Sunday, April 16, 2017

Bulky/Chunky Easy Beanies

I did these at the Show. They were quick and easy to demo:

The 8ply acrylic is from Eleanor - who got it from a deceased estate's relative to "do something with".
Green and black

Rolled hem, took me 15 minutes and they stayed and watched me do it:
T3 80sts however you like.
60 rows
Transfer 1x1
T2 2RC
T0 2RC
take off with double eyelet tools treading through the loops,
draw up and sew up. about the first 10 rows reverse the seam.
37.3gms used

Mock rib took a bit longer first lot watched me do the mock then left when I was joining it. The next lot watched me finish it - probably about 30 minutes with explaining:
T3 80sts on WY, ravel cord row/s
drop 1x1 and continue EON 30 rows
pick up EON loops from ravel cord RC000
50 rows
Transfer 1x1
T2 2RC
T0 2RC
take off with double eyelet tools treading through the loops,
draw up and sew up. about the first 10 rows reverse the seam.
Used 46.5gms

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Racking on the Passap

Gee, I've only had the book since 1981.. Without any further delay - I present pattern 38 from the little purple book. I know, I know, over time, the cover goes pink. However, my  little purple pattern books live in the bookcase and are still purple.
I used 2ply lace weight wool. 
160 FNR L80/R80
Handle down, standard circular cast on
1R N/N 2/2
2RZ CX/CX 3.5/3.5
1R N/N 4/5

Straight into Pattern 38
Rack L EX/EX 1R
Rack R EX/EX 1R
Rpt 7 x 14RC - locks are on the Left

Rack L EX/EX 1R
Rack R EX/EX 1R
Rpt 7 x 14RC - lock are on the Right

And here it is finished.

I managed 540 rows before the wheels fell off.

What not to do again...

  • reset the counter back to 000 instead of xx rows. Restart
  • forget to stop at row 14, try undoing and if all goes well, continue.
  • to rip back to row 14, adjust the counter CAREFULLY to make sure it's forward twice per rip. hold the yarn in the right hand across the left, knuckles second joint flat against the striker plate and pull the yarn, moving the left hand rapidly back and forth, keeping the needles from popping up. If they do, put them back with the eyelet tool.
  • it was beyond my ability to rehang when I dropped stitches. Restart.

  • GX/GX is not an option unless the work it weighted. No, it all gets into an appalling mess. If there is a knot and going back is what is needed, make sure a good hold on the fabric beneath before moving the GX/GX - if not able to do that - off and start again.
  • Lose track of rows and or racking - restart.
  • I tried out the N/N row for the 15th row
  • And of course I left the N/N for 14 rows and left the EX/EX for the 15th. I really think that it was enough to rack the right way without fiddling with the N/X lever.

Monday, February 6, 2017

Tuck Stitch Baby Blanket with cards from HGMKS Ch III 28, 39 & 43.

I've punched out some new cards from The Harmony Guide to Machine Stitches (1988-1990) Chapter III to use in blankets.As far as I can determine, the book will be covered by copyright until 2060, 70 years after the last publication. Or from the author, and I had no luck finding other than Barbara Devaney is the compiler of the publication. There seems to be enough second hand books around to buy a copy. I have used a lot of patterns from it.

So for this exercise, I'll put the card I've punched, the number in the chapter, the Left and Right needle position and approx rows and the mini card I started and ended with. The book is there to use the patterns there is no written restriction for any use of the patterns, so I'm happy that I make the blankets and they get sold at Hospital gift shops. Nowhere says we can't sell the finished goods.

Now onto the biz of making Two hour baby blankets from Chapter III.

Out of a leftover scrap, I punched a 24 row card 1, which I snap on after lining it up so the tucks flow into the main card for any pattern with 1x1 changing every row, Card 1. And a 30 row one for the 1x1 changing every 2 rows, whichever worked out with the pattern.

Match the tucks in the pattern to the mini card and snap into position on the tuck card. Knit around until the snapped on section is in a good spot to take of and join the rotating card.

When the row counter is somewhere between 500 to 550 ish, separate the card again, line up the mini card making sure the tucks flow, then when it's though the machine.
knit two plain stst rows.

I've used:
2 ends Cashmillon acrylic 2/28 in various colours just under 200g total, 100g each cone..
T6 on Std gauge SK280
Between 550 and 580ish rows before clipping on the mini card to finish the blanket.
I like to crochet cast on and around the gatepost cast off with 2 rows stst after CO and CO. (Cast on/ off your preferred method, I like what I do)

Load the mini starter card clipped to the punchcard lined up only, leave the ends free and get knitting.

Card 12: L98 R97, RC 590
Card 12: 24RC 1x1 1row, L98, R97, RC 590

Card 39: 30RC 1x1 2RC, L97, R96, RC580/592

Card 43: 30RC 1x1 2RC, L97, R97, RC632

Card 43: 30RC 1x1 2Row L97 R96 RC632

Card 39: 30RC 1x1 2RC L97 R96 RC580/592

Edge mini card flowing into pattern
If I get around to making baby blankets with any of the other cards, I'll add them

Saturday, January 28, 2017

Tuck Stitch Baby Blankets from the Harmony Guide

Last year in the last days of the Olympics, I punched out some new cards from the Harmony Guide to Machine Stitches from Chapter III Tuck stitch patterns to use in blankets. The book is out of print and after many, many attempts at finding out WHO know owns the copyright - nope. Noone knows. As I'm taking liberties with one chapter of the OP book, all is well.

I didn't realise I didn't finish the blog post, still in draft - trying to track down the copyright, it was, but I did remember that I didn't put up the numbers for my newly punched cards. Which is why it wasn't on the blog when I went looking for it. Promise I will press Publish this time!

The Harmony ones have the two row tuck so I made a 30 row one for both ends. The added bonus is that it can be moved over the tuck pattern to line up the start line in the middle of the design. More on that latter, when I get to it.

The first two are the Anne Alexander and Gladys Goodie's patterns with the small Card 1**. I line it up and put it at both ends, making sure the tucks line up.

** For both these pattern cards, I punched out a 24row version of Card 1 (a 1x1 tuck). I clip it onto one end, making sure the tuck panels line up with the tuck strip, Cast on and keep knitting until I can unclip the mini card 1, join the card as normal, then do the rows I want - somewhere between 559-600 usually - then still making sure the end of the card lines up- clip on the mini card till it's finish, then cast off.

The Harmony ones are two row tucks so I punched a 2 row alt tuck, 30 rows in all. It snaps onto both ends, but can also be place on a different point in the card to alter the start and finish point.

I will point out that by the time I finished punching out all of these, I was wanting a Brother electronic machine, and said so to my friend Beverley who said: Did I really want one or was I just punch drunk. Funny lady. Of course she was right, but now instead of two patterns to choose from for the baby blankets I knit, I have 10. Very happy I spent the Ravellenics on punching out new cards.

Sunday, January 22, 2017

brother KA7668 Needle Selector for KX machines

Beverley has this little brother plastic KA7668 needle selector. I'd never seen or heard of it but, she assured me it existed AND it was for the KX395 convertible 4.5 and 9mm machine. AND would it work on the KX350 7mm machine?

It only goes from RIGHT to LEFT.

So it's in my hands for a whole month - but that's besides the point. What Beverley was wanting to know was:

Does it work in the KX350 7mm machine?

So first thing I did was turn it over and measure it's undercarriage.

The instructions say for the 9mm, 8 needles must be hand selected into B postition and 16 ndls for the 4.5mm setting.. interesting thought me.. why not 10? or 20? making the working mechanism 9mm, but no 9mm x 8 is 7.2cm - so I'm thinking maybe it will work on 10 preselected on the 7mm. I was able to test out the why later..

Now for the photos to show how it all works.


First I tried on a small selection, testing out the 10 needle pattern

Next, I tried the whole bed, still with the first 10 preselected, needles must be in B and D

 in two setting, one was 1x1 rib and the other a varied rib

And neither worked on all needles in work.

But putting the very first needle out of work did, but not with the 3x1 rib

It was not necessary to ONLY choose the first 8, 16 or 10, repeat of the pattern for 1x1 rib, a ruler's worth of preselected worked just as well, the only time you'd need to do this is for when you wanted the pattern to repeat differently. Getting a 4, 8 12 etc pattern wouldn't work on the 7mm machine, it works in multiples of 10. But it makes sense of the 72mm measurement for 8 or 16 needles on the other machine, and this one would have to have the long plastic tongue measure 56 mm. And no I'm not going to have at Bev's doodad!

I can't say if the very first needle would have to be out of work on the KX395 convertible, but it works a treat on the KX350 with one less needle on the right.

And so now I can say.. YES Beverley, it works perfectly on the KX350 as well for 1x1 and 3x2 rib and any other 5 pattern repeats only. Thank you for the lenda and an interesting morning..

Sunday, January 1, 2017

Smocking from Knits for Joy 101 Experiments

I go to Fay Butcher’s Passap club meeting for Duo 80s. and she had a wonderful adaptation of the Silver/Studio SK machines pamphlets 101 Knits for Joy. These pamphlets are all well out of print and so I can cite the source, not me, not my work, I can share the document with you.
Here is a scan of the whole pamphlet, a resource no longer available and I know I certainly haven’t seen a live one of any of the Purls of Joy, never knew they existed.

For smocking on a Passap, here are Fay’s ideas:
Use one end rayon and 2 ends boucle, or similar thin yarn.
Working on the back bed, use the cast on comb on your waste yarn, black strippers and drop the bed when forming the pulled up smoking.
Using the adjustable selector ruler (WMK61) set at 5:1 as there will be five spaces between, pushing up the pushers to identify the correct needles.
Being clever Passap knitters, the rest is easy to follow along with. And here is what I was experimenting with on my SK280 and intarsia AG20 carriage.

The instructions are fairly simple – although I did come unstuck in the beginning. Oops.
Start with waste yarn, ravel thread
6 rows Col 1 (red) and then 4 rows Col 2 (white)
That’s the start only.
Next bit is the repeat:
6 rows Col 1 (red)
2 TWO rows Col 2 (white)
Then pick up the loops on the previous white on needle 2, then 8, 14, 20, 26 and so on –
2 TWO rows Col 2 (white)
6 rows Col 1 (red)
2 TWO rows Col 2 (white)
Then pick up the loops on the previous white on needle 5, then 11, 17, 23, 29 and so on –
2 TWO rows Col 2 (white

I did two ruler’s worth, that’s easiest for me.

I used a thinner red and slightly thicker white. I used the main carriage with the white, T6.1 and the intarsia carriage for the red, T4.1. Starts with 6 R red, 4R white, then begin the repeats 6R red, but only 2 TWO rows white.

Per the Purls of Joy pamphlet, start on the right hand side on needle 2, then every 6th. I used the 7 prong tool to make it easy to mark out every 6th.

I liked the top two white only ones, you might like a different set, but only one loop

Here are the two loops I mean.

Knit two more rows.

Then repeat with start on the RH side on needle 5 then every 6th.

 And here are some using the intaria carriage notes

I moved all the needles out to hold them pushed them back so the latches are near the gate pages, make sure all the latches are open then do the 6 rows of red. It was easier to have the white on the main carriage, however if the fluffy yarn is going to be used, then the intarsia will have to be used and it's a bit more work to set up the needles for the smock threads.

And here's what the other side looks like:

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Ravellenics 2016

Had another excellent time knitting while the Olympics were on TV. And over at Ravelry, another Ravellenics were underway to celebrate that other sport - Craft, knitting- machine and hand, crochet, loom and that other activity that never appears in the real Olympics - that chance to undo something that has done terribly, horribly wrong - the Frogging event - where it's possible to undo the entire project so it can be made into something else. Now how many athletes at the Olympics wouldn't like a rerun?

So for this year, I did a pair of felted slippers, a pair of socks and two baby blankets. Here are the medals for them:

and Laurels

and we made our own machine medals:

And this year I wanted to punch out some new tuck stitch cards. which doesn't come into any category, but I managed to have five new ones to use.