (40 sts)

Work 4 rows.
My little finger in gloves is always too high, so here's how I solved it:

Little Finger: 8 sts; 8+4; from the needles, add 4 sts in the middle, knit 8 rows or adjust length, cast off.
When restarting, there are 5 or 6 loops to pick up, k2 tog or SSK on each side - 3 sts remain from the little finger.

knit 4 rows.

Ring Finger : 14st 4/3/4 st plus 3 in the middle. Knit 9rows. When rejoining, there will be 4 loops, k2tog on edges. 2 sts remain, cast off.

Middle finger: 16st: 6/2/6/2: Slip the first 6 and last 6 sts plus 2 from ring finger add 2 on, knit 13 rows , cast off.

Index Finger: 14 sts: 12/2: 12 remaining sts plus 2 from middle finger, knit 11 rows, cast off.

Thumb: pick up 16 sts: K2tog or ssk any stray loops picked up on the edges. K2tog (or SSK, to match side increase line), on the first knit round (also the stray loop pickup row - so actual count is 15sts after first round), then ev 2nd row, dec along that line (outside), to 12 sts, work one row, cast off.

Stitch counts:

Cuff: 40sts; 2:2; 16R

Hand, 4R; +1st ev 2R 10x
Little: 12; 8+4; 8R

Ring: 14; 4+3+3+3; 9R

Middle: 16; 6+2+6+2; 13R

Index: 14; 12+2; 11R

Thumb: 16 to 12sts over 8 rows

I've been busy

2010-06-27T18:47:00.003+10:00

I've had a busy couple of weeks. I've finished the scarves and socks for the Jo from Knit for Tibet, there has been an earthquake and people have lost everything, so I said I'd put some things through the machine for her .. and she wanted scarves and socks. All done and posted back to her.

Next, I promised my friend Shelley that I'd make her wedding invites - phew, they are all done, I think there's about 110 of them, should have been 112 but two, umm, invites were harmed in the making of...

Next, some time ago we talked about me making her a shawl for her wedding, so I asked her if she still wanted one, yes she did, so .. straight away she chose the Japanese Feather and Fan, she tried mine on.. fiddled and chose the merino and silk lace yarn I had. Made a start on it, I decided to do a panel each day, easy when you start, and made it easy for me to do the invites. I'm going to have it finished by middle of August - say 15th. That gives me a fall back couple of weeks if the wheels fall off anything.

Just before all this, I started the Pewter Coat from IK Winter 08. I had just finished the Rambling Rose - a beautiful pattern, in two sizes, too small and too big. I had this big bag of Zoomy I got from the Mill shop last year, nowhere to put it of course, so I did the numbers and the small size worked out well with that really thick Zoomy. The lacy pattern really worked well in the thicker yarn, and the short row shoulder idea was fabulous! I ignored the instructions, really no point when the row count was hideously out. I did the turns on the yo, after I'd done the decreases.
Photo to come:

I'm also putting together my new machine table, from Ikea of course, it's a white laminated one, so I'll be able to attach the machine to it properly, this will be wonderful. It was just a bit wider that I thought, but will be just fine. I'm going to put some of my excess furniture in the garage so it's a comfortable fit.

Sooo... that's what I've been up to. Bin busy.

Yoko's First Sock

2010-06-13T13:58:00.004+10:00

Well I've just made a sock on the SK860. I've made so many on the Passap. But. I have been given some 8ply (DK) wool - I think it's Cleckheaton Country 8ply - definitely a mill end/remnant from Wangaratta Mill. Looks a bit thick and I did a quick wrap around the only thing with inches I have - an old tape measure and was 10 wpi not 11, it will not be an easy knit on the Passap. So. Time to learn new things today.

first try:
Cuff:
Cast on 48 - T4/4. 16 rows, drop the ribber one click, then transferred to the ribber and knitted one row. I tried out using the garter bar on one side, and moving them on the next. I don't like using scrap knitting. Next time I'll take them off with the circ and put them back on again, though, the garter bar did work. It's just a bit big. If I think I'll make more, I'll invest in a set of decker combs from that fellow in Germany, they are by far the quickest. NEXT TRY: 48 is too wide (with this wool) so 40 or 44 will be better.
Leg:
Next onto the circular knitting.
Setting: T5/7 - 50R (next do 60) apparently the ribber is two numbers higher than the main bed and looking at the finished sock, it's pretty close. BUT. Oh My Goodness... there is a plastic thingy - a D something something, that you have to slide over the ribber needles before you knit the ribber row every time. EVERY TIME! Reminder to self: It's quicker than knitting by hand... and ... annoying.
Heel:
The short rows were easy enough, on the back/main bed. down to 8 and back worked out nicely. Dropping the ribber one click, changing the plate over and back, adding a weight to the heel, all easy.
Foot:
circ to 80Rows worked out well. measured 15cm/6", moved weights, no problems
Toe:
dec each end, each bed, next and every 4th row count (2nd row) to 12sts.

Take photo .. and before it gets too comfortable - undo the lot and remake with a few more rows before the heel and 4-8 less stitches.

Next one was great:
Cuff: CO 44, T3/3 16R, keep comb and weights on. Trans to ribber. reset. for ribber to knit 2 R T7, undo last quarter (11 sts).
drop bed about 2 clicks, move carriages to end, trans end quarters (11sts) to main bed with garter bar, making sure yarn thread is out of the way (wind it on the mast) Reset RC.

Leg: 69R COL,
Heel: drop ribber 1 click, change plates and settings for short rows down to 8 and back. Reset RC.

Foot: change plate and setting for circ, 80R

Toe: dec 1 sts each end, both beds every 2nd row (4RC) to 10 sts.

Graft toe, sew cuff.

Make another one.

Bergere de France pattern 289 - Blouson Zippe

2010-05-07T11:28:00.008+10:00

Well most know I love these patterns, especially the MK logo AND the little bit that says (TYPE C = 7) which is especially for Passap. I loves them so much, I'm going to put in some links:

Old patterns: and you can see the lovely logo that looks like a bridge? followed by: Ce modèle peut être réalisé sur une machine à tricoter familiale, means you can chuck them on your standard machine and use
this list to see which machine is which letter machine and
this list for what the abbreviations mean. And just as a sweetener, here is a list of
French to English knitting terms. There you are then, everything you need to know and see why they are just the best thing on the net for all knitters, especially MKers.

And there is the tricotheque for the latest free pattens for the ladies.. Now I know what you are thinking - but, it's in French... Never fear all patterns more or less say the same thing, don't they? anyways as per the Pirates Code - they are more guidelines. And to make you feel really better, here's a bit from my Blouson Zippe...

Here are the instructions from the Right Front:

Emmanchure et épaule : Rab. à gauche comme au dos.

And what does it all mean?

Armhole and shoulder shaping - do what you did on the back.

And the left front? Yep - do what you did on the right one but in reverse... Seriously, go look for yourself! The row count is all there, for you to stop.. do your shaping .. easy as. I usually don't bother to translate if there's a graph and a schematic. Just the rows and numbers. I took a photo of the working notes - all the numbers of stitches and rows.

Now here's my dilemma: I've done the sleeves, back and right front, and now I think it would have been better to use the size lower on the back bed to pull in on the ribbing sections.. Oh deary me, what I've decided to do is the left front that way to see if it's better and if it is - redo the back and right front. I've left this for over a week now while I have a think.

I made my two Panda Cotton socks instead. I'm more inclined to do one project at a time, I'm not so good if I have too many things on the go at once... So... I'll edit in what I decide.

Scarf Day Afternoon

2010-03-01T13:21:00.004+11:00

So ... what did I do yesterday afternoon you ask? All my Ravelympics2010 projects have been done. It's Sunday. There's nothing on TV, they've taken the 'Lympics off. No Cricket. Nothing but It's me or the Dog. So. I thought Hello Miss Pinky, you watching the naughty dog show? How about we yet again tackle that pile of scarf yarn and see how many you can churn out in a couple of hours. But we will stop when the Gremlins arrive, like the last time when I got two out before they interrupted us, OK? righto.. off we went for our Scarf Day Afternoon.

Chug, chug, 4pm came, stop for coffee and change chanels to find some Castle I'd recorded earlier. Coffee gone, scarves spitting out like Pinggu's machine. Still no gremlins. keep going .. find some more (will this stuff never end?) put it through, STILL only 4.50. Pack Miss Pinky up and start separating them, casting off both ends, just in time for me to watch Biggest Loser.. and here they are:

Yoko's Rose Jumper

2010-02-26T20:10:00.003+11:00

I decided to make a jumper on Yoko and put a rose on it from the electronics.

Here is my pattern for the SK860. I did decided to do the ribbing on the Passap, but that's me.

Back:
Rib CO 116
20R: RC000
T5 -1 ev 10R to 104st
-> RC74
+ 1 ev 6R to 114st
-> RC 134, RC000
Armhole shaping
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 7 82St
-> RC 78
Shape shoulder
-8 ea end x 6 46sts
24/38/24

Front:
Rib CO 116
20R: RC000
T5 -1 ev 10R to 104st
-> RC74
+ 1 ev 6R to 114st
-> RC 124: START MOTIF
-> RC 134, RC000

Armhole shaping
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 7 82St
work to end of motif, do 2 rows
divi: 24/-6/22/-6/26
put 22 on holder and leave the other 30 on hold
-1st NE ev 4thR to 24st (RC58)

Shoulder shaping
-> RC 78
-8 armhole edge x 3 (6R) Cast or I prefer short rows and 3 needle bind off for the shoulder seam)

Sleeves:
Rib CO 48, 20R
RC000
T5 + 1 ev 6R to 94st
-> RC 156, RC000

Sleeve cap
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 18 42St
-1 ea end x 15 12sts

Branching Out Machine Knit (BOMK) Bag

2010-02-17T19:42:00.012+11:00

BOMK Bag
Ok here are my machine instructions for the Felted bag Branching out, which can be found on the Lion Brand site. You can find the chart and original instructions there.

I used a single bed machine, garter bar and a two prong tool and a mid gauge machine.
I used Nundle 8ply wool, which would be similar enough to American 10ply, to substitute that.
I transferred the chart to the paper for my EC1 electronic reader. Any pattern you like could work
I used T6 on my SK860

Cast on 63 sts on ravel cord. Stitch requirements: 2/59/2 sts (2 stitches must be each side of your pattern).
Garter Bar: 20 rows garter stich.
put the 2rd stitch onto the 3rd both ends and keep these stitches in work.
knit straight for 30 rows
do chart - 26 rows
knit straight for 16 rows.
Put the 4th st on the 5th, each end (I put the 3rd onto the 4th, but I think one more across would be better)
The divide for the next row: 22/..19.. /22 put the 22s on hold, knit 2 rows on 19 sts only on waste yarn (for your handle, go bigger if you like)
Garter Bar: 14 rows, garter stitch.
you can cast off you you like, or take off onto circs, or waste. If casting off, drop 2nd stitch each end.

Next bit:
pick up 63 stitches from the ravel cord on the first bit and do this side of the bag the same BUT REMEMBER TO put your 2ND OVER TO THE 3RD, and keep it in WP.

Sides, do both sides the same:
pick up 10 sts, straight to 72rows (no need to put your 2nd st onto 3rd, as it drops down to the edge)
Dec 3rd or 4th sts to the inside, both side (8sts)
Garter Bar: 14 rows, garter stitch.

Drop the second stitch from the end on all four pieces.

The really nice side pieces were done straight out of Susan Guagliumi's Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters. Here is her website. Ch. 6, 97 Vertical Ladder Seam

How I interpreted her instructions was to:
with a crochet hook, I picked up 5 stitches, on the bottom of stitch 3, bottom on the dropped stitch, for the middle one, there was a nice little V between the sides, then the same on the other piece, giving me 5 stitches.
**Then 5 rows, (actually it worked out to be 6 rows on the very first one only)
Carriage on R. on the left, pick up the first 4 dropped loops and put them behind the last two stitches (for a more detailed explanation, please see HMS4MKers book).
knit one row
Carriage on L. On the right, pick up the first 4 dropped loops and put them behind the last 2 sts.
repeat from ** all the way up to the top.

Then I cast off the entire top in the camel colour.

Ravelympics 2010

2010-02-12T22:55:00.013+11:00

Ravelympics has it's first machine event. Very exciting for us who are participating. Lookie what I got: My captain's medal. How exciting!

On Yoko:
a Branching Out machine bag, I'm doing the fair isle exactly as written, but really thing that sewing the thing all the way through the middle is well.. dopey. I've blogged my BOMK.

the Rose motif jumper, I've blogged the pattern.

On Miss Pinky:

332m - Ankle socks for me and I made another pair in Graphite.

1668m in a Baby blanket out of the garage find

the vintage top from Passap book 10 1664

see the prev post, I've made proper notes

Here's some scarves I did on Sunday afternoon.

From the frog pond:
the CPH that went from disaster to disaster. undoing the lot, winding it on the swift, washing it and rewinding it so it can be revitalised into something I'll use.

Vintage Knitting: Passap Book 10 - 1664

2010-02-05T17:56:00.008+11:00

Well, I wanted to make this vintage jumper from an old Passap Pattern book. It was published in 1969. It's out of print. The company that makes Passaps is out of business. They stopped making my passap in the late 70s. But on the off chance that someone decides to buy their back catalogue and publish them again.. complete with models smoking in two of the photos, I've included the schematic from the book, not that it CAN be made as written, it didn't even fit the model, as clearly seen in the photo..

Now this is my attempts at modernising the design, making mine with more ease.

The original Schematic is for a narrow hipped, ample front, short arms and body and just to cap it all off, the armhole drop is perfect, lots of room for my big shoulders as you can see in the photo, but back on point, as to whom this garment was intended? Perhaps a female impersonator with padded bra? I would have said preteen with padded bra, had it not been for the massive shoulder allowance! nevermind. I can use that!

I had a bit of an epiphany, it's for the putting over the top of those massive shoulder pads that came in the 80s, a decade before they are "in", here we can put our SydneyOperaHouse sized shoulder pads, and have a perfect fit. Or be me and have big bones to go around...

I want to keep the elements of the design, the shoulder seam extending down the back, waist shaping and in the front there is a bust dart over 6 rows for me to put in.

Here's how I made mine, but if you are going to attempt it, I suggest getting out the tape measure and do some serious adjustments of your own:

3 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 4ply Cotton in Damask Rose.

Miss Pinky is doing the honours:
St st: T5: 28st/45R = 10cm
Tubular: T4.75
2:2 (ind rib) T2.75

The design starts with tubular caston needles are divided for 2:2 ind rib, needles are brought up into WP again for more tubular rows, then transferred to back bed for stocking stitch. Decreases are done using 3 prong tool for fully fashioned finish. I'm keeping the basic elements of the design, with additional width added to the hips, body sleeves.

Back
CO 152
T4.75, O 7R = this must be 14RC in total
T4, divi up for 11.11 rib 20R
T4.75 bring . needles back into WP, O 7R = 14RC in total
transfer all stitches to back bed for stst. RC000. NOW do side decreases.

T5: Dec 1 st each end ev 4th row, to RC76 (118st)
-> to RC90. RCOOO
+1 each end ev 10R (start at R5) x 5 to 138st (RC50)*** (work front to here)
-> RC100. RC000

-9st next 2 rows
-1 ea end ev 2nd R 6X RC12 108st. RC000
-1 ea end ev 4th R 23X RC56/92st.
-> 58RC, RC000
-1 ea end ev 2ndR 12X, RC48/44sts
44sts remain

Front
Work as for back to *** here.
-> RC98
Work bust darts over next 6RC,
get the pushers out -10st short rows each end over the next 6 rows, (BX)
knit up to the 106RC (but only 2 will have been worked on the edge)RC000

-3 ea end 3 x (9sts each end gone)
At armhole edge: +1st ev 5th R 12x
AT SAME TIME
at Neck edge: straight to RC 16
-11,
-9
then -1st N/E ev 5R (hopefully it will be the same 5 row count as the armhole - could it be too much to ask for I wonder?)

Sleeves
CO 58
T4.75, O 7R = this must be 14RC in total
T2.75, divi up for 11.11 rib 20R
T4.75 bring . needles back into WP, O 7R = 14RC in total
transfer all stitches to back bed for stst. RC000.

T5: + 1 st each end ev 6th row, 27 times to RC162 (112st)
-> to RC200. RCOOO

-9st next 2 rows
-1 ea end ev 2nd R 20X RC50/56st.
-1 ea end ev R 10X, RC60/16sts
16sts remain

Neckband
CO 106 tub (each bed)
work rib
take off on waste yarn.

2:2 ewrap Cast On

2010-02-02T13:03:00.004+11:00

Working around the gate pegs was a difficult thing for me.

So here's what I did:

I covered the pegs with black
poster hangers.

This enabled me to wind all along the needles
without catching the pegs.

The plastic doesn't have to cover the pegs
after you have wrapped them
that makes it easier to move it along
and keep the pegs covered.

And here it is ready to do the stocking stitch.
2 stitches from the ribber to one on the front bed.
Even though it loops off the comb, it stretches out beautifully.

My working Notes for Yoko - Sk860

2010-01-22T06:40:00.007+11:00

Settled on a name: Yoko it is.

Working Notes:
I'm working my way through the manuals and experimenting

Cast on:
Got it to cast on, definitely not the nicest, but will follow Ileen's (of Needlenook, Missouri) advice and use crochet or ewrap. the quick weave in one for single bed will work v well for any I want to fold over.

Samples:
Ribbed scarf, 10ply, caston, rib.

Electronics:
Two colours:
Working out the foibles. The second half of the swatch was definitely better. This one was at T6, using Bendigo Harmony and the second swatch done. Harmony 8ply, T7, 6, 5, single motif, 2 colours. Getting used to using the electronics, but will need a little more practice to get a good result, which is all it takes really.

Writing up my own sheet:
I copied out the Branching Out pattern for my bag for the Ravelympics. It only picked up the heavier drawn squares, the missed the lighter one. will need another check. did an undo and wind back 2 rows, which worked out ok. Check the sheet and make sure it is shiny.

Using the Garter Bar:
With a bit of practice I definitely got better at it. It rolls across the top very well, only managed to drop the beastly thing once.

Punch Lace:

Tuck Stitch:

Double bed Jacquard:

Socks:

Hello World I'm going to learn to use my SK860 today

2010-01-15T08:50:00.002+11:00

I'm going to close the lid, I'm going to lock the door, not answer the phone. I'm not here. I'm having a chat with the SK860, we will speak of our many issues. Why don't you want to cast on properly, why don't you want to knit me a duck, why do you have go many things I don't understand? We will agree on a name. We will knit me something. Today. And just for spite, we are going to watch the cricket too, all day, until we do.

Crochet over Stocking Stitch Edging

2009-12-11T07:27:00.018+11:00

I've done the Crochet style hem, described in Susan Guagliumi's book Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters, page 46; Chapter 2. 10: Alternative Crochet Cast on. Please refer to the book for further details.

The method I used to do the neck isn't covered in the book and this is what I worked out to best match the hem.

Of course I could have tried to put it back onto the machine and managed it that way, but getting the V neck right is way above my ability.

How I Pick Up Neck Stitches: (Just read this bit)
Pick up stitches from the saved ones on the back - I don't cast them off; pick up stitches along the neckline - I do two of the little loops and then the big loop in the middle , ie every third is the big loop, that's my method of picking up neck stitches.

I use knit pics or pro as they are called now, with a 5.00 on the right end and 3.00 on the left end, and a 5.00mm crochet hook.

This is what I did:
Before I picked up the front neck stitches, I did a row of crochet between the stitches on the holder,
I "park" the last loop from the crochet round on the knitting needle,
but could have a stitch marker or scrap of yarn to stop it unravelling,
then picked up and knitted the front edge stitches and knitted across the back,
one round completed.

Photos:
Doing the knit one round:
Picking up the last "parked" crochet loop from the prev crochet round.
putting the loop from the prev crochet round onto the hook:

Crocheting between the stitches knitted on the previous knit row, having the thinner needle and cable make it a lot easier, it also works with the 5.00 end, but it's a lot tighter.

Doing the crochet one round between each stitch on the cable cord:The pick up round is a bit untidy so I did another round into it when I've finished the other.When I finished the neck band I went back and filled in the gaps with another line of crochet stitches, I think it looks better:
I decided to make the V a feature, so I made a centre stitch from the tail, crocheted behind it on that round with one chain behind it so it didn't pull. Every second round I did 3 together... umm. put 2 togther onto the right needle and picked the third behind it and knitted off all 3 tog.

Hopefully, I haven't forgotten anything, (I'll come back and edit anything I've messed up)!

A Gathering of Gathered Jumpers

2009-12-09T19:45:00.008+11:00

Sooo... I made myself a long awaited Gathered Pullover on my KX350. Experimented with different techniques and I've had a lot of admiring. It was an easy knit. Really! Mostly done on the machine, with about 40 rows of the panel done on 5.00mm needles.

Well my friend Shelley decided that she Must Have one too, and would I make her one and would I accept some Bendi Harmony as payment. Why yes I do believe I would!

Sooo.. daughter #2 came to visit last weekend, bringing her delightful newish boyf, her knitting, HIS knitting, they were making laptop covers intending to felt them. Well the boyf had already mastered a ribbed beanie on the Passap and wore his beanie all winter. Now he decided to knit his laptop cover on the Plastic Fantastic. Of course I had Shelley's half made Gathered Pullover along with mine for reference. She loved the jumper, tried mine on - of course too big and to long, but none the less, could I make her one too?

She hasn't asked me to knit her a jumper before so I thought I'd be nice and do one for her too.

Here is a picture of the front, and below it is being put back onto the machine, ready to knit the rest of the front. there isn't very much difference between T5 and the 5.00 mm needles I knitted the motif on.

Here is the photo of the neck band, which I get asked about a lot: seen is it's original, as written curling stocking stitch neck, with the crochet between each stitch being done. It's a single crochet, on a 5.00mm hook.

Adventures into Felting

2009-12-08T17:47:00.004+11:00

My daughter is felting and here are her notes:

So all felted. Worked rather well although I did learn that top loaders don’t felt too well at all but front loaders love it! We chucked them in with some towels (so as to not waste water) at t’s place and they came out a treat. The one he did didn’t felt too well cos it is actually an acrylic blend…. So the dark blue bit was good but the other bit didn’t felt so much, might try chucking it in the dryer and see what happens to it. Mine turned out well but the highlights I did in the acrylic are quite thin so I’m considering going over them in either the dark wool or maybe just in the same colour to make it a bit thicker. I think that will work better. Also have to felt my handles cos forgot to knit some of them.

Also for future reference is that the wool shrinks more row wise than it does stitch wise so it gets shorter than it gets skinnier if you know what I mean so that is a good thing to keep in mind next time so you need to leave an extra 2 inches on the top (I left 1 inch) and leave one inch each side.

I think probably better if you do flowers separately and put them through the wash unattached to the bag. I have to make a few for mine. Cos have LOTS of ideas on things we can do. I'm happy to come help make them when I come down for my mini holiday. Not sure yet if T will come to, will depend on how the fire season is going.

Further adventures into felting will follow........

Passap Baby Blanket

2009-12-02T22:21:00.004+11:00

I used Bendigo Woollen Mills, Luxury 4ply Baby Wool to make a double sided baby blanket. One side shows white vertical stripes and the other horizontal alternating stripes.

1 each 3 colours, but didn't use all of the 200g balls.

Pattern from the little purple Passap Design booklet # 84
1:1 division, 141 sts, (EON ie L69, R70) NOTE: BB has extra needle on RIGHT.

Caston Col 1, T3, N/N, 1R; T5, CX/CX, 2R; T5, 1R N/N
T5, N/N,
2R white
2R green
2R white RC000
Begin pattern:
2 rows N/AX col 2
2 rows N/N col 1
2 rows N/AX col 3
2 rows N/N col 1
repeat
I did about 62 repeats, 496R, but I did another Col 1 and ended with Col 2
then
2R white
2R green
2R white
2R lavender.
Cast off loosely
( I did K1, ** P1, P2tog Tbl, k1 K2tog tbl ** repeat to end.)
Block out to relax the rib, I lightly pressed under a damp cloth.

Passap Baby Leggings Pattern

2009-11-29T09:12:00.008+11:00

Size: about 6mths
Wool: Bendigo Luxury 4ply
Tension: 28S/40R = 10cm

I used the schematic from Drops as a numbers base, sort of. Take a look for a different size, change the rib/body numbers to suit your design. Daughter of mine is doing the finishing and this is what I did:

Waist:
T3.5, 2:2, C/O 84 x 2 (168 sts).
18R, do eyelets (put one of the 2s on the other one, leave the needles in work)
20R
flip the front bed to the back, (change colour)

Body:
T6, 2rows, put side quarters (42sts) to the FB, RC000.
CX/CX, 80R
Divi up: 35/14/35 both beds.
put the 14 centres sts onto scrap.
put the left leg 70 (35 FB/35BB) onto deckers. RC000.

Right Leg:
work on 70sts
CX/CX, Dec 2 sts (1 each bed) inside leg side ev 8 rows to RC88 (24 sts remain)
straight to RC96. take off the machine with deckers and;

Do the other leg the same.

Now for choice:
I took the legs off, put onto cables and Loz will knit s 2:2 rib in contrast.
Up to everyone what they do next:
? change colour
knit in rib/garter sts by hand.
do the rib/garter stitch on the machine and graft it.

Working Bendi Harmony on the KX 350

2009-10-21T18:04:00.011+11:00

Working Notes on the 350 with Harmony cotton blend.

Bendigo Woollen Mills Harmony 8ply
Swatched shown is:
Crocheted edge with latch tool
T6 40R : 18S & 32R /10cm
T5 20R : 20S & 30R /10cm
T4 20R : 22S & 28R /10cm

I wanted to try the crocheted edge as described in Susan Guaglium's Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters: 5.00mm crochet hook worked best. The latch tool was too tight and uneven.

I'm making Gathered Pullover from IK Winter 07, but flat not in the round. The beginning of the pattern says: This sweater is worked in a much larger gauge than the yarn calls for to create a fabric with drape and fluidity.

With that in mind, I went with the T5, almost the same tension as the original design. The crocheted edge, a little bit of shaping and the cable panel will add a little bit of interest while I learn how to use the machine.

Notes for the Back
Cast on 100, 6 crocheted back rows, straight for a bit, dec 1 st each side every 4th row, about 30 rows straight, inc 1 st each side every 6th row, but to 98 sts, work straight till 40cm, work armhole shaping, taking off the extra side stitch, do the decreases as written, work 64 rows, do shortrow shaping for the shoulders: hold 5 sts each end till 20 are held each side, work rows to have one complete row taken off the machine.

Notes for the Sleeves:
CO 50, 6 crochet back rows, T5, inc ev 8 rows to 78. to RC 150, dec as written but with a few more rows in the cap, 50 incl last rows T10, which I used to cast off.

Notes for the Front.
Work as for back to RC76, where the fun started. Ok I tried to do the cables, where more experienced machiners would know better. I managed one. the came to a grinding (yes literally grinding) halt. So, off the machine it came, to see what I could do. I was all set to rip it back and redesign a simple panel - however I really liked the single cable and partial second cross I'd managed before the wheels fell of (Ok no they didn't but there was some groaning). The Plan was to knit up the panel, but with an extra stitch at the end of the panel have a purl though the whole motif, put it back on the machine knit up both sides, combine and keep going. however... the 5.00mm needles work so well, no noticeable difference between where the machine stopped and I started, so I knitted the motif on the 5.00s. The other thing I changed was to start the neck divide after the armhole shaping had been completed.

Neckband notes:
Decided to put the crotched edge around the neck. Using 5.00mm circs, picked up the stitches and knitted 4 rounds in total, on the centre front I did 3 tog each round. I put rows of crochet through the pick up row and the next 3 rows. The one on top of the pick up round was done after the event, but the other rows were done between the stitches on the circ cable, which was much quicker, but the next row was a bit tight but doable. Cast off normally.

Things I learnt:

it's easier to use than the Passap
taking off the machine with a small circ needle, fixing the problem works best
I can't use the latch tool and get an even stitch.
picking up stitches to rehanging is very easy
the cast on comb and claw weights are excellent and doesn't need any other weight.
not to lean on the plastic machine
make sure that the yarn doesn't get out of position when doing short rows - or it ends up in a heap on the floor.
when you flip the H lever cam thingy to N, it just knits up all the stitches without me having to put them back on the hooks, love this feature.
when ripping back, put the undone stuff in a pile and put it through the second whisker until it's taken it all back up again, then unthread and off we go. saves heaps of time.
T10 on the last row them crochet off make an excellent cast off.
You can't do more than one set of 4x4 cables and only just do one at that.
I don't think this machine has been used before.

Very happy with the first thing I made on this quiet little achiever.

My "New" Knitting Machine is Here

2009-10-19T17:59:00.003+11:00

It took it's time to come by road from Perth, and arrived in excellent condition, not a problem at all with transporting the complete width of the country.

and this is the ta da:

It's a Brother KX350, a plastic mid gauge hobby machine, which will knit slubby, novelty yarn into lovely scarves and toys. It's a flat bed, no ribber, can do tuck stitch and two colours but must be selected by hand. I would really love an electronic Silver Reed SK-860, but we will see how things go on this one first. Maybe the combo and this and my Passap will be plenty.

I'm looking forward to seeing what else I can create on it.

Sunday Knits and WIP Wednesday

2009-10-04T21:35:00.004+11:00

It's been a busy week. One of my Rav groups (Stash Knit Down) encourages us hoarders to stop buying and knit from stash, with a variety of threads with ideas to motivate, challenge and generally provide support for those of us with SABLE - Stash Accumulated Beyond Life Expectancy - and take some steps to reduce it to a more sane level. It's been a big help for me. I'm full - I simply have no more room to put any more stash. It's overflowed to that big box I'm working my way through.

Back to the point. One of the girls has a WIP Wednesday, every Wednesday, where she works on her most completed project - all day. Not as a punishment, but a discipline technique that I thought I could use. I decided that I liked that idea. A lot. So last Wednesday, I picked the last sleeve on up my Bannisters Jumper, which I started way back in April 2008 and knit to the armhole, a bit more than 40 rows. I did! Flushed with success, I then cut back my Rav time and knit for at least 30 minutes on it everyday, surprise - I finished it yesterday. All I need to do is sew in both sleeves, an excellent WIP Wednesday project.

Which brings me to Sundays. I'm usually home. Family have other things to do, mostly anyways. So I was looking at projects, tele, knitting, reading a magazine article on sleeve caps, did a test knit (swatch) on some BMW Harmony, and had another idea. Why can't I START a new project on Sunday. I'm usually just sitting around, how about I make a Start a knit Sunday, one that I need to work out. Get that little thing done, you know, the one that is: gee I can't start that until I figure out this bit first. Take some quiet time to get one of those darn projects out of the box, onto the needles and get that box emptied.

So that's the plan.

This week I've:
finished Dave's heel flap socks on the machine.
finished knitting the Bannisters
done up to the 3rd repeat on the MHC
done up to the armholes? gotta check? on the mohair.

Next Wednesday:
sew up Bannister sleeves, take it's photo.
take a look at the mohair and work out what needs to be done.

Rest of the week:
work on MHC
KM: do some socks to take to the October 16th MK meeting
KM: work on the machined vest

Next Sunday:
Pick something out of the box and start it.

My Computer is Here

2009-09-23T06:33:00.008+10:00

I am so happy! Anth arranged the whole thing for me and volunteered after she said "just go on line and check" - oh, no computer, no on line! I suspected that my lappy was on it's last legs and had backed up all my files the week before and spent yesterday retreaving files, loading printer drivers, patches and so on, photos I'd taken of my projects, (finding where they hid the games). Then caught up with emails and Rav posts.

In the meantime Loz kindly lent me her dodgy old Think Pad (on dial up). The poor thing couldn't recognise anything on the E drive, although it knew it had been plugged in. I didn't even try to open my IK PDF CDs that I bought. I decided to pick up one of the MANY magazines I have, choose one I had allocated the week before. I had gone through my stash and allocated patterns to yarns, put them in a big box and decided that my job until the end of the year was to get as much of it knitted as possible.

I finished my Provincial Waistcoat but didn't find any buttons I liked in Lincraft. I'm going to help Loz move tomorrow - OK it's driving her from her old place to her new place and watch men move the boxes - that's helping, isn't it? anyways - on the way home I'm going to see what Spotties have.

I bought that Fabulous Vogue Knitting Holiday 2004 mag from Debbie in USA, I made the #20 Cable and Rib Bluey out of it. Well the #3 hoodie is lovely, with the worst photo ever taken to spoil a nice design, there's a few of them in Vogue let's be honest. The bag of blue mohair 12ply from BMW back room is being transmogrified - OK knitted - into #3 - an easy knit on 6.00 mms. I knitted the pockets onto the fronts, then picked up the body from the back of their loops, then when I'd knitted up to the top of the pockets, then knitted them to the body, 3 needle bind off style, but without changing to bigger needles, of course.

And I made a start on Must Have Cardi in BMW Rustic 8ply - Elm, but doing the body in the round to the armholes, and resizing for thinner wool - cast on 232sts. The only thing I changed this time was to mirror the cables, otherwise just the extra stitches added to the side pieces. It's a little bit fancier than I'd usually make, but it doesn't hurt to have one in the wardrobe.

Now I have my internet, project notes and old files back, I can finish the Bannister jumper, fire up the KM and do some of the the projects I've allocated for it.

Ode to an Ancient Mariner - always a good tale - aka Sue Cubed

2009-09-01T14:20:00.009+10:00

It started last week. No, no, a couple of weeks before....

We Aussie Ravelers in the Bendigo Woollen Mills group.. had a bit of an epiphany - why not get together a co-op, whereby one person buys one ball of all of the new colours in their Luxury 8ply range, chop them up equally and redistribute to the coop group; then of course Sandy in Queensland thought a Rustic 8ply one would be the go and of course we all wanted all the samples they had in stock, not just on their colour card.

When mine arrived I played, I knitted, I undid, I decided that their Mariner was outstandingly wonderful. There was talk on the boards that they had plenty of the discontinued colours, so far no dramas, a few discussions were had on how nice the colours and so on. So I ordered my Mariner over the internet on Wednesday - all good - then last Friday I got a call. Nope they had none left - Nope, none in the back room, nope not one ball to be had. I was devastated!

Next was onto the boards to beg and plead. No luck. Then onto stalking people who had already bought some to see if they could be persuaded to part with any - nope, but then Sue W from Victoria had 2 and a little bit.. enough for a vest. I thought Provincial Waistcoat would look stunning in it. However I did approach a few more havers in their stashers.. Nope. Just one more ball would get sleeves.. Nope.

But I had the very best news this morning. Another Sue from Victoria has 4 and a little bit balls and was happy to send them on their way to me for a contribution to her paypal account.

There's more: I had a pm from ANOTHER Sue, who has half a ball what Sue W had sent her so she could finish her project.. NO joke - a well travelled bit of wool that! Now three Sues, all from Victoria and all have sent me their stash for money or swap..

When they get here, I shall take their picture and show everyone what a truly gorgeous colour it is and I'm so sorry they are discontinuing it.

Here ends my tale of love, loss, betrayal, false promises, forlorn search, stalking, rejection only to end in love found - all the best stories have those elements so I thought I'd share mine.

And special thank you to the three Sues: Sue W, Sue G and Sue RA, from Victoria, for supplying me with a happy ending.

End of August already

2009-08-30T15:38:00.009+10:00

Well. I've been sort of busy. I've finished my lovely cabled jacket and wore it out the other day. Here is my youngest daughter modelling it for me so I could take the photo. I had put a buttonhole in the top, but having worn it for a couple of times, I decided to undo the first couple of stitches, dropped down and reknitted them closed.

Then there was the mammoth job of doing the short row skirt for my eldest. Oh lordy, what a nasty job that was.

Here it is, just before I took it off the machine. Done in 3 colours, 2 rows of black between short rows of Silver Twist and Dark Plum Bendi Classic 5ply. She wants to do the finishing herself. It turned out to be an entire circle, I'll put it's fuzzy photo on the end of the post.

The continental is going well enough to keep it for Saturday's SnB knit. It's not quicker, but have done up to the arms of the body, started the sleeves in round. I don't mind leaving it on the slow burner, it's good to have an easy knit.

Next on my agenda is to do the last bit on my Bannister jumper and work on the machine vest in a bigger stitch size. The last one was wonderful, but stiff as a board!

The Continental - tra la la la

2009-08-09T18:25:00.004+10:00

After more than 30 years of contemplation and procrastination, I've finally decided it's about time to bite the bullet and learn to do the German or continental knitting technique. I've fiddled around with it over the years and have quickly given it the flick. Well yesterday I fished out that bag of 10 x 100g Patons Shadow Tweed that I got cheap at Wang last month (5.5 and 6.5 needles) and off to the practice patch for a bit. I'm doing Emerald from knitty.com, a simple enough, stocking stitch mostly, project to practice on.

OK, I know, I WAS supposed to be sewing up Bluey, the cables and rib cardi - but who really likes sewing up? Me either! I've done some of it, really I have - ends woven in and all, on the collar, shoulders and sleeves are done and tidy- only both sides to go - see?

So this week in Lorna Land I'm going to

finish sewing up bluey, (only two long long loooonngg sleeves/sides ... sob sob!);
get good at continental, oddly enough I'm finding the purl easier - but I did practice it a lot yesterday - whilst all the time ignoring the pain of both these activities.
and finally, I want to get cracking on the Passap, get my vest done on the looser tension (OH NO, more sewing up... more sobs all week it looks like!); then get Loz's skirt swatched, write up the notes and get it done for her. She was coming over to help do it, but has now landed herself a 5 day job, much better then the 3 days she was doing, so it needs to be done and outta here. Hopefully get these two things off the machine, I don't even mind if the sewing up spills over to next week (is lying on the blog bad??).

So that's it for this week's plans. Now time to watch Aussie idol for a couple of hours and choose which painful activity to do - sew up or knit 142 sts 2:2 rib using continental. My head will probably just fall off by the end of the week and save me.

Racked Rib Vest Pattern - Working Notes

2009-07-28T13:42:00.012+10:00

Pattern incomplete - still working on it
Back:
C/O 2:2 rib, handle up, FB= 74R:74L, every 3rd needle down, arrange the back bed to match up.
I've been experimenting with the cast on for this rib and this one is:
Attach a weight to the loose end (padlock in my case)
Set needles, blue strippers, rack once left, T2, N/N knit one row,
Change: T4, CX/CX knit one row, set left edge weight (I use yellow/green latch tool with padlock over 2 needles' stitches) knit another row, lock is now at the left (RC3).
Change: rack once right, N/N, carefully knit one row, it will be tight, but goes through. RC000, knit 30 rows.
Change: T5, black strippers.
Rearrange ribs: starting at the centre, 3L:3R have to be on the front bed. 3,2L should be in place, move 1,2R with yellow tool to 2,3R, move 2 stitches from back bed to 1L,1R.
Next move the next 2 FB stitches, one pair each side of your new 6 st set, into the single space on the back bed (new 5 stitch group BB). Continue until you have 6:5 rib all the way, DO THE SAME THING all the way along the front bed. There is an overlap on the same side of the rib configuration, take a good look at which side overlaps (should be on the right) as you will be racking one turn the other way to make an overlap on the other side of the rib on rows 3&4.

The pattern:
Work 2 rows, rack left once, work 2 rows, rack right once. That's all there is to do for the next 150 rows. (except I'm using 50g balls and have to do a couple of joins): I didn't bother with waist shaping, as the ribs should do that for me - not caring if it doesn't either!

Armhole shaping: RC000
Dec sequence, COUNT NEEDLES ON THE FRONT BED, absorb the extra overlap st where it occurs:
-10st x 1 ev 2R (20 st total)
-2 st x 2 ev 2R (4 sts total)
-1 st x 7 ev 2R (10 sts total)
continue to RC 98

Shoulder shaping:
You can do short row shaping if you like OR you can decrease straight from the machine OR you can put them on scrap/decker combs and do a 3 needle cast/bind off. Take your pick.
Dec sequence, COUNT NEEDLES ON THE FRONT BED, absorb the extra overlap st where it occurs:
-6 st x 4 ev 2R
50 sts remaining for neckband.

Left Front:
T4, N/N 2:2 industrial rib, handle down, blue strippers, (+1 FB) L36 / R35 (+1 BB), cast on same of for back, then 30R. RC000.
Change: T5, black strippers.
Rearrange ribs: starting at the right on the front bed. Move 1st and 2nd stitch one needle to the right with yellow tool move 2 stitches from back bed to gap.
Next move the next 2 FB stitches, one pair each side of your new 5 st set, into the single space on the back bed (new 5 stitch group BB). Continue until you have 6:5 rib all the way; the 6 will be on the front bed on the right and the 5 purls will be on the back bed on the left (neck edge), DO THE SAME THING all the way along the front bed. There is an overlap on the same side of the rib configuration, take a good look at which side overlaps (should be on the right) as you will be racking one turn the other way to make an overlap on the other side of the rib on rows every 2nd row. Continue to RC 150.

Armhole and neck shaping: RC000
Dec sequence, COUNT NEEDLES ON THE FRONT BED, absorb the extra overlap st where it occurs: Neck and armhole decreases occur at the same time, the armhole edge is every 2nd row, and the neck every 4th.
Armhole:
-10st x 1 ev 2R (20 st total)
-2 st x 2 ev 2R (4 sts total)
-1 st x 7 ev 2R (10 sts total)
Neck:
-1st x 24, ev 4th row
continue to RC 98

Shoulder shaping:
You can do short row shaping if you like OR you can decrease straight from the machine OR you can put them on scrap/decker combs and do a 3 needle cast/bind off. Take your pick.
Dec sequence, COUNT NEEDLES ON THE FRONT BED, absorb the extra overlap st where it occurs, starting on the armhole edge:
-6 st x 4 ev 2R.

Right Front:
T4, N/N 2:2 industrial rib, handle down, blue strippers, (+1 FB) L36 / R35 (+1 BB), cast on same of for back, then 30R. RC000.
Change: T5, black strippers.
Rearrange ribs: starting at the left on the front bed. Move 1st and 2nd stitch one needle to the left with yellow tool move 2 stitches from back bed to gap.
Next move the next 2 FB stitches, one pair each side of your new 5 st set, into the single space on the back bed (new 5 stitch group BB). Continue until you have rib all the way (from left to right FB has the 6 of the 6:5 and 5 ends on the back bed. There is an overlap on the same side of the rib configuration, take a good look at which side overlaps (should be on the left) as you will be racking one turn the other way to make an overlap on the other side of the rib on rows every 2nd row. Continue to RC 150.

Armhole and neck shaping: RC000
Dec sequence, COUNT NEEDLES ON THE FRONT BED, absorb the extra overlap st where it occurs: Neck and armhole decreases occur at the same time, the armhole edge is every 2nd row, and the neck every 4th.
Armhole:
-10st x 1 ev 2R (20 st total)
-2 st x 2 ev 2R (4 sts total)
-1 st x 7 ev 2R (10 sts total)
Neck:
-1st x 24, ev 4th row
continue to RC 98

Shoulder shaping:
You can do short row shaping if you like OR you can decrease straight from the machine OR you can put them on scrap/decker combs and do a 3 needle cast/bind off. Take your pick.
Dec sequence, COUNT NEEDLES ON THE FRONT BED, absorb the extra overlap st where it occurs, starting on the armhole edge:
-6 st x 4 ev 2R

Armbands:
Make 2: (or do by hand).

Neckband:
Make 2: (or do by hand).

Finishing
Sew seams, and either graft machined bands or cheer as you cast off the bands.

Machine Vest 5ply Working Notes

2009-07-22T20:05:00.011+10:00

I'm going to use the 5ply burgundy wool from Wang Mill to make two vests. I thought I'd make up in a simple form, before I do all the cables on the Denim one. I saw one in the shops yesterday and I'm sure I'll be able to make this up in good quality wool and a nicer colour.

Prelim:
This vest: half fisherman's rib, N/EX, purl ribs showing on the outside.
swatch results:
T3.5 1:1 rib 20R
N/EX:
T4: 30S/75R
T4.5: 28S/60R
T5: 27S/65R

Fabric is quite thick, and would be an excellent substitute for polar fleece vest. I've got 625g of the lighter burgundy, there's 10 balls crepe and 5 spiral, I'll use these for all the ribs and leave the crepe for the body, hopefully I'll get a bit of extra length through the ribs, perhaps I'll put a ribbed section through the waist? I'll see what looks best. Buttons to the neck.

Next sample:
racked rib: 5x5 handle down (halfpitch). - lightly stretched.
T4.5: S28/42R
T5: S25/38R

This will work out nicely for the 500G. I would like to be able to use the same schematic as the Denim cable vest. One with V neck and one up to the neck. I won't bother with buttons on this one.

Next sample:

Honeycomb tuck stitch in Wang 2ply remnant:

T : S/ R
T : S/ R
T : S/ R

1785 km Round Trip to Bendigo Wool and Sheep Show 2009

2009-07-19T19:14:00.006+10:00

1785 km - aka Road Trip - to Bendigo and back.

I left at 4.30am, Thursday, picked up daughter at 5. We shared the driving. Next stop, Suttons Forest Maccas for brekkie, filled up the car at Yass and had morning tea. The Hume Highway had it's upgrade going for 125km before the Victorian border from Gundagai, slow going, 40, 60, 80 and 100 through that section, but the Albury bypass was so sensational, too early to stop for lunch, and unfortunately - we "forgot" to get petrol.. oops, we had flashing empty light into Glenrowan Maccas, where we filled the car, then ourselves. Then I managed to drive to Benalla, Shepparton and made it all the way to Elmore before I cracked. Couldn't go any further, so Loz had to drive the rest of the way to Bendigo.

We found mills in Bendi, .. first the flour mill, so we can safely say we certainly found our Bendigo mills alright! The wonderful Wooly wone was on the OTHER side of the railway line. The bargain room had some lovely mohair .. sock wool (family have ordered some) and some luxury - which I was actually wanting and was luck to get on the next day.

Next Day: Friday: We wandered along to the show. We said our Rav names at the main gate and got our Rav discount entry $8 each. First thing was to get a coffee (of course) visit some of the lovely stall holders and consult the map to find Sarah Durrant's stall. She said she was bringing in some Knitpick cable connectors - $3 - must have and I also bought some harmony 3.00 and 3.25mm points - I resisted the yarn, but will keep her in mind for my next sock buy. I also wanted to thank her for the lovely thing she did for her Kinglake customer, who lost absolutely everything in the fires. Sarah got her entire order together and presented it to her. Sarah also told me she is running a knitting group at Kinglake with generous donations from Collinette and some others. A wonderful, wonderful lady indeed.

Then some of the other things I saw: some spinning, drop spinning, an Ashford loom, the Wearable Art fashion parade, with lots of young Aussie designer's woolly goodies - such a lot of talent and so interesting to see. Oh, there's more: the buttons, ugg boots, indie dyers, the alpacas, wool, wool everywhere wool, alpaca, Pear Tree yarns, Sarah Durrant, Wooldancer, drum carder, fleece, roving, Stockpile socks (bought a pair for ex husband's birthday next month). Sheep - the real ones, with woolly legs, sheep, and sheep dogs in the sheep trials - see the movie Babe for more the general idea. Wonderful wonderful wonderful, seeing the dogs, fly across the paddock round up the sheep and put them in their pens.

I wanted to buy something a little bit different, not commercial, I mean, I ended up buying some natural Tandara (I think if white suffolk sheep). It's a lovely soft yarn and I got enough to do a vest. gorgeous and I haven't seen anything like it.

After an exhausting day (for me) at the show, we decided on another trip to the Bendi mill, where I bought some mohair similar to the one Loz got on Thursday, and they had some underweight Luxury out - YIPPEE I got what I actually went for.. oh joy, Oceanic, Lake and Ice. but in 8ply. We took ourselves off to the Foundry pub for dinner. Can't beat country cooking and then an early night.

Off to Wangaratta on Saturday. The Visit to the Mill Shop was great: full to the brim with woolly stuff. We Bought Heaps! quite a bit of remnants for $27.50 a kilo and some messy bits for $10/kilo, some for a bit more. I could have walked out with a lot more, of course, but kept it down a little bit, after all it's a little car and we are big people and we can come back next year for another visit. I particularly liked the 4ply for play with on the machine and I wont have to worry how many times I will need to rip and redo to get myself on the right track. Carol from the shop says they are bringing out some more sock wool soon and also some in 8ply. Goody, I will give her a call in a little bit and see if she has any oddments for me to try. (edit: they are actually making it now - no samples yet)

Last but not least, we got to the motel just before 2. Both of us had had enough - sore assorted limbs, a relaxing time watching DVDs, resting before heading home on Sunday. I drove to Albury, Loz to Tarcutta, me to Yass for lunch then Suttons for arvos, then Loz to her home, then me to mine. It's the furthest I've been able to drive for a long time and now I've posted this, I think it's time to hit the bathtub and have a soak....

I'll just get my tea....

Bendi 4ply Luxury Vest Working Notes

2009-07-08T13:16:00.009+10:00

I can now knit socks, toe up, top down, short row heel or heel flap for my family. Time to get serious about gaining some proficiency for things-other-than-socks.

Working Notes for 4ply Vest

Different styles to experiment with:

Big cable ? Susan G's HMSFMK version of short rows? looser stitch size and 4x4 x4 at rest, reversing in say 6 rows time?
A pattern out of my Passap pattern book?
Incorporating some of the colour samples from the coop buy?
A racked zigzag on the front, plain back (seen in the shops?)

I've bought 2 x 200G Luxury 4ply each of Black, Denim Blue and Ghost for my machine to knit. I'm using Caron's Long Cabled Vest as a template and although written for 10ply aran, the schematic is exactly right and I should be able to adapt the patterning to suit.

Swatch stitch sizes tested after a nice time relaxing on the lid of the sample container:
T5 31S/47R
T5.5 30S /44R
T6 28S/40R
T6.5 26s /37R

Going with T6 for stocking stitch,
T4 for 2:2 industrial rib.
Have had a couple of false starts, and it's off the machine and remeasure - too big, I'll recheck all my calculations. 4x4 cable and 4 resting each side, every 10 rows is OK. I changed the spare looped stitches from this swatch so that 2 loops go on the 4 stitches that go behind.

BMW 8ply Luxury Coop Samples

2009-07-07T13:35:00.003+10:00

My samples from the Bendi Coop 8ply Luxury came the other day. I've been trialling different combos to see what colours will go together. I would really love to have the funds to buy one in each colour, of course, but like most.. not going to happen any time soon.

Well here is my sample knit/swatch/what-do-these-colours-look-together: (L-R)
2 rows Oceanic, Lake, Ice mix
4 rows Ghost
4 rows Pink
2 rows Mink, Red Earth, Pink mix
then
2 rows Iris Mist, Purple Storm. Pink

I like the first three.

4 rows Cream
2 rows Barley, Cream, Leaf, Cream.
2 rows Bracken, Leaf, Barley mix

Bendi 4ply Luxury Coop

2009-06-30T15:01:00.003+10:00

Our Ravelry Bendigo group has organised a coop buy, approx 18m per share.

Finally got my old camera to work and the rain held of for a photo op:

And here is one bag of them all chopped up:

What to do with a Spotties bargain?

2009-06-03T09:19:00.008+10:00

Last Saturday, Shelley wanted to visit Spotlight in Wollongong before we went to SnB at the Novotel. Did we get the fine cotton she was looking for? No. Did we buy something else on a whim? Yes .. and .. yes. THEN we while we where leaving, that's right leaving the shop.. heading out the door, nothing left to tempt... I saw some Patons Washed Haze cotton/acrylic 10ply. How much? says me. 20cents a ball says the sales girl. 20 CENTS A BALL??? this stuff is $5/50g, too exxxxy for me, way over my budget. No longer. I dumpster dived and got 18 balls of the lovely blue = $3.60. Shelley decided that the purple would do just nicely for herself - 19 balls later, $3.80.

Being a distant relation to a giraffe, 18 balls will leave me with either 3/4 sleeves or cropped length, which I'd have lived with -- however -- On Sunday I decided to see if Rockdale had any.. They did, after asking the lovely, helpful, fellow knitter from the wool counter, who went and found the last 5 @ $4.99/50g ball. OK, I decided I could pay the $25, I was happy. I told her about the fab buy yesterday at the 'Gong, she said she couldn't match it, of course I said, didn't expect her too, but she did say she could do it for half price!!! then said - where's mine, why didn't you buy ME any? well - only the orange was left - not my colour and I thought it nice to leave it for some other bargain hunter. Fair enough, orange isn't her colour either.

Then to decide what to make... I wanted cables (ME? cables? who'd be surprised at that?) I've been on Rav since, scouring the cables tags.. rejecting everything. Almost giving up and thinking I'd make the blue cabled cotton jacket from the Knitter #3, that I thought the Bendi Harmony would work better, I can do the garter edged and pop it onto the machine to work the cables... grr.. No I don't want to make Central Park Hoodie with a collar. There is a spectacular jumper from Bergere de France that wont convert to a jacket/cardi.

Then I had a find.. not only that, I actually HAVE the mag.. I can't get a link of the pattern, #29 Slant Cable Jacket from Vogue Fall 2008. The red version photographed for the magazine doesn't do it justice at all. I'll put in some photos when I get it going.

I will print off the charts, and knit it on Saturdays for a bit, as my home handknit is my Zetor scarf, which I'm nearly 3/4 the way through. I'm on 9th repeat of the pattern, with one or two more before I finish it.. I hate to say it, but I'm seriously thinking of the clear beads on the edge. but that's another story for the other blog!! (Best link I can do is ElliJaAura's version for anyone on Ravelry,)

Here is the photo of the Washed Haze. The top one is the #29, however the cotton yarn is too unforgiving to support such thick cables. It has the outer cables going the wrong way, which annoys me, and the very thick twin cables and other cables are too much for it. I'll remake it, but in a thinner yarn, ditch those thick cables and side ribs are just too much for me. I really like the second choice. I got a VK Holiday 2004 mag from Debbie in Arkansas, and have chosen #20 Rib and Cables. I'm not going to do the pockets on the front, but put the Celtic knots and smaller twisty ones on the sides and up the centre of the sleeves.

Time to knit another lace shawl

2009-05-24T15:30:00.006+10:00

I've looked till I've burned shawls into my eyes and have decided to make

Zetor Scarf Pattern

in my October 08 prize from Daphne's the Knittery.

I have pictures, but it is cold and raining and will have to wait to show it all blocked and lovely, however, here are some unblocked photos.

Baby Blankets on the Passap

2009-05-08T08:49:00.005+10:00

My goal is to put the 29 x 100g balls of 5ply acrylic I "found" in my garage clean up through my machine.

Passap Pattern Book - First Experiences:

4 have gone into : #7031, two colour BX/BX pattern, done exactly as written, except I needed to do 700+ rows to get it square, and not doing the fringe.

This is the first time I've used 177 sts each bed, with pushers. Now is the time I'm sorry I put the crook needles at the end, LOL. I will replace the flawed needle on the left side front bed as it keep dropping stitches, before I do another one.

This one is the two colour one, and except that apparently I can't count to 6... it went very well. My only other problem is the hesitation I sometimes do at the beginning of the row after I pick up the colour - this changes the positions of the first couple of pushers, of course and when I get over my doubts - the first couple are out of order. If only I could learn to have the hesitations at the END of the row! Also needs weights on the left side, I think it's the old style colour changer pulling the last stitch on each bed off their needles.

I gave one to April, my niece Mel's new bub on Mother's day lunch on Sunday.

Socks and Cards Week

2009-04-26T19:02:00.009+10:00

I decided next week that I needed to shut the lid on the computer and finish off the last of my sock orders. I've made 3 pairs of heel flap socks, one ankle version for me and two long knee length socks for Sim:

Now the knee socks are long - here's their amended pattern:

CO 80 FB for 2:2 industrial rib, starting with 11.11 to end, both beds.

Cuff:
T3, N/N, 100R, transfer front sts to back bed, both sts onto empty needle making 80 sts in all -
T4.5, GX/N, 2R, fold in half from centre sts - RC000

Legs:
T4.5 (throughout the rest of the sock), CX/CX, 150R, then dec 2nd sts from end in rows:
150, 160, 170, 190, 210, 230, 250, 270, 290, 310 to 60 sts. Rotate quarter turn before 350RC.

Heel flap: 30/30 split. RC 000
row 1: GX/BX right arrow, ev other pusher in working position, plus END PUSHERS always UP.
row 2: GX/N,
then: put end pushers up
Repeat these three actions to RC 48.

Turn Heel: GX/BX, use pushers to work 17sts, work 2 tog, 1, (19 total), next row work 6 (then 7, 8 etc to end) 2 tog, 1 till 18 sts remain. (I also put the needle/pusher closest to the lock DOWN - mimicking slip one). rotate quarter turn so middle heel is on the right.

Gusset: RC000
Pick up 24 each side, 96 sts in all, CX/CX, decrease on upper side every 4th rowcount and every 1oth rowcount on sole/heelturn side 15 sts from end on all beds. continue to 60sts

Foot: continue to RC 150

Toe: dec 2nd st from end on all beds (4sts in total) on RC 150, 158, 164, 170, 174, 178, 182, then every 2 rowcounts till 8 sts remain.

Graft toe and sew back cuff.

My Ankle socks are the same as the previous ones.

Next on the things to do this week are cards (As this is my knitting blog I've moved the cards over to my new card blog. I'm tidy minded!)

853 Bergere de France Green Jumper

2009-04-19T07:45:00.006+10:00

Call me crazy, but I do love Bergere de France free patterns. OK OK they are in French, BUT they are also in Knitting. This link is for the Femme in us all, there is also Homme, Enfant, and kids. Some have a lovely little knitting machine symbol, which I have even more love for, but not this one.

Here is a photo of my latest love:

The principles are there.. cast on xx sts, do some sort of rib; knit xxx rows to the armhole, cast off xx sts, for xx rows, then usually a few more xx sts for a few more xx rows, then straight for xx cm to the shoulders, where we ignore the instructions and do a short row shaping for xx sts over xx rows anyway. On the front, fiddle with the neck shaping as well. Sleeves are always the same too. All this and an excellent schematic diagram.

Now there's me. I look at the schematic, whereby I decide where I need to increase the length to fit my big self - which really means it doesn't matter what language it's written in, out comes the pencil and alterations begin, saves heaps of time translating!

I'm hand knitting this one on 4.5mm needles using Cleakheaton Country 12ply, in a green which is pretty close to the green on the Harmony Knitpicks, which I stuck next to the top of the photo (not quite as yellow as it's showing on my monitor). After this lovely beginning (edging) it is plain st st to just below the shoulders and finishes with a 19cm open rib and matching cowl neck. I decided to knit both front and back edges while the translation was still fresh in my mind. I've had a couple of opportunities to sit, wait and knit this week - my first ever visit to MKers of NSW guild on Thursday, Saturday's SnB and waiting to pick up Peter from Burwood, I'm already up to the armholes on one piece and nearly there on the other. Today I'll do both sleeves patterned edges and leave them on knitpicks cables (aren't they they best things ever invented?).

The only tricky bit of translation I found was on the centre on the square (hopefully) it is:

knit 5 tog without taking them off the left needle (I used a crochet hook),

RN: one long stitch which is through those
LN: 5 sts,

next yo, knit 2 tog and take off left needle:

RN: one long st; one yo; one st
LN: 3 sts

next yo, knit 3 tog take remaining 3 off left needle:

RN: one long st; one yo; one st; one yo; one st
LN: no sts left from this set.

The rest of the instructions for the edging is easy enough to follow, even if it isn't exactly what the French is, it is how I wanted the fabric to look.

The top "mesh" pattern uses dropped stitches to achieve a nice open look.
I'm reasonably sure that the translation was to drop the stitch when casting off, however, I dropped them every couple of rounds as I wanted to put a bit of shaping into the front panel, so I did a 3 pattern sets of 2/1 next to the shoulder 3 rounds short of when I was supposed to stop, stopping short by one set each round to the end, to make it more comfortable to wear. Yes that meant a bit of a bigger space, but it will be covered by the cowl.

Now I've finished my Shalom vest, I will be taking this anywhere I'm sitting and chatting and/or waiting for kids etc. Eventually, I'll finish it.

Monkey Spreadsheet for 80 sts Cast on

2009-04-14T20:04:00.004+10:00

Monkey pattern in Knitty.com has a 64 sts cast on. Unfortunately, that's never going to fit me, so here is my 80 sts version (please click on the picture to see it clearly):

My Heel Flap Anke socks

2009-03-25T07:16:00.011+11:00

This is one for the big foots amongst us.

The problem with heel flaps socks and me is getting the flap long enough to go over my heel which results in a lot of picked up stitches to get rid of before the instep.

While doing Sim's Heel Flap socks I found for some reason, dec every 2 row count (every round) didn't sit right. I experimented with keeping the every 4th row count (2 rounds) on the upper, and reducing the extras for her on the sole side. This looked much better and when she tried on the sock, I decided that the decreases could have been done evenly along the sole side.

Now for me. On went my best fitting heel flap socks, which I have worn a hole in and badly need replacing. Now for the pinch and pull and counted back that I could have finished 10 stitches back and calculated that if I reduced 2 sts on the upper ev 4th row (2 rounds) and 2 on the 8th row (4th round) I would have a lovely convergence in just the right place. P.E.R.F.E.C.T. My new best fitting cotton ankle socks.

To make mine:

Recommend you look at Stephanie's heel flap tutorial, as these are based on her technique.

CO 72 using industrial 2:2 rib, I join my ribs on the front bed and transfer them both to the empty needle on the back bed to obtain 72 live stitches.
T3; R16; 2:2 rib; N/N. Do transfer for circular, no reset, T4.5, CX/CX cont to RC 24. RC000.

Heel over 36 sts:
Row 1: T4.5 , GX/BX, right arrow, ev alt pusher in WP; 1st and 36th are always in WP.
Row 2: GX/N
Return pusher 1 and 36 to WP
Repeat these 3 actions to RC56. Remember to TAKE OFF ARROW.
Turn heel numbers: 26, 2tog, 1. Next row: 12, 2tog, 1.. etc.

Take off machine, as it's done in cotton blend, there are too many stitches to stretch across, unfortunately. Using 2.25mm pick up 30 sts along heel flaps and knit 3 rounds. You can put them back onto the machine at this point but even so, it's still a very very tight fit. I never solved the problem of the stitches loosening too much in the centre of the heel, as seen in the photo, not a too bad when the enlarged stitches are shared amongst it's neighbours. When I do them again, I'll knit the next decrease round by hand and the next making the row counter 10, then put back onto the machine to see if that solves that problem.

Gusset Decreases: dec on upper every 4th row (RC 8), moving the 18 sts one needle to the left. Starting on RC8, dec 2 sts on the sole side, again moving 18 sts on needle to the right = 4 sts decreased in total on every 8th RC. (seq: -4 RC8; -2 RC12; -4 RC16; -2 RC 20 and so on) until 72sts remain.

Rotate and continue to RC 170.

Toe: dec 4 sts on rows 170, 178, 184, 190, 196, 200, 204, 208, 212, 216 then ev 2 rc to 8 sts.

Sew cuff, kitchener toe.

Passap 75s Socks

2009-03-23T19:20:00.017+11:00

Edit 6Apr09: I've put Passap 75s pattern on Ravelry. I haven't worked out how to upload the PDF.

I'm experimenting with tuck lace socks for the top of Sim's socks. I thought she'd like a little bit of girly on her black socks. Similar to the ones by Knittaxa's Mein Muster, I based mine on Passap Pattern 75 from the first little purple book and is achieved by alternating CX and DX with 1 pusher in RP at regular intervals depending on stitch count. 4R CX/CX, Black; 4R DX/DX, Grey, ev 5th pusher in RP.

eg on my 60 st - every 5th stitch is tucked, on the 64st, every 4th.

One pair is all black, exactly the same pattern as the two colour ones, except I couldn't work out how to do her preferred heel flap. She loved the short row heel anyway!

Others in the little purple Passap book Vertical stripe:Pattern 91 Checks: Pattern 111 Using scraps in nice patterned stripes: Pattern 36 Spots: Pattern 47 2col honeycomb: pattern 73.

The pattern to make these:
Front bed needles start on left on 30. needle seq: 1.11.11. to end .1 ending on needle 30 on right. on the back, 11.11.11 to last three 111; I didn't count how many there were in total, for 2:2 industrial rib, gave me 60 st.
Handle down, rack one needle to left.
Cuff:
Colour 1:
Blue strippers, N/N, T2, 1R,
CX/CX T3.5, 2R, rack one needle to right
N/N, T3.5, 1R. reset RC 000
N/N, T3.5, 20R.
Transfer sts to the back bed, I put the two front bed stitches together and transferred them into the single vacant needle.
Leg:
Black strippers, handle up, GX/N, T4.5 (for the rest of sock), 2R, transfer 15 sts each side to front bed.
(If doing other colours- Colour 2:)
pusher set up: starting on front bed, left side, 4WP (up), 1RP (down) right around both beds, in continuous sequence, ending with very last one on left hand side of back bed DOWN.
DX/DX, 4R, Col 2
CX/CX, 4R, Col 1
continue this 8R sequence to row 143 (col 1), lock on left.
Heel, Col 1:
BX/GX, work short rows to 10 sts (put some weight on heel) and back (lock on left). work one row on the back bed (keeping to pattern).
Foot:
Pusher set up: back bed remain unchanged; Front bed, last needle (on right) is DOWN, the rest are up and will be making stripes on the sole of the sock,
Col 2: DX/ DX, 4R
Col 1: CX/CX, 4R
Continue this 8R sequence to row 142 (black)
Toe:
Col 1:, CX/CX
Pick up 3rd st from each end, put it on top on 2nd and at the same time, pick up 1st and 2nd together and put where 3rd and 2nd were, on all ends. 4 sts in total, each decrease.
on rows 142, 150, 156, 162, 166, 170, 174, 178 then ev 2 RC (single row) until 4 sts are left.

Here it is stretched out, which they will do in places, when worn.

Suggest Pusher Set up for these size socks or whichever combination you like, BUT the LAST PUSHER ON EACH BED MUST BE DOWN.
48 sts - every 4th
52 sts - every 5th x 2 and 6st x 1 in the centre
56 sts - every 7th
60 sts - every 5th
64 sts - every 4th
68 sts - every 4th x 8 and 5th x 2
72 sts - every 4th or 6th
78 sts - every 4th x 9 and 3rd x 1; or 4th x 8 and 7st x 1 in the centre.

Garage Clean up - What's in the Box?

2009-03-15T09:30:00.003+11:00

Well... this week Dotter #1 came down for a two day cleanupathon on her junk she's storing in my garage, taking up space where we could actually park a car. I assembled 2 x metal shelves. which we put sorted junk. She has ordered a bookshelf for her room and will take books away in a couple of weeks. I do believe we have both had enough of cleaning up the garage until then. I reckon there's about another 2 to 4 hours to completely tidy it up for good, once the books have been rehomed.

We threw out 3 bins of recycling and 2 of rubbish. I didn't want to go through all my boxes, but decided to sort anything with paper and yarn. My contribution to the recycling.. I only have to keep papers for 7 years and 2001 - so out of here..

Then, packed right at the back, one box of wool and acrylic, so much bigger than I remembered. And no, I didn't think there was almost 3kg of acrylic 5ply!!! 29 x 100gm. I met a lady who knits for Eritrea, and will wait till I see her again and see if she wants -3kg of socks or rugs. either or, they can be done on the machine. And the wool.. wonderful, wonderful, can't buy it anymore 100% 4ply wool, waxed ready for machine (or hand) in various shades of pink, red, white and natural - 5 x 100g of all but the red 8 x 100g - yep over 3kg of it! And some fine blue wool boucle that isn't so bad as it sounds.. and some rather interesting blue/brown 25g ball of wool/nylon blend, will be good for a short sleeve cardi/shrug. Who knew over 7kg of wool/acrylic would fit in that box!!! Just what I needs - more wool. Oh dear. Thank goodness there was only one box.. ahhhhh.

We certainly put in the effort to get such a good result. We were able to put her bigger items at the back, which will make the final tidy up much easier. We may need to buy another metal shelf or two. Whatever it takes.

Heel Flap Machine Socks

2009-03-04T20:11:00.014+11:00

Upated 15 Mar 09:
I've made a second pair, rotating a quarter turn, as per Dresda's Pictorial, picking up the 24 stitches, putting back onto the machine. I used coins as weights in between the beds on the heel flap to keep the stitches in place. It was a lot more fiddling - perhaps it was because it was black and difficult to see (?) Anyway here is it's picture:

Updated 7 Mar 09:

Firstly, my friend Stephanie has an excellent tutorial of doing Dresda's Heel Flap Socks which I'm basing mine on. My daughter prefers heel flap style and I'm using the above as a template. (I also have three to make for my BIL Dave) I'll only expand on where mine vary (so if anything's not clear, check the tutorial for explanation):

Cuff:
Cast on 60, L30, R30, 2:2 Industrial rib = 1rack to left, T1, N/N, 1 R; T5 CX/CX 2R; rack 1 to right, T5, N/N 1R; Reset RC000; 20R.
Trans to back bed. 2 rows GX/N, divide and put 15 from each end onto front bed. RC 000

Legs:
T5, CX/CX 140R.

Heel flap. 30/30

Row 1: T5, GX/BX right arrow; alt pushers = 1xWP, 1xRP. END pushers are always in WP.
Row 2: T5, GX/N (end of this row, reset end pushers to WP and flip lever.)
Repeat these 2 rows 24 times (48 RC)
Heel turn:
T5, GX/BX (REMEMBER to reset the arrow to 0) turn the heel using pushers and moving stitches inwards as per tutorial:
Heel turn numbers for this pair:
Work17, 2tog, work 1, turn (19 stitches worked),
work 6, 2tog, work 1 (slip 1, work 5, 2tog, work 1 = 7 stitches worked, bring slip pusher back into work)
K7, k2tog, k1 turn (slip 1, work 6, 2tog, work 1 = 8 stitches worked, bring slip pusher back into work)
P8, as before, then, K9, P10, K11, until 18 sts remain.

Reposition for gusset decreases:
Take off the machine with 4 x decker combs at halfway point for each quarter eg, back bed = 9 on each comb; front bed = 15 on each comb.

ROTATE 180 and rehang, so it's easier to do gusset decreases. 24 stitches each side must be added for the gusset. (96 total, 48 each bed, 24 each quarter).

THIS DID NOT WORK - there is fabric is too tight to stretch across the beds: pick up 15 each side for the back bed and 9 sts from heel flap for the front bed combs on each side)

Some things that do:
e-wrap 24 sts each side and continue (my machine wont knit ewrap so I had to manually knit 4 rows before it would cooperate). I liked the finished edge, smooth and will graft easily onto the gusset.

Crochet 24 sts each side, either on scrap to undo and kitchener later or in same yarn and continue.

I am going to Different e-wrap shown in the Hand Manipulated Stitches book p37 - knitted back double epwrap cast on - This worked really well. ewrap first needle, wrap around the next bringing the thread back over the original needle and knit off one stitch; then move onto the next. Check that all stitches knit properly on the first CX row, much easier.

(You may have to HAND KNIT added stitches for first row - not with the double knit ewrap it knitted). Put some weights on the sides and on the added stitches. RC 000

Gusset decreases:
Place a marker (pusher in RP works well) at the 15 st mark each side FB:
T5, CX/CX, knit 2 rows = RC 4,
dec 1 st each side; at the 15 stitch mark, TAKE it off the needle and put it onto needle 16 now move stitches along to empty needle as per tutorial,
alternating: racking left then right, moving one stitch to the front bed REMEMBERING to ROTATE it instead of flipping FROM BACK TO FRONT (or you will have these cute little purl stitches interupting the lovely flow of sock AND undo the back bed right end stitch before transferring).
Repeat 26 times, (RC 56), then every round until 60 sts remain (RC64) no reset.

Feet:
T5, CX/CX to row 134 (DAVE 124)

Toes:
Dec 1 st each end (on second needle - leaving the outside stitch running up to the toe) all beds, 4 in total on next then on row 142, 148, 154, 158, 162, 144, then every round till 8 sts remain.

Dave's variation: to RC 124, then toe decreases on row, 132, 138, 1444, 148, 152, 156.

Better late than ever Post about my "new" book

2009-03-04T19:58:00.003+11:00

I ordered "A Machine Knitter's Guide to Creating Fabrics: Jacquard, Lace, Intarsia, Ripple and More" by Susanna Lewis and Julia Weissman. It's out of print. It's old, but as luck would have it, my even older machine predates it. There is lots of excellent information and patterns for me to try out.

I did have a bit of a fiddle with one of the patterns in some Noro sock wool. It's an awful sock wool and I wouldn't make socks with it. The slub parts don't go through the machine very well, maybe I'll try it again in a couple of weeks and be patient with it going through the feeder.

Crescent Moon/Japanese Feather and Fan Shawl

2009-02-23T18:37:00.005+11:00

I'm doing a bit happy dance. I. Have. Finished. it. Thank God! Over 1000m of it - AND some idiot felt the need to put beads on the edge rows.

I put extra repeats in, ending with 404 stitches - but who's counting?? And then one of my Canadian friends, Marlene, told me how to put beads on with a crochet hook. soooooooo on the knit row I had 67 beads (on 11 rows) and on the purl (5) rows, 131 beads .. the very next time I feel the need to put beads on someone please redirect me to this post.

I've washed and blocked it.

I'm very happy with it, a day after the horror that was putting beads on has passed. Blocked well. This photo shows the bead detail. The photo showing them shinny didn't turn out well, unfortunately, but I put it on the end.

Tucked Up Lakeside Passap Socks

2009-01-28T21:08:00.010+11:00

I wanted to try the pattern I'm using on my Henley, so I decided to do a trial run on some Passap Socks I'm putting through the machine. It is the pattern in Passap book 11, number 1682.

I'm going to write out the pattern for my 5ply Chubby Merino sock wool, which will be too big for most. My suggestion is to do thinner yarn and reduce tension to T 5 for the DX/DX pattern and T4.5 for feet. This should fit. Use your usual sock pattern and put this pattern into it on the legs only.

Pattern repeat: 5 stitches

Cuff:
Cast on 60 sts 1:1, N/N, T2, 1R.
T4, CX/CX, 2R. RC000.
T4, N/N, 15R
transfer all stitches to back bed
T6, GX/N, 2R
transfer 15 st each end to front bed.

Leg:
Pattern set up:
Needle and Pusher set up: 1 . 1 . 11 . 1 . 1 (etc) 6 sets of 5 stitches.
The . stitches each side of the . 1 . (centre stitches) are transferred onto the 1 (centre stitches).
T6, CX/CX 2R.
RC 000

Begin pattern begins with
1 . 1 (WP) . 11 . 1 (RP) . 1 and so on.
In other words, every second centre pusher (. 1 .) is put into rest position, 3 will be up and 3 will be down on each bed, alternating every 8th row count.
T6, DX/DX. Manually exchanging centre pushers on RC 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144.
Work in pattern to RC144.
However if using thinner yarn and T 5, trial tucking every RC 1o or 12 to see if you like the look of it better.
R145 = bring all needles into working position. Return all pushers to RP.
Reset to CX/CX
knit to RC149, lock left. (or Knit to your preferred length, leaving a few rows in st st before heel.)

Heel:
GX/BX, T5.75, bring all pusher on front bed to working position, work short row heel down to 10 sts, and back.

Foot: RC000
CX/CX, T5.5, knit to RC 120.

Toe:
Dec each end, both beds on this RC= 120 and on 128, 134, 140, 144, 148, 152, then every circ row (2RCs) till 8 sts remain.

Sew cuff and kitchener toe.

I will attempt to do a diagram for the pattern - last one was a disaster - no promises - here goes see if it works - but no lines!! you'll have to put your own in, sorry!

download now

Needle

4 rows position a

4 rows position b

Henley Passaped

2009-01-20T07:47:00.006+11:00

Updated: 21 Jan 09.

I want to make Henley Perfected on the machine, but to do the lace as written is just a little beyond my reach. I'll up date my notes as I go and unless I get a really smooth idea to action thing happening, I expect to take a couple of months to plan and do.

Project working notes:

Project: Henley Perfected but with AX pattern.
Trialling T4.5 - 6 StSt; T4 - 5.5 Pat.

Yarn: Bendigo Woollen Mills Classic 3ply cone wool in Blueberry. a really nice purlish blue.

I tried a couple and really like the pattern in Passap book 11, number 1682. It's not too difficult, done on front bed, has a 2 needle edge.

Pattern set up: GX/AX.
Needle and Pusher set up: 11 . 1 . 11 . 1 . 11 (etc)
the . stitches each side of the . 1 . (centre stitches) are transferred onto the 1 (centre stitches).
Pattern begins with 11 . 1 (WP) . 11 . 1 (RP) . 11 and so on. In other words, every second centre stitch (. 1 .) is put into rest position.
Knit 6 rows.
Swap single needle pushers (centre stitches) (ie WP to RP / RP to WP). this was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
Pattern is done half T less than StSt seems to work best.

Trialling the ridge division:
Bring needles from back bed into WP; 1 R N/N; 3R GX/N; transfer back bed using U70.
will look through the pattern books to see if there's anything in there I can try.

Daughters, Dentists, Fabric and Fiddling with knitting.

2009-01-18T20:08:00.007+11:00

This week's knitting efforts were put on the back burner for visiting daughters. My darling Anth visited early in the week, bringing fabric for Bush Fire Brigade display tablecloths. We cut 'em out, got 'em hemmed and put some elastic in some. I did manage to put the beaded edge on the tuck lace shawl. 100 beads later... but I could do this while chatting, no harm for a truly tiresome task. We found some really nice green Cleckheaton Bamboo to make her a Berrocco top.

Anth departed for home and a couple of hours later.. the revolving door which is my home, brought in Loz. This time she has fabric for a fancy dress costume. Next morning, she goes off to do some shopping we get time to do a bit of drafting before Dentist appointment. Luckily for us, we found our excellent dentist who makes the necessary adjustment to her, wasn't really ill and was able to go home. Inbetween time we looked through the Bendi samples and bought her some 2 ply Plum to make her her very own tuck stitch shawl and some yarn for her Shalom. And I did manage to chat and get the OTHER beaded end of the shawl cast off.

I undid a couple of rows on my Crescent Moon Shawl and redid them, I was a bit miffed, but it didn't take long to rip it back and redo. I think I did one too many rows of the pattern, which is why is wasn't turning out right! Dah! Next thing was to do the excel spreadsheet for the extra rows it needs (done).

I did a couple of trial AX pattern for my Henley style half and half jumper, and I've settled on Passap book 11, No 1682. Photos soon.

Guitmerozis Shawl/Scarf

2009-01-10T08:54:00.011+11:00

I decided to do a straight (as in no shaping just knit back and forth - straight) piece to acclimatise myself with AX patterns. I want to make Henley Perfected from my Interweave Knits mag, but I'm fairly certain to do it all on the machine is just a little beyond my reach. So... what else to do but an easier version with an AX auto or semi auto pattern. As a preproject I decided to make Jana Trent's Passap DM80 Tuck Lace Shawl/Scarf as a practice piece.

Working Notes:

Caston: I tried several methods, firstly in main yarn; 1:1 rib, transferred stitches, adding various weights as per the original instructions. Well I think my main problem with this is I don't have a cast on comb and couldn't come up with any way to add weight without pulling the whole thing to blahhdom. Next was scrap yarn, again 1:1 rib, transferred (then got sick of that and just dropped them) started with lace yarn and problems again with weights. Next idea, set up needles for pattern, using waste yarn again, and not worrying about the quality of the caston, T5, N/N, 1R; rack 1 nd to left, 1R; rack 1 nd to right; keep knitting and eventually knits all sts and long enough to attach weights. Success (and a really rotten first couple of cast on rows).

Weights: Problem: no cast on comb. After successfully casting on with waste yarn, and before I finished knitting with it, I attached my weights. Using silver crochet hook, picked up paperclip with lock attached and evenly spaced them across the work, until work is exposed and then can be hooked into fabric. I did manage to hook the heel grips at the end. Padlocks work remarkably well.

Knitting 2ply lace on T7: problem: dropped stitches. Constant weight must be applied at all times. On the first couple of runs, I moved the weight but allowed the live stitches to be weightless, resulting in too many dropped stitches. I tried several types of weights I have on hand and the smooth padlocks, directly hooked in the fabric, worked best, no pulling or overstretching. The heel grips went on the very end, as I could get them higher up inside the machine and that eliminated edge problems.

Dropped stitches: Cause: not keeping weight on live stitches at all times. On the final attempt, I managed to keep pressure on the live stitches as I repositioned the weights over 700 rows, and about halfway through I dropped 2 stitches, which I dropped back and relatched when I finished knitting. (crochet hook v latch tool: use the latch tool). I initially stopped, flipped levers and repositioned weight on row 6, but ... so many dropped stitches later, trialled and thought better, to knit row 1 then stop. I think this helped and if not, no harm done either way.

Undoing rows: Successfully and carefully done, making sure there were no dropped stitches, keeping weight on needles and using red tool where necessary. (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, STOP flip levers. NOT keep on knittin' and countin' to 10).

Cast off: no dramas. N/N on scrap.

Finish: All scrap now removed, after - best guess - over 2000 rows to knit a 700 row shawl/scarf. I now know how the AX tuck stitch works! Now to decide whether to put in some glass bead on the ends, (after I finish my cotton top, of course!).

Beaded Cast off, both ends. I used the method in the Swallowtail Shawl, but with beads; make a point with PVA glue, wait till dry; thread about 100 beads; knit first stitch, with a bead in the centre of the new stitch, ie draw the first loop over the bead; *knit one, knit both sts through back of loop, with the bead in the centre, a bit of a fiddle - pass both loops over the bead, drawing it up between the loops * , repeat to end. Took me a while to do.. but worth it.

I'm looking at the pattern books to see which pattern I'll put on the Henley and do a sampler.

Starting up the New Year

2009-01-05T07:48:00.007+11:00

What have I been doing instead of posting in the blog? I've been busy knitting, oddly enough, and when not knitting this past fortnight there's been Christmas, family, visiting, movie with friend and a funeral.
I made Shazza a pair of socks to cheer her up.

I've managed to get the 4ply cotton to knit and should finish the back today.

On the hand knits, I've been doing the Shalom vest, for the SnB knit and when it's late and I'm not able to do the necessary concentration to do the Japanese Feather and Fan shawl.

I'm really going to have to admit to choosing the wrong wool for my CPH, it has hit yet another hurdle, as I was finishing the bands, I've done one repeat of the cable less on one front... but I've had a really good look at it and I have to say, the handknitted Mystique 8plys have a much nicer finish. I'm almost ready to frog it and knit something else, then choose one of the Classic or Rustics to put through the machine. I know not everything goes through the machine, but learning to be tough and rip it if it's not what I hoped is hard going!

Twis the week before Christmas

2008-12-21T08:45:00.010+11:00

This week has been a finishing week.

On 16th I knitted the last stitch, wove in ends grafted edge for my Hot socks Nanna rug:

I started in March 08; it is 8 x 15 squares, half square border, 7 x 100g sock wool. 2 x 100g grey socks wool, done in garter stitch with 2.5 needles, and took over 170 hours to knit. And on my legs and feet as I type.

Then later on 16th, I knitted the last couple of rows of my Fetching Mitts: As there are 7695 finished pairs of these on Ravelry (as at 9.00AM Sydney Oz time, 21 Dec) I decided to take an "arty" photo:

Although there is a cool breeze coming through the window and making my feet cold, it aint cold enough for me to wear these.. they are in the drawer waiting for 09.

Having finished both these and doing RnR (rip and redo) of my knitting machine Minty Fresh and building up the strength to go another round with the KM - there was only one thing to do:

Pick up my CPH and knit. I went with the collar and looked on Rav to see how other collar doers did, so, collar first, and bands extending across the collar. That decided, I've done the collar and button band and am onto the buttonhole band. Shelley, my SnB friend gave me a quick lesson on mattress stitch, and I've even sewed up about 10cm of one of the sides.

I did make a positive start on my Crescent Moon scarf, I've redone the "cast on 13 sts" to the same as the Swallowtail shawl, do the K2 garter and pick up the purl bumps, very happy with this, much much better, and have taken it's prelim photo, may rip it back and redo a little section I went back and didn't fix very well, I will do a post just for it sometime next week, after I've had a bit more of a think about it.

It was a cool day yesterday so I asked daughter #1 to help me model my Drops sleeved shawl, here is my "arty" photo, the rest are on flickr or Rav.

So as I'd done some "arty" photos, I got friended on flickr by a photographer... Oh my stars! I shall never whinge about stupid arty photos again! It's my pet hate and proof that it's one anyone can take, but show me the knitted item as it really is: front, back, no hands in the way, no belt pulling in a too big, no arms over the head to cover the lousy sleeve cap contruction.. only showing the side view to hide the fact that it makes a skinny model look frumpy.. (ranty over now). So that will teach me, wont it?

Well, I'd like to wish everyone a wonderful stress free Merry Christmas. (And thank you for reading.) And give you one of my beaded cards:

SSS Britannia

2008-12-14T09:26:00.005+11:00

Swirly Shawly Sleevy Britannia is finished. It is my thinner version of Drops Pinwheel Cardigan. One of the comments against this style of garment was that a circle doesn't make a cardigan. I think that is probably correct, so I decided to make a shawl and put sleeves in it to keep it from falling off. That decided, I went to the stash and chose 4 x 200g Bendi Mystique Britannia. Once started, I continued on the largest chart to 20 stitches between the pattern, measured, and kept going to 26 stitches, plus pattern. Then put in the sleeve division (on waste yarn); PM/50/80/50/PM (marker/ sleeve/ shoulder/ sleeve/ marker) and when I do another one, I'd add 10 to the shoulder 50/90/50. The PM designates underside of sleeve.

I decided to knit up as much of the wool as possible, so I completed both sleeve and put the remainder into the shawl section: one extra repeat of the 12 row pattern (as shown in the middle size) and repeated 12 rows ribbing once so I have 6 repeats, not 3, casting off on the final pattern row. (720 stitches, measures 110 cm in diameter.)

Sleeve: pick up 50 + 6, dec 2 sts every 6 rows to 78, continue in 3:3 rib/berry stitch, but dec 2 sts every 4th pattern row to 66 sts, then 13 repeats of 4 row pattern in total, casting off instead of doing the final pattern row.

I'm thrilled with my shawl (with sleeves). I'm do feel every little cool breeze and will get a lot of wear with it staying put. (Even if I treat it like track pants - never to be worn out of the front door!!)

Minty Fresh aka Pull a Torsades 468

2008-12-07T09:59:00.005+11:00

I've decided to try making this on the Passap. Here is it's first attempt picture:
Problem: ladders, cables crossed in the wrong place, rib too tight.

Link: 468 Pull a Torsades from Bergere de France free pattern.

I'm making it in Bendigo 4ply Cotton, which is new to me and the machine.

Working notes:
I used some knit-in elastic for the rib. I didn't think things through, and on the first attempt, I didn't put in a marker (remove the pushers from the rail) for the cable and went two stitches out of alignment. I forgot to do some of the cables and I had ladders for not putting the handle down for this type of stitch alignment. AND the tension was too tight on the rib and too loose on the body. I will need to put an extra needle into work behind the cables on the row prior, to allow the cables to cross comfortably.

Rib 2:2 (cast on T1, N/N x 1; T3, CX/CX x 2; T3, N/N x 1; RCOOO) T3, N/N x 12**.
**11th rib row: T4.25, don't put knit in elastic. (probably easier to do 7:4 rib from the start or quicker to do rib by hand and put onto machine).
Number x9th rows: Two needles put behind cables.

OK T4.25 is too tight I got sick of putting the stitches back onto the needles, didn't have that problem with T5. I'm going to trial doing 7:4 rib, with elastic should be fine, at T4.5, then do body in T4.75.

Now picture: rib T4.75; body T6.5

Swatched as per Stephanie's instructions, and did the various stitch sizes recommended. I settled on 6.5. It is loose off the machine, but will shrink down when washed. I'm doing a bit each day and it's getting easier to flip the 2 pairs of stitches, and the cables are no dramas. I've put 2 spares behind the cables for ease, which has made eyelet style holes, and there's a few ladders, but I think they will be ok. Nothing I can't wear when finished.

Frist Week in December

2008-12-07T09:05:00.006+11:00

This week was filled with dismantling my spare part Passap; birthday activities; sorting out stash requirements for 2009 KAL on the knitting machine; sorting out what to make each month on the KM, some are very easy... socks.. I can do these in my sleep now, though it certainly took a few rip and remakes to have these skills and patterns!

I've got over 50 separate project sized quantities in the stash and I would like to have under 40 by this time next year. I want to do more than plain knitting on the machine and I'd like to have more diversity in my pattern book and get more out of my machine. A lot is just plain practice, learning by mistakes and not enough time taken in planning. I think I will need to allow 2 months on some of my more ambitious projects so will need to do socks, plain jumpers to keep to the make a garment (finished and ready to wear) every month on the machine.

CPH: really on the neck/front finishing to do and I'm still deciding if I want to have a hood or collar.

SSS Britannia: have knitted to enough to do the final 6 rounds of rib, have left it on the cable with stoppers and started on the sleeves, down to the very long cuff, going quickly now, I want to use all the yarn up in the big circle. It is taking around 10 m per round, so hopefully I'll have enough to do either an extra pattern round then extra ribs, or just extra ribs.

KMGAM KAL 2009: Minty Fresh, rib and cable done in Bendi 4ply 100% cotton, doing the prelim work for doing on the Passap for January's KAL finished garment. Up to 3rd cast on.

Clapotis by Machine: done in straight not diagonal. Old Problem: cast on on single bed - success with crochet cast on, I put the chains onto the combs, worked brilliantly. My machine and I have decided that we don't like the e wrap method. Nuff said!

November: the month of killing dead things

2008-11-30T18:40:00.004+11:00

Well well well, this has been my month of "Let's Do That Again" or better still, frog the whole thing. I frogged the Diamond cotton top and now have enough to make something else less lacy; completely mucked up my Denim Ornette socks and now have a nice ball of Denim sock wool.

Got a Passap machine for $1 for it's parts. The filthiest machine imaginable. Daughter #1 picked it up from Canberra for me, telling me it was rusty.. Now I knew plastic v metal but was "pleasantly" surprised when I found genuine ... dirt... Canberra Dirt and lots of it. Now I have heaps and heaps of goodies that came with it..
1 x Deco
1 x movable needle thingy that I saw for $102 canadian, great for the lacy things I've got planned for 2009.
2 x heel grips
3 x combs
1 x color box; 4 cylinder style feeders, mast and it works!
1 x U70
tools, weights, and bits and pieces.
It will see if it is better than mine in the long run. It's nice to have spares! AND goodies!

All the rest of my unfinished projects I had in the beginning of the month, well I've still got them unfinished, in fact the only thing I actually finished was the Clapotis scarf that I started 3 days ago.. on the Passap as part of the KAL on machine knitters on Rav. I had three goes at getting it done, and hesto presto, it's finished.. Hopefully next week I'll have actually finished something! or maybe I'll have dismantled "the Spare". And hopefully by the end of December maybe ALL of them, that would be really nice!

Clapotis Scarf - Machine Version

2008-11-30T18:14:00.003+11:00

Monika Stramaglia's Clapotis on Machine is a wonderful machine adaptation of the knitty Clapotis. Monika's version is done one the bias, but I wanted a quicker knit, so mine is straight.

For my first attempt:
I used 14 sets of 5 x working position / 3 x resting on the front bed and on the back bed, one needle on each side of the 5 needles and to the left, and used racking one needle back and forth to set the edge stitch. This would be excellent for using up a cone of slippery yarn. (diagonal as per original or straight). However, this used up a lot of yarn, making it about a metre (40") long.

I did another attempt using front bed only but that I had considerable trouble with the cast on (again!) and have officially given up on the e wrap method. My machine doesn't like it one little bit.

Last Attempt:
Front bed only: I upped the tension to T4.5: 12sets of 5WP/3RP and crocheted the cast on stitches onto the combs, it was slow going at first, but quite happy with it thereafter and will certainly use this method again, leaving the 3 x resting position chains inbetween. I'm just so relieved to have this work, it was the most fiddly. The counter says I did 552 rows and it ended up being 1.5m long.

I will do a diagonal version of the scarf, but not this side of Christmas.

Knitting News this week

2008-11-18T18:35:00.012+11:00

Denim Ornettes aka the Dodos: (focus and finish project): And frogged! Why you say? Why? Well, run out of yarn didn't I? right out. I'd just done row 18 of the foot chart when I noticed that there wasn't a lot of wool left, so I measured it, about 18 m.. and I was knitting over a metre per row at this stage, absolutely no way I had enough yarn. I didn't cut the first sock as it was a little bit big and thought if it looked like that I'd run a bit short, I'd rip it back and reknit it smaller from the heel. Not going to happen, it's short by too much. I'll redo the Ornette pattern at a later date. Meanwhile I do believe they are named for the wrong bird and are now could rightly be called Dodos. I've rewound the wool, but not blaming it! I'll find it a something really special for it, I will.

Go Fetch: (SnB easy knit) My time with the group was cut short last week - family BBQ commitments, with the EX husband AND his extended family, at the EX husband's place, BLAH! Nevermind, I did get a little bit done there and was able to do heaps when Daughter #1 drove half way there. I even "borrowed" some of her wool from her entrelac beret scraps for the thumb (yep past the thumb already). I've got one more row then start the cables. I'm going to make them longer then written to match my longer self.

Hot Socks Police Nanna Rug: (long term project) is doing the edge. Just picked it up and did a count, if I cover at least two squares a day, I'll be able to finish it with the next focus projects; CPH cardi; then Bannisters jumper.

I've been ploughing through that pile of unfinished so well, I've given myself Sundays: I can do as little or as much knitting as I like. (Just so long as I don't fall back into my old habit of stuffing my face with food! Hopefully I've moved on from doing that.) I'm looking at a long sleeved big circular back motif wrappy/cardi/shawly thingy and found a really nice pattern from the Norwegian DROPS site. I bought an alpaca blend from Lincraft, similar to what was recommended, it worked out well but would come to over $70. No way I can justify spending that when I have so much stash to knit through. So the two Alpaca balls will be turned into another pair Fetching mitts. Which meant if I want to make it, just what do I have in my stash that I could use? I settled on some Mystique in beautiful deep blue "Britannia" in 8ply. I didn't think it would disadvantage the end result if it was done in thinner yarn, especially when I read one of the Rav comments thinking it was a good idea. Just so long as the fabric was firm enough to hold it's shape with the yo and lace holes. To start I'll do the largest size to 20 stitches between the yos, and on Sunday I'll get the calculator and tape measure out to work out what to do next! I like this idea Monday to Friday really plough through those half finished projects and fiddle around on Sundays. Especially with a project like this one, where, by all accounts I've read, gets hideously boring doing the endless rounds as it gets towards the outside of the circle. One Rav knitter did the sleeves inbetween to break up the monotony, which I may do too as the thing gets bigger!

So I did end up buying 2 balls of Alpaca blend this week, but with the back up plan of turning them into top down Fetchings for next year's winter, they didn't actually end up in my bottomless pit of stash, as they are already in the Saturday bag, hopefully that doesn't count!

What I've been up to this week

2008-11-14T07:28:00.011+11:00

First things first: (smile, smile) here is the beautiful Silk Merino Moonlight Blue, I won last week from Daphne's October giveaway:

I don't know what I'll make yet, either Print o' the Wave Stole or Japanese Feather and Fan Shawl or In the Pink Shawl.

It's still in it's skein, ready to take to SnB for show and tell.

Now this week has been remarkably unproductive, so here goes:

Ornettes: focus and finish: Right sock finished. I did my usual Regia style toe, but I'm using thicker wool and bigger needles on the biggest size.. hmmppfff ttttoooo big. Oops, redid keeping the diagonal pattern travelling along the side. NOW for the worst bit. The "quicker" left sock. OMG!!! if only I'd started this one first, I would have changed the mock cables. Wait for it: you slip two stitches knitwise onto your right needle, THEN put them back on the LEFT needle, THEN put your RIGHT needle into the SECOND stitch on the left needle - from the back - AND KNIT IT. But wait... there's more fiddling - KEEP BOTH on the left needle - somehow - then knit two together TBL. I've invested so much time into these already, GRRR. I love the pattern, the wool and the finished one, but finding words to cover the pain-in-the-arsedness of the left mock cables is beyond me. Safe to say I'll not be making a second pair as written.

Go Fetch: SnB knit: CO45 seems to be to go, all packed up in it's zip lock bag, ready for it's outings on Saturdays, and here is it's picture for the four people left on the planet who haven't seen Fetching Mitts.

Police Hot Socks Blanket: long term project: finished the extra square down the side making it 8 squares wide, I'm glad I did, I could have made a pair of socks with the extra ball I found, but I'm happy it's in the rug. May even finish by the end of the month. That'll be a sad day, I'll miss it!

If I keep having difficulties with the left Ornette sock, I'll do a couple of rows a day and swap it with the CPH. There's a only a couple of days in each of the CPH, Bannisters and sock blanket to get them finished, which was my whole idea of having focus and finish project a week - to get rid of my almost done projects.

So this week, I HAVE added to stash, but it has a specific project: some Orange Blossom Chubby to make the other Cookie A's PDF sock pattern - Stricken Socks, not the best photo, silly camera! (and some secret secret stuff for presents). I'm not going to cast it on just yet, it's ready for the needles I'm using on the Ornettes.

I'm not counting my PRIZE of silk merino, I'm going to enjoy having won it for a little bit - then wind it into a ball when I choose what to make with it.

And Last but Not Least: To Rip or Not to Rip:
I've ripped my Diamonds cotton top. I've not knitted a stitch in months and months; I didn't knit elastic in the rib (it needed it); the actual pattern, though gorgeous was a bit too lacy (really am too old for too lacy); the yarn doesn't suit the pattern (too thick, would be better in thinner yarn); I had just started the 3rd 50g ball (not a lot of time invested); I've lots interest in it (sad but true). I've never actually done that before, I usually plough on and finish; maybe if I haven't finished it within a year it's time to give it a miss, so I did.

The next thing to have a really good think about is My Oblique - I've invested a lot more time into this one, almost up to the armholes in the all-in-one-body.... It's year is up in January, I'll see how I go with ploughing through CPH, Banniters, blanket and Ornettes.. these I want to finish.. I just don't know about the Oblique, perhaps I should look for a pattern to make it in instead. That would make it easier to rip I guess.

November already and theknittery's monthly skein prize

2008-11-06T09:40:00.003+11:00

Well what have I been up to this week?

Most exciting is I've won another beautiful skein of Daphne's theknittery's monthly give away. (Photo when it arrives.) I've chosen some more silk merino in moonlight blue, will wait till it arrives to see if I make either Print of the Wave Stole or another style of shawl, I've queued a few on Rav to choose from. I love this stuff, it's the most beautiful yarn to work with, this and Chubby and Slim merino sock. So nice.

Ornettes: focus and finish project: going a bit quicker now I've turned heel and am maybe half way down the foot, ahh me but it's the first sock still, second one will be much quicker!! That said, I am enjoying knitting them and hopefully I'll have them both finished sometime this week.

CPH: KM project: still to do: redo one sleeve cap; the hood - still deciding if I can do this on the KM; hand knit the bands; sew the little darling up. (This is the next focus project).

Go Fetch: SnB easy knit: I bought some Gleneagles Tweed from Lincraft for $0.99 a ball for Fetching mitts. I knitted up the first one on 4.50 not 4.00mm needles, thinking that I would need them bigger, HOWEVER, sadly 10ply pattern knitted in 12ply = too big. Frogged. Will do with less stitches but keep them to do for SnB. Most of the things I've half started are tricky (why they are half started!) and if I can get them done on Saturday afternoons, I'll be happy.

Police Blue Blanket: Ongoing project: I did a bit more of this in the start of the week when the Ornettes where too much to do all the time. Not a real lot to do, now I've had a look- only 5 mitred squares and half the border. Don't think I could make it a focus project, too boring, back to one square a day me thinks, ohh, that means by next Thursday I'll only have the border. Plan.