3D Garter Bar For My Brother 7mm KX350 Plastic Bed Midgauge Machine

smooth side

I recently decided to get a garter bar for my KX350 7mm machine. And found that Kris has discontinued her 7mm range, but an Internet search found a place that is now making 3D 20 prong ones. It looks like the company started in the Netherlands and now has a New York facility. Good news, so I decided to buy them.

rough underside

Now this is the product description and I think it is important to read it because they are supplied as described:

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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

This is a 20 Needle / Tine 7mm Garter Bar: (40 needle version is available in this store) A garter bar is used on a knitting machine to remove the knitted fabric from the needles, turn it around, and replace the knitted fabric back on the needles.    The ability to do this for an entire section of fabric (not just one needle) is necessary for garter stitches, and some lace patterns and cables.  It can also be used if you have a need to temporarily remove a project from the machine. It fits 7mm machines. It can be purchased in sections of either 20 or 40 needles or tines.  Purchase the number of sections as you need, depending on the number of needles in your typical project.   Any number of sections can be used.  The sections fit together and should be secured together using a piece of 1/4” threaded rod with nuts and washers on the ends.  Threaded rod is inexpensive and can be purchased at a hardware store.  The rod should be cut to the length of the assembled garter bars, with enough room to add a nut and washer at each end.  Note that this just needs to hold them together for convenience, it doesn’t need to be tight. The material default for printing this is “White Polished”. Without the “Polished”, the surface of the material is slightly rough.  If you find that your yarn still doesn’t slide easily on and off the garter bar, spray it with several coats of a glossy clear coat spray available at craft and hardware stores.  This will help smooth the surface even more.

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Emery paper 99cents. metal rod $2.50

They have arrived, It is important not to
whinge about the underside being rough, they are and I've highlighted the bit that says that.

So off I went to Bunnings to buy some fine emery paper and a metal bar. Was tricky finding the bar, it was hidden in the very bottom slot and that was the hardest part.

This is what I needed to buy (or in the case of my nail polish - raid). They were right, $2.50 for a metal bar was cheap, but the emery paper was cheaper:

Underside with nail polish - this is three coats

It didn't take long to run the nail file along the underside and any of the prongs with rough edges then the fine emery. Here is a pretty good photo of the underside after I've sanded it and put three coats of nail varnish.

Here are the other four, drying their nail polish

OK now to see how three coats go. There are grooves both sides, which means there's no right or wrong side - this is good. I tried both smooth up or down and I didn't notice much difference. I used some thin cotton to see how it goes - on T2...

What I thought worked better:

• use the single prong tool move the stitches onto the prongs in roughly a straight line. 
• take off the edge claw weights
• don't pull the stitches all the way back - there isn't a groove to put the tips of the needles into

The stitches are captured perfectly over the 20 needles

It works as advertised

So how did I like using them? Most definitely quicker and easier than relatching, even though I only had one 20 needle one dry and ready to try out.

Next - how did it go with all of them threaded onto their rod:

collected the stitches, but missed a few, which is pretty normal for me

Ready to come off the needles. I caught a couple of the prongs taking it off. will experiment with the best way to do that.

The caught prongs created a lot of dropped stitches

All the needles captured. Run finger over the prongs to find any missed. Just pop them on

Pull all the stitches forward to close the latches

As soon as all the latches are closed, pull the stitches onto the prongs

I hope you can see where I popped the rulers in both photos

The bars are flexible and it took several goes to get it to collect most of them.

I pushed the loops on the prongs into a line with the wooden ruler

I put the selector ruler and a wooden ruler between the prongs and the needles

Here it is all done and dusted 100 sts flipped every four rows

Well I do like them, so much better than nothing.

My technique is to

• open all the latches
• attach the bar.
• pull the work all the way along but only to close the latches
• once all the latches are closed, pull the work onto the prongs
• I used a ruler to align the stitches in a row (don't pull them all the way to the end)
• I wrapped the yarn around the end of the bar
• take work off the machine
• as the needles are in hold, set carriage to hold and move it to the other side, this also opens the latches, take it off hold
• align up the prongs with the needle tips. I wiggled it just a tiny bit to get all the tips into the slots
• the bar is flat on the top of the needles - almost flat against them
• gently press along the length of the bar to collect the loops above the grooves
• pull the bar away from the work (see photos) and pop any loops that missed the needles
• if here are too many missed, take it off the machine again and repeat (this is why I popped a couple of pegs to keep any of the work away from the needle tips).
• now this is only because the prongs are flexible, whereas the metal prongs aren't
• to stop the bar tips catching in the needles, I placed a selector ruler and a standard wooden ruler into the space between the prongs and the needles.
• remove the pegs on the bar, if used.
• then pull down at an angle, I'd guess about 45 deg, underneath between the needles and the sinker plate.
• put the work back against the machine, rethread the yarn, making sure it doesn't wrap around the rubber wheels
• keep knitting, turning as you require. 

The metal rod worked well. I used a rubber band one end and a peg at the other, to hold them into place.

Remember to take off the claw weights. I used some pegs to LOOSELY hold the work out of the way along the bar. Not tight, that didn't work.

The prongs ARE grabby, rough, not smooth like the metal garter bars, that's for sure. However, It's not such a terrible thing. The stitches don't squirm all over the prongs and stay where they are put. I did have to put a few onto to needles after turning the work, but I also have to do that with the metal ones and because they hold on, it's better, I think.

So, am I happy with them? Yes. Did I find them rough? Yes but not too bad after three coats of nail varnish. I don't think it's necessary to have a slippery high polish after all. I won't be putting another couple of coats on. I like that they don't slip off the bar like I have had on the metal bars.

And like the regular metal garter bars I've used before, they will take a bit of practice to proficient at using them. but after an afternoon I managed really well on the last one. I'm sure that the next project I have for them will be just fine.

Midgauge Merge of Two beanie designs elements into one beanie on the machine

HybridSJ's Quarter Crown Beanie idea

Okey dokey, I'm workshopping a hand knit beanie pattern, Two by Two Basic Beanie to a machine knit version. The designer, Kate Gondwana, has given me permission to use her stitches and cm, which I've converted into rows, with the understanding that I'll link them to this blog post. Thank you Kate, having your numbers makes my life easier.

2nd mock rib, 3rd size exactly

My midgauge is a KX350, but I'm sure SK860, LK150 etc users can put their own 8ply/DK yarns to good use, with the added bonus of using up some of that fluffy yarn that people seem to think I need their mistaken buys in days gone by.

T5: The sts and row measurement conversions are taken from the Two by Two pattern for overall size, with Ravelry user HybridSJ's Quarter Crown for midgauge machines. The quarter crown hat pattern will be issued by HybridSJ, but it's not yet. I'll link it when it's done.

This is straight from Kate's pattern: 

Size	Head Size	DK/8ply		Size	Head Size	DK/8ply
baby	40cm (16”)	55m/60yds		older child	52cm (21”)	90m/100yds
toddler	45cm (18”)	65m/70yds		sm adult	55cm (22”)	110m/120yds
younger child	50cm (20”)	75m/80yds		lg adult	60cm (24”)	130m/145yds

1st size: 72 sts - these were too small for the need this time
2nd size: 80 sts - not needed this time.

3rd size: 88 sts +2sts. first with hung hem and the second with mock rib

4th size: 96 sts +2sts . Pink fluffy T7 and purpley/ bluey/pinky mottle.

5th size: 104 sts +2sts. Deep pin with 16row mock rib - too wide 

6th size: 112 - olive green. Could reduce the rows before crown by 12 if no turn up is needed. A 2x1 relatched rib - hung hem would be better, not worth the bother of relatching IMO.

Cast On: all PLUS 2 for seam.. 72, 80, (88, 96), 104, 112 sts. RC000
Ribbing: If using a ribber 2/2 (not sure about these numbers: T7/7)  8, 8, (10, 10), 12, 12RC (no reset)

or double for hung hem but -1 RC, do +1 or 2MT then RC000 the either same yarn or I did an extra two rows on fluffy yarn, it didn’t seem to have the stretch - maybe do at MT+1? next time? It certainly did use up some scraps. In the end I liked the mock rib best, no extra rows needed.

Continue to RC: 28,34, (38, 42,) 50, 52 RC, where we leave Kate's pattern.

(until hat measures: 9.5, 11, (12, 13.5), 14, 14.5cm, from the cast-on edge).

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HybridSJ has an interesting Quarter Crown hat idea  that I’m doing instead of the decreases in the hand knit - we all know what a pain that is: 

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The Quarter Crown Hat (please see these detailed instructions for clarity- I dilute them down to suit me).

These are the needle divisions, starting from the right set (bold) and then the next section:

Size 1: 74 = 19/18/18/19 (+2 each end 1st and 4th set for seaming)

Size 2: 82 = 21/20/20/21 (+2 for seaming)

Size 3: 90 = 23/22/22/23 (+2 for seaming.) 

Size 4: 98 = 25/24/24/25 (+2 for seaming.) 

Size 5: 106 - 27/26/26/27 (+2 for seaming.)

Size 6: 114 = 29/28/28/29 (+2 for seaming)

Put all but last 19, 21, (23, 25,) 27, 29 in hold. 
-1 eee 2R with extra ONE st on outer ends. 
then till 5sts left on both ends 

Just make sure that you leave enough yarn when starting the next section to sew in both ends, I left one of the needles on that first row to make sure I didn't have 2cm, oops!!!

and 4sts left on the middle two. 
take them off with needles 

Next two sections are 18, 20, (22, 24,) 26, 28 sts, reduce and at the same time, SAYG inside seams.

Last 19, 21, (23, 25,) 27, 28 as first, but the last three sts are on the LH side.

All sizes: 18 sts remain, leave a tail to pull in remaining sts and sew seam.

Thread the 18 sts with tail end of yarn, sew seam, weave in ends.

This was the first one - not enough rows before the crown

2nd one, Hung hem, with the adjusted rows before the crown
I think the fully bit is too wide, more like a brim

1st mock rib with 16 rows - too many but
I liked the mock best

brother KA7668 Needle Selector for KX machines

Beverley has this little brother plastic KA7668 needle selector. I'd never seen or heard of it but, she assured me it existed AND it was for the KX395 convertible 4.5 and 9mm machine. AND would it work on the KX350 7mm machine?

It only goes from RIGHT to LEFT.

So it's in my hands for a whole month - but that's besides the point. What Beverley was wanting to know was:

Does it work in the KX350 7mm machine?

So first thing I did was turn it over and measure it's undercarriage.


The instructions say for the 9mm, 8 needles must be hand selected into B postition and 16 ndls for the 4.5mm setting.. interesting thought me.. why not 10? or 20? making the working mechanism 9mm, but no 9mm x 8 is 7.2cm - so I'm thinking maybe it will work on 10 preselected on the 7mm. I was able to test out the why later..

Now for the photos to show how it all works.

First I tried on a small selection, testing out the 10 needle pattern

Next, I tried the whole bed, still with the first 10 preselected, needles must be in B and D

 in two setting, one was 1x1 rib and the other a varied rib

And neither worked on all needles in work.

But putting the very first needle out of work did, but not with the 3x1 rib

It was not necessary to ONLY choose the first 8, 16 or 10, repeat of the pattern for 1x1 rib, a ruler's worth of preselected worked just as well, the only time you'd need to do this is for when you wanted the pattern to repeat differently. Getting a 4, 8 12 etc pattern wouldn't work on the 7mm machine, it works in multiples of 10. But it makes sense of the 72mm measurement for 8 or 16 needles on the other machine, and this one would have to have the long plastic tongue measure 56 mm. And no I'm not going to have at Bev's doodad!

I can't say if the very first needle would have to be out of work on the KX395 convertible, but it works a treat on the KX350 with one less needle on the right.

And so now I can say.. YES Beverley, it works perfectly on the KX350 as well for 1x1 and 3x2 rib and any other 5 pattern repeats only. Thank you for the lenda and an interesting morning..

KH355 Japanese NaNa Midgauge Plastic Knitting Machine

I had to go and buy one of these.

With thanks to Mitzy on Ravelry, I've manage to work out what the little mystery box is, it's a knitleader that lights up the needles to assist with shaping. And no earthy good if you can't read the Japanese instructions. Never mind it's a lovely machine.

Mystery box which is an early knit leader - all in Japanese

Brother KH355 NaNa carraige

Thanks to Mitzy again, who found the Japanese method of changing the sponge bar. Which I thought would be nice in English. So here's mine

The sponge is enclosed in plastic and is changed from above

The top comes out by pinching the ends

The tape is on one half of the machine

and rolls off

                 lift up the electronic board and carefully remove the old sponge

Brushing out the fluff then insert the new sponge

put the circuit board back into it's clips and line up the lugs at the back and roll forward

locate the white pegs into their slots, making sure it all lines up and press down

 Now my NaNa is ready for a test knit! As far as I can tell, (which means as much as Mitzy could find out for me) it was only made for the Japanese market. But I hope the pictures are interesting.

How I Do Wrapped Short Rows

This is how I do short rows. Other people have their way, and this is my fav:

carriage on hold bring 1 needle out to hold - knit one row

Do the same on the other side

On this first pass I hold the second needle down

But some people just put it back - I find it will still come off the needle this way

I use the 3 prong tool instead - just under the stitches you want to knit - much better than a weight

and for sock heels, this is what I do, keep going 1 needle wrapping each end until a third of the stitches remain.

For more needles between wraps - a skirt for instance. On this one I'm doing 4 needles on one side (cause I borrowed my sleeve and I only have 50 sts), I bring out to hold 1 less needle (3 ndls), put the pong under the first needle held and the next two needles being knitted. When this row is knitted, I will keep the tool there, pull out the needle to be wrapped and knit back - this is a nice quick smooth way to ensure I get a good tight wrap, no stitches dropped or tucked to make it untidy

close up on the right side

this is the sample I knitted

this is what it looks like on the wrong side, but as I'm knitting it I can check it's going well. (and now my sleeve has done it's volunteering to be my short row sample, it's back to regular knitting and is now regular non short row sleeve.)