Friday, October 16, 2020

There's a Bear In There - Machine Knit Shapely Harry Bear

Berroco has given permission to use their Harry Bear pattern and photo as a base for my machine knit version. The original handknit pattern can be found here https://www.berroco.com/patterns/harry-bear

I was trying to find a nice looking teddy bear pattern to machine knit. There are many quick and easy machine knit patterns available. This is not one of them. It is a slow knit and lots to do. I have no complaint about the available bear patterns that you can make in 30 minutes, fine if you want to make one of those. But I didn't.

The pattern has slight adjustments and reworded so it’s easier to knit on the machine. Therefore, it’s not a quick knit, there are increases and W&T in the same row and there is something to do almost every second row, sometimes every row. 

Any machine that will knit the chosen yarn is good to go. I did mine on the LK150 midgauge. T4 on the LK150 with Ice Yarn Eyelash, plated with 2/28 cashmilon, both acrylics. I used safety eyes and noses which I bought from Aliexpress in China, and cut up 2cm squares of felt to put between the eyes/nose and the washer in the inside, so they cannot be pulled through the knitting. 

A .pdf copy of the pattern is available on Ravelry

es = each side. The bear is completely symmetrical. Always the same shaping each side, even the ears, which are worked separately on each side of the head, nonetheless, they are identical. 

RC = the row counter is used to track how many times the carriage trips the row counter. The number on the row counter corresponds to the set of actions until the carriage moves. Also the needles in work are indicated in brackets at the end of each row. Every second RC is LtoR knit unless otherwise stated. 

2PT & 3PT: 2 and 3 prong tool, use either to move edge stitches out one needle (inc) or in one needle (dec), ALWAYS BOTH ENDS, the original pattern has increases on the edge, not a good idea on the machine. Increases are heel of the adjacent stitch, I liked from the centre outwards towards the edges. 

2PT Inc all needs in work

PRE INC are necessary to allow the following row increases to be carried out. (increasing 10 to 18 is tricky) If unable to do all the increases in the designated row, increase in the following row (a little fudge but it works in a pinch). 

2PT Pre inc: Use 2PT to inc to move 1 ndl outwards leaving 3rd needle each edge empty, bring empty needle into work, knit, undo the loop to free up extra yarn for increases that RC. One row has x2, for increasing 10 to 18sts. 

W&T wraps. Written eg 1H, 1n x 3, breaking that down to each component: 

    1H, 2H, 3H etc means 1 or more needles are out to hold 

    1n or 2n etc means how many needles are being wrapped, each short RC

    x1, x2, x3 etc means how many times to repeat the wraps 

Set the carriage to hold, bring out the number of written next to H on the opposite side to the carriage, knit that row, bring the needle next to it out to hold to wrap it and ONCE ONLY bring out the H needle number on the RIGHT, then wrap and turn till done. When finished, W&T 1H, 1n x 3 will have four needles each end out to hold. Finish off, COR, push left needles at opposite side of carriage back to UWP, knit (doing final wrap at the same time) take off hold and continue knitting all needles. 

Knitting off W&T, 4 needles
in UWP knit that row, then
take off hold, knit all sts next row.

Cx INC or DEC 1sts each side. Pull centre needle/s out and increase or decrease each side.

NA: Needle arrangement Arm additions require 9 sts of WY ready to commence arms OR don’t bother and ewrap. Front arms. WY instead of picking up sts from back is up to the knitter. 

BACK 

Legs x 2

Cast on EON 3ndls MT-2 

RC 000 MT 

RC 1: Knit (6 sts) 

RC 2: 2nd and even rows, unless otherwise stated, Knit (6) 

RC 3: NA: 1.1.11.1.1 inc dots (10) 

RC 5: W&T 1H, 1nx1 es (10) RC 9 :3PT Dec es (8) 

RC 10 to 16 knit (8) 

RC 17: 2PT Dec es (6) take off on onto far right needles. Make another one, but put on R1 to R6 nds (R2, 4, 6) 

RC19: Joining Row (WS): L7xR6, Inc both edges of centre x (usual heel increases from both) (13) 

BACK BODY 

RC 21: INC 1n each side C3 (15) 

RC 23: NA:111.11111.11111.111 Inc dots from centre (18) 

RC 25: W&T 1H, 1n x 3 (18)

RC 33: DEC 1n each side C4 (16) 

RC 35: NA: 11x11x11111x11x11 Dec x (12) OR 3PT dec x2 es 

RC 37: 3PT dec es (10) 

RC 39 : K 10, Hang WY 9sts (1st arm) (19) 

RC 40: K9 (1st arm), k10, Hang WY 9sts (2nd arm) (28) 

back of bear

RC 41 to 46: Knit (28) 

RC 47: Take off last 9 sts on WY, k to end (19) 

RC 48: Take off last 9 sts on WY K to end (10) 

BACK HEAD 

RC 49: 2PT dec each end (8) 

RC 50: Pre inc 2PT es 

RC 51: NA: 1.1.1111.1.1 inc dots (12) 

RC 52: Pre inc 2PT es 

RC 53: NA: 1.111.1111.111.1 Inc dots, then W&T H3 1n x 2 es (16)

RC 58: Pre Inc 2PT es 

RC 59: NA: 11.111.11111.111.11 Inc dots(20) 

RC 61: K4, +1, k10, +1, k4 (22) 

RC 63: K5, -1, k8, -1, k5 (20) 

RC 65: -1 dec centre sts. then 3PT dec es (17)

RC 67: 2PT dec es then W&T H3 1n x 3(15) 

Ears Prep: 5/5/5 RC 75 slip last 5 to Hold, 5 on WY, 5 sts in WP for 1st ear. K5 (COL) set carriage to hold 

ear increases

EARS 

Row 1 : 1.1.1.11 Inc dots (8) 

Row 2 & 3: Knit (8) 

Row 4: 2PT dec es (6) 

Row 5: 2PT dec es (4) 

Row 6: 1PT dec es. Bind off last 2 sts (I don't to that, I leave last two and graft them to the fronts)

2nd Ear: toddle over the the last 5 sts and.. Work same as the other ear. 

FRONT 

Legs x 2 (second on R ndl 1-6 for ease of join) 

MT-2 Cast on EON 3ndls 

RC 000 MT 

RC 1: (6 sts) 

RC 3: NA: 1.1.11.1.1 inc dots (10) 

RC 5: W&T 1H 1n x 3 (10) 

RC 13: 3PT Dec 3es (8) 

RC 14 to 20: Knit (8) 

RC 21: 2PT dec es (6) take off on 2x3PT and put far right needles and make another one but put ndls 1-6 right (R2,4,6) 

FRONT BODY 

R23: Joining Row: 7.x.6 Cross 2 centre heel increases onto empty ndl (13) 

RC 25: INC 1 each side C1 (15) 

RC26 Pre Inc 2PT es 

RC 27: NA: 1.1111.11111.1111.1 inc dots (19) 

RC 29: W&T H3, 1n x 3 (19)

RC 37: DEC 1 each side C5 (17) 

RC 39: DEC 1 each side C5 (15) 

RC 41: 3PT DEC es (13) 

RC 43: K13, then attach 9 sts from back (1st arm) Right sides together, from WY loops (if this is the first time you’ve knitted it, make a 9st WY, same as the back) (22) 

Picking up the other side

Position on arms
Picking up from back arm cast on

RC 44: K9 (1st arm), k13, then attach 9 sts from back (2nd arm) (31) 

RC 45: DEC 1 each side C3 (29) 

RC 47: Knit (29) 

RC 49: DEC 1 each side C3 (27) 

RC 51: take off last 9 sts k18 (18) 

RC 52: Take off last 9 sts (9) 

FRONT HEAD 

RC 53: 2PT Dec (7) 

RC 54: 2PT PRE INC es 

RC 55: NA: 11.11.1.11 Inc dots(10) 

MT+1 (or a bit more)

RC 56: PRE INC 2PT X 2 ES (10) 

MT 

RC 57: NA: 1.1.1.1.11.1.1.1.1 inc dots, inc from centre (18) 

RC 58: 2PT PRE INC es 

RC 59: NA: 111.1111.11111.1111.111, then W&T: H7 1nx3 (22) 

Front of bear

RC 66: 11X11 pm X for nose BUT I MOVE TWO ROWS DOWN which would be RC64 mid W&T 

RC 67: 1PT X 2 DEC each side of 0, then 2PT INC es (20) 

RC 69: K9, k2 tog, k9 (19) 

RC 71: 3PT DEC es (17) 

RC 71: 6X5X6 pm X for eyes 

RC 73: 2PT Dec, then W&T H3 1n x3 (15) 

Ears Prep: 5/5/5 RC 75 slip last 5 to Hold, 5 on WY, 5 sts in WP for 1st ear. K5 (COL) set carriage to hold. 

Ears: Work same as for back. 

Straight off the machine and after a brush!

Wednesday, October 7, 2020

I've Been Using Eyelash Type Yarns Lately

 I have been using fluffy and eyelash yarns lately on my Brand Spanking New LK150. And I have had to explain this more than once, so I thought it might be good to post.

Eyelash yarn I've been using has a "nap" for want of a better word. The fibres sit flat against the base cord one way, and when knitted WITH the fibres flat against the cord, the machine process knits them in with the cord, making sewing up easy. Knitting against is OK, but I did find it harder to sew up.

Straight out fluffy yarn knits flat and loves a good brush AFTER seaming. 


Hand knitting tends to push the fibres out on the purl side, which doesn't happen with the machine.



But as you can see, it brushes out very well!






Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Undyed sock blanks and Jellybean Dyeing

Back in 2013 I bought a bag of 10 x 100g undyed sock yarn. So I opened up the bag and was going to do some sock blanks and see if I could sell them. 10 is a lot. Then I got side tracked with jellybean dyeing.
I bought a $2 bag of jelly beans from Reject Shop. I already did the sock blanks, 2 ends, T10 on the KX. 80 sts, with a dropped stitch in the centre. and off I went to jellybean dye them.
For both I put down a towel and put a long strip of plastic wrap down to lay the blank on it. I wanted to do stripes. and on the other side I did random plonked on.
Don't use the natural coloured ones, The cheap ones are best.
First batch was a but underdone I squeezed out too much water and didn't sort out the colours first so I didn't realise that there was a dark pink and a red, so they got mixed up,
I started at the red end and used the towel to start the roll up all the way to the end. I didn't want the colours bleeding into the top, so there's layer of plastic all the way through. 
I microwaved for 4 mins on high and took it out straight away. Unwrapped and splashed the vinegar around, rinsed, 
washed and it came out with the colours not through all the layers. Here they are, all wrapped up, before and after.
The unwrapped first experiment












For the next one, I sorted out all the colours first, then cut all the jelly beans into two and put them cut side up, in stripes, both sides, just like the first one. I put the cut black ones right along both the edges. I also chopped up three or four pinks and sprinkled them on the dropped bit. I was pleased with that idea too.
I left the blank a lot wetter and pritzed the jelly beans with some more water before I wrapped them up, same as before.. I microwaved for 2 mins then turned it over. had a cup of coffee and did another 2 mins. I could have done 2 more I think, next time.
Here's the second batch halfway through, with a much better saturation of both ends and the unwrapped blank, after it's vinegar bath, followed by a eucalyptus wash.  
Over on Ravelry we have a whole thread on playing around with this in the Sock Blank Artists Group. And here's the second sock, and the tiny bit left over. And here's the second one, with the colours much more vivid. I like both.





Friday, November 8, 2019

AYAB on KH910 beginner notes

Learning to use the AYAB hack on the KH910, I decided to recreate a punch card project I've done many, many times, putting a mini card 1 or 3 border each end to match up with pattern.
And here's one on the SK280:

These are my notes for me, I haven't used a brother carriage, punch card or electronic..
I thought this was good practice so I can leant how to use AYAB and a brother electronic carriage as I haven't used either before.
Select chosen border card, eg, Card 1 or 3 onto the pattern card, whatever matches.
Plug in AYAB and select the pattern you want to use in the main pattern first to get the correct needle position L and R THIS IS ESSENTIAL so write it in Rav notes so you don't forget.
Note: KCI automatically selects the last needles each end so they knit.
cast on LtoR according to what AYAB has said what they are.
Select border pattern in AYAB
BUZZER ON
expand repeats to needles
COL but far left beyond mark
KC I, but don't select any function, leave it on N
MUST turn on BUZZ, will hear a click, a buzz and another BUZZ as passing the lights
SLOWLY knit 1 row LtoR to preselect needles OR the first couple of needles won't select.
COR: press TUCK buttons
Knit rest of the rows, either stop when it's long enough or...
turn on the buzzer for the long beep when finished.
Two alternative as this point.
TAKE OFF KC1 to K
TAKE OFF TUCK buttons
PUSH ALL needles back into WP (B)
EITHER:
  1. set to slip and move RtoL (or don't actually do any knitting, cause it's slip) TAKE yarn out.
  2. knit 1 row
set up next pattern
COL, as before BUZZER ON
KCI
  1. keep on slip but watch the yarn in the wheels but not if you've taken it out REMEMBER TO SHUT THE GATE when putting yarn back. (It ain't an SK)
  2. knit across.
If 1. look for anything accidentally knitted/ dropped
If 2. undo two rows.
Look at needle set up to ensure the preselected in UWP are the knit and the needles in WP (b) are next to TUCK.
If necessary, change the starting row in AYAB, to say row 2 or 3 and redo the redo the preselect and off to knit 600 rows.. Alternatively, knit 1 or 2 rows and undo the last one or two rows and keep knitting  whichever looks easier on the day.
Close to the end, turn the BUZZER back on so you know when the pattern finishes, then do the same thing, work out that it's tucking on the correct needles and finish the border.

It's a lot easier timewise, to snap the border card on the right row so it matches up with the pattern you want to flow into, undo the snaps and join for the next 600 rows, undo, attach the border and presto. But if that's the machine that's out and the punch card machine is packed away.. well now I know how to do this project.
However, I thought this a very good exercise to familiarise the AYAB and the electronic carriage.
And here it is, and this would after about half a dozen or more false starts, and the blow by blow how to do so I never have to spend a whole afternoon not doing any knitting.

Saturday, November 2, 2019

My notes for Designing in Gimp to use in AYAB

Before starting, work out how many stitches and rows. This is by far makes things easy.
 
Open Gimp

From the top tool bar - 

Select: NEW

Input your sts/row numbers, press Ok

Select VIEW
- Select Zoom
- Fit to Window
- Select SHOW GRID

Select IMAGE
- Select CONFIGURE GRID
- SPACING - type in 1 and 1 in the pixel box
- Change anything else you think you'd like

From the LEFT HAND SIDE PANEL
- Select Pencil Icon
- Your colour, eg black

From the RIGHT  HAND SIDE
Select the RECTANGLE (make a square)

Fill in all the squares of your pattern (black square = hole on a punchcard)

When finished

Select FILE from the top tool bar
-  select export  - savesas a png file, (I've been saving in the PATTERNS folder for AYAB)

 Open in AYAB and knit 

Monday, August 26, 2019

Plating on the SK Single Bed Machine

We were chatting about plating on the SK the other day on Ravelry, then again to a friend. It seems I'm not the only one who had trouble following the manual. Here is the bottom of the page out of my manual, It doesn't look right.  And the important piece of taking the main yarn out and replacing it after, is essential. The trailing yarn MUST be able to slide behind the main yarn in the crescent shaped curve, or IT DOESN'T work. Most annoying. but there it is, twisted yarn before the sinker plate, is no plating.

Here is the slot where you put the latch/tapet tool
Which doesn't help. I turned the sinker plate upside down to try to see what to do.

And you can see the slot behind where the yarn usually sits.
It doesn't look right. The yarn behind is the one that trails behind the main yarn and is placed IN FRONT of it before the stitch is completed. The purl side yarn slides in the slot.

And here's the whole page of confusion.



There is a plating accessory for the ribber that fits all standard and fine gauge ribbers.


Sunday, August 11, 2019

Last little bit on the ScanNCut Punchcards

I bet you thought I'd finish with discussing cutting up perfectly nice bits of paper and turning them into cards to use in the knitting machines.

Over on Ravelry, we have had an excellent discussion on the Passap Group Computer Die cut thread. Lots of interesting results from experimenting with the stock to use that will go through the Deco and Jac. One used "poly paper" - Yupo 85g with great results. When I looked it up - it's the stuff they make pull up banners from.

So off to the local printworks and asked if they sold it? No. Asked if they had offcuts? Well, yes we do. Apparently they were keeping it for someone who hadn't come to collect, so they decided to get rid of it. To me.

I got a huge bundle. With glossy and matt finishes in the thinner, and a few pieces of the thicker, which will be great for Jac cards.

I had one offcut that was too narrow for Deco card so tried out a 24st one to use on the SK280. The SKs have drums that read the pattern from pattern reader "fingers" which are quite harsh on cards compared to the Brother KH mechanism, which has a much gentler action.

My friend said, why was I bothering with a 24st card, blanks are easy to come by and not too expensive? and I wouldn't for a lace card, but this one was from a photo on the internet. I tried to put it straight into the notepad file and was hopeless at it. So onto excel it went and when I expanded it - I found a mistake, fixed it before I cut it. And I think that's a good one for the cutter to do. And the Decos. And the ideas out of my head onto the machine.

The Poly Paper is wonderful, cut well and then went through the machine's reader beautifully and without a mark. Very happy with it. The paper stock I have will be good for something that I want to try out but not keep. Throw it away and cut out another one if ever.

Here's the Poly paper card and the finished tuck stitch blanket. I like both sides. But that's not the point! The card is brilliant.