Some Zoomy Vests

My stash on Rav 6 Mar 2012

I've been working on getting rid of my old WIPs (works in progress). I decided to start finishing them this year, starting with the nearest to finished. Well I finished the body and started on the sleeves. The more I did the less I wanted to finish it, wear it or have anything to do with it. So I decided to NOT finish it, and undo/frog it. So that makes two things I've put back into balls.

 But what started this epiphany, was... I need to make another blue/black vest or three. The ones from last year have suffered from "wearing them all the time".  I have one redish tone one that I can walk out the door, and I machined and hand knit - green! Two green vests. Great! I don't know what I was thinking, just getting them done. Which brings me to my Zoomy. Lauren and her Dad brought me back two packets of 10 Zoomys in different blues from their road trip home from Melbourne, in Dec 2010. Sadly my old Zoomy vest - well I don't think even the needy will want to wear it. It's rubbish. But backtracking to my WIP hand knit problem, I really didn't want to start another handknit until I made them go away. Problem solved, it's no more, it's back into balls.

My Shalom Vest with elledot (Leila's) buttons

So onto the Zoomy. I really need vests, so I made a replacement Shalom for the one that I threw away, and have started a Heather Hoodie on the other packet.

Heather hoodie in progress

And now I'm back to machine knitting. I'll finish off my second Lana Vest this week, then I'll think about whether I pack up Yoko and do something else one of the other machines. Maybe I'll make another Shawl Collared Cardi on it before I do.

Lana Sweater in progress - only sleeves to do

And I went to Spotties and bought some cotton jersey to make some long body/sleeve tees for this winter. I'd like to get them done next week, ready for the cool weather, which I don't think is too far away. I got some nice easy to wear ones from Primark, three plain cotton jersey ones from Lauren's trip to London, year before last and the three I brought back from my trip to London. I must admit I like the 100% cotton ones better and I'm so sick of stuff that is too short. So this year, I'm getting rid of all the too short stuff.


That's enough to be getting on with now I think!

Put Your Pattern on Your Kindle

How to put a pattern on your Kindle so it's easy to read and what do I need on each page?

Here are my three pages I prepared for the Lana Sweater I've just made:

Three pages each one is pasted in separately

I downloaded the .pdf,
then "printed" to onenote.
then select all and ask it to copy to text.
then copy it into a new onenote page.
then set about into editing it into something I can use, different yarn and bigger size, for brushed (shrink when washed) cotton.
I tried making a .pdf directly from one note, but the margin and the font size was too small to read.

Next
After working out what I wanted to do - which is the three pages I've put above, I put each pages into Publisher - I made three pages - then enlarged each section to take up a whole page.
Then made a .pdf
then sent it to my kindle
which was lovely and here it is

One Kindle Page is one page in Publisher/Word no need to magnify

If you don't have publisher, you will need to do your pages in Word - I suggest font size 30+ so it's nice and big. Remember one page in Word/Publisher is one page on the Kindle screen. I do not want to fiddle about with enlarging half of it and missing something, and I want to be able to read it easily.

Next:

What does it all mean?
I try to get rid of all redundant information. I write what I understand and what I don't need is the "how tos" that are on the original pattern. I need to know what setting I need on the machine, how many stitches and rows and when to do something.. basically just that... I don't need words like Armhole Shaping, begin neck shaping - transfer stitches to main bed.

I use the row counter = RC000 to tell me that something has changed. I'm beginning a new something.
I'll run through my back notes :

Back

CO 100, 2:2 ind rib, means cast on 100  = R50, L50 - in Industrial ribbing, (11.11.11 etc on both beds) I only count the main bed not the ribber, if there are two T numbers, I'm doing ribbing and I don't care what the number of needles are on the ribber, there are two under each empty needle.

1R T R + R reminds me to change the dials 

90R T3.2 + 3.2, means after casting on, knit 90 rows with 3.2 on both stitch dials

RC000 - always tells me, something's changed and I will put the two ribber stitches onto the single empty needle. I always do this so I can leave out these words too.

T5.1: +1 ev 6R to 120 sts -> RC72.The single T #  tells me I'm on the main bed increasing 1 stitch each end every 6 rows to 120 sts, then knit straight to row counter 72.

RC000 - oh you know what this means!!!

-8sts next 2R, means I've started my armhole shaping and take off 8 stitches the next 2 rows

-1st ea end ev 2R x15 = 80sts means dec 1 sts each end every 2 rows to 80 sts

-> 78RC means knit straight to row counter 78

-9 sts next 4R (S/R) means using short row method, minus 9 sts each end for 4 rows

Take off and I always knit one complete row across all stitches before I do this but I don't need to say it cause I always do it.

There you are then, what I do for me, so when I'm at the machine, I know what setting to use on the machine and when to do what so I can make one of these, for instance:

Lana Sweater before it was washed

Kindle me Happy

I got a Kindle for Christmas from family, who told me that I could download .pdf files and I could make them from Onenote. I also knew I could make them from Publisher.

The first try was from one note:

... which I couldn't get large enough print, or reduce the margin. Maybe there is a way to do that, but, next I tried from Publisher. One page in Publisher is one page on the Kindle. Perfect!

And here I am making my latest top on Yoko, Lana Sweater in Wild Lavender 8ply Cotton from Bendigo Woollen Mills. Kindly stashed by myself over a year ago.

Chemo Hats and Headband Cast On Comb

My friend called the other day, she was not having a good one. Instead of going to the hairdressers to get her hair dyed a delightful red/brown, she had to get it cut off as great big chunks of it were coming out. Is my friend Lyn worried about the Chemo, radiation or operation.. or even that she has cancer? Nope none of that, her prognosis is excellent - she will be in good health again on the other side of all that - no, no, not my dear friend, she was really down about her hair. So I thought I'd make her some new hat hair until she gets a wig later this month. And here is her happy self, wearing one and clutching the other:

She loves her new hat hair so much she wore it to the clinic for her radiation treatment and they were quite taken with her hair, so I asked her if they would like some at the clinic and they said yes, so last Sunday I made them all in a single line.
And here they are, I had all this stuff in a bag to send to Vinnies, I must be meant to keep it to make hats!!! Who knows? I took three packets to Lauren when I went to London last year, the bright and colourful ones and here are the brown ones. I was going to make trauma teddies - instead I'm making hat hair!! Oh well, as long as it's something!

I haven't had any success with the same single bed cast on I use for the other Singer/Silver Reed machines. e-wrap works, as does the double or knit back e-wrap.

Sandy sent me a make your own cast on bomb thingy like the Brother one, out of bobbypins and while I was at the hair place I saw a wire tooth metal headband that I thought looked very promising. So I bought one. Well it really works well. I threaded a bit of wool scrap through it, but.. I really think some hat elastic like the Bond set up would be even better. Anyways, here is a photo of it at work:

Sadie, Yoko, Cast On Experiments and the Pridham stand

Well Yoko aka Sk860 midgauge does fit on the Pridham's stand. There's not a lot a room for much, but it fits, just, and it's a very sturdy stand for a heavy machine.

I've been trying to get a neat ribbing cast on on it, and the last thing to try is the WY first, one row of ravel cord then pretend it's not there.

Here is the photo of both, the one on the left, is straight onto the comb and the one on the right is WY first.

The photo isn't as clear as it should be, but, the WY one is a lot better and worth the hassle. Plan C will be to do the ribs on Miss Pinky Passap, which is no hassle, but I'd have do waste yarn and take it off, and rehang it anyway, then I'd not bother and do the whole thing on the Passap, and it would be too stiff. However, I do need to get this machine learnt and I can't do the 10ply on the Passap.

Some notes for me for next year when I forget what I did:

Do the WY exactly same setting as the project except don't bother to rack back, just leave it in set up for a couple of rows of waste yarn, one row ravel cord, then pretend it's not there and cast on with the main project yarn.

Now some Sadie notes:
Machine: SK860+ribber, with 5 x 200G Bendi Rondo 8ply in Plum.
2.2 IR rib, T2.2/2.2 C/O WY knit a few rows then begin.

I'm doing the largest size, plus a few extra stitches so I can have a few more rows into the raglan. It's coming along.

Back: L55/R55 in 2:2 IR T2.2/2.2 90 Rows. RC000.
Transf all ribber needles onto single needle on MB. 110st T4.1
+1ea end ev 4 (but if I ever make another make it 6) to 124sts
-> straight to RC56. RC000
-9 x 2
-1 ea end ev alt row, but also the first 2 return rows (that 4 dec ea end ev row).
to 32sts. Cast off.

Fronts: L22.R25, same as back, but decided the have a 2st purl gutter next to front band (nos are 49st, +1 to 56 =RC32)
straight to; RC 48 on NE -14 tot = -1 NE ev 5rows.
At RC 56. RC000
AE: -9. -1 AE ev row x 4, then alt rows. RC62.

Sleeves: L33.R 32, 2:2 IR to RC54, RC000
transf for 66 sts - one end moved from R32 to R33 and 2 sts from ribber onto the two empty needles.
+46 sts total = +1 ev 4 rows to 112 sts
to RC98. RC000
-9 x 2, -1 each end next 4 rows, then alt rows to RC62
Front AE is 62RC, Back AE is RC70
over next 8 rows, short rows on FAE side x 6 sts ev 2nd row while still doing dec on BAE
to RC70 - 24sts (shortrowed so do one more over the lot, over the back and onto the other sleeve to make it nice and even). Cast off.

Bands:
P/U .. sts 2:2 IR rib 14 rows. x 1
P/U .. sts 2:2 IR rib 7 rows, work out buttonholes, 7 rows.

Collar:
C/O (ewrap) 90sts knit 4 rows, garter back over, knit 6 rows.
S/R -6needles, knit 2 rows (maybe flipover?) .. tba. no, no, non of that worked.. instead, as all the people on Rav say - do the collar in one not two pieces, and that doesn't work too well on the KM for a couple of reasons - not enough needles and too much flipping and increasing, quicker to knit and much less likely to drop stitches and make a mess.

*Here's what I did instead:

Collar on 4.00mm needles:
C/0 90 x 2 - pm centre back (CB) 180 total.
S/R sequence:
Row 1: knit to last 6 W&T **
Row 2: purl to last 6 W&T
Row 3: do increases*** but count from end, not the W&T, to 2 before CB, W&T
Row 4: purl to end
Row 5: knit across to CB count increases knit to end
Row 6: purl to end 2 sts before CB, W&T.
Row 7: knit to end
Row 8: purl

4 rows on neck edge and centre back, 6 rows on the bits in the middle.

** I did Japanese wrap and turn technique - instead of wrapping around the needle, put a paperclip or bobby pin on the yarn next to the base of the first stitch after turn, then when time to knit back, pick up the pin/clip and knit it with the first stitch that wasn't wrapped. It really gives a beautiful finish. (Here is where I first saw how to do it and shows it much clearer than my words)
*** I did my increases - counting from each end and each side of the centre back, 11, 6, 6 ... middle bit ... 6, 6, 11 - CB - 11, 6, 6, middle bit, 6, 6, 11.

*HOWEVER, after doing that a couple of times and reading to the end of the instructions, I thought of a much better way:

On the short rows and increase block of rows (and PUT IN THE MARKERS, you'll need them):
Row 1: work to last 5 or 6 sts (6 is better) W&T
Row 2: work to last 5 or 6 sts W&T
Row 3: do all the increases as written or make up your own, but make life easy and do the increases next to the marker, and work to last 3 sts W&T.
Row 4: work to last 3 sts W&T
Row 5: work to end
Row 6: work to end (all stitches)

Making two rows on the ends that have to be squished on top of the front bands.. Honestly!!! The less rows the better.

This is the first project I chose to do out of my 2012 bag of not done projects. It was really painless, very convenient, all I need to do is get busy. There looks to be about 10 projects for Yoko. I'm not too sure if I'll do all of them in one go, but I'm trialling getting out a machine, doing a couple of projects and putting it away. Perhaps I'll tackle half of them then do something else, well see. I want to do a pair of fair isle socks next. I can see a time when I'll just get it out do a project or two and put it away again, topping up as things wear out.

Felted Slipper Boots

Working notes for felted slippers with longer ankle section.
Theo wants a pair. He loves the pair I already made him, but would like the next ones to have higher legs section, so his ankles don't get cold.

Theo's beloved slippers - before they were felted

I'm trialling a pair structured this way and Loz is crash test dummy.

Made on my midgauge SK860 aka Yoko, using that fabulous Bendigo Rustic 8ply. Which felts like the clappers, as we'd say. However, 8ply Bendi isn't the thickest - even felted, so I thought I'd make them with some padding. And to help me identify which area/s need improvement I did each section in different colours.
inner sole - bluestone
inside ankle - green tweed
outside ankle - damson
heel - green tweed
sole - damsom
toe green tweed
upper - damsom
Well, without any further adooo. Here's what I did.

It is necessary to know how long/wide you are going to make the foot section. The inner sole covers the entire section, from half of the heel and toe. I'm not sure if the the heel side of the short rows and the top of the toes need to be doubled as well or if fully lined would be good.. We shall see.

Make two inner soles:
Cast on 26 sts on WY, with MY, T8, knit one row, set carriage to hold. RC000.
put centre 8 needles and all 9 needles on the right to hold.
knit one row.
pull out 8 stitches on the left, wrap needle next to the carriage (side)
knit one row and wrap the yarn under innermost needle in hold and working from the centre to the outside, alternative bringing one needle into UWP on the opposite side to the carriage and wrapping under the next needle towards the outside each time, until the end.

In other words, identify the centre panel of needles and each time - wrap the needle on the same side as the carriage and put one needle back into work on the opposite side - each row - but wait, there's more to do..

Side levers go forward. and I left them there for the entire project.
Ev 4th row EON alternating slip stitch is worked.
to do that - leave the carriage in hold and the outside needles don't knit. but with the 1:1 ruler, bring every second needle to Upper Working Position (UWP) and set the carriage to slip. The needles in UWP are knitted, so make sure the first one is next to the new stitch being brought back into work.

Yes I know this is a little bit of work, and I did need to concentrate, but once I got into a rhythm, it went well.
My notes say:
C026 WY, 1 row, working short row from the middle 9/8/9 and EON slip st ev 4th row..
Keeping the EON every 4th row - and I found alternating which needle was slipped gave an evently felted result. (from the experiments I did on the bag a few weeks earlier).
Work K 60 rows then
short rows to 8, take it off and set aside until it's time to graft onto outer sole.

Now onto the ankle part.

I thought doing this in one whole piece was a better option than doing it in two sections. I trialled doing the joining seam in the back and the other one in the front. Loz will tell me which one is better.

Inside and outside pre felted shown

Cuff - I'm not going to explain how to do the slip EON alternating needles ev 4th row - see previous instructions.

CO 63 (1 for join) T8 - cuff on WY, change to Col 1, then 1:1 EON slip st ev 4th row 30 rows change col 2.
knit 2 rows, pick up loops from slip st EON and continue on till all rows /loops are worked.
T9 - join together 1 row.
T8 - Divide up 13/5/26/5/14 (= +1 for join) which is for back/sides/front/sides/back
take off 26 = for front in the middle of the work, then the 5 each side onto bobby pins then transfer the 13 and 14 (overlapping the centre stitch for 26 sts getting ready for the heel to be worked. Change to heel colour short row down to 9/8/9 join inner sole on all needles and work short rows out. - joining loops from slip stitches ev 4th row EON.

Change to under sole colour and reset RC AND keep a note of where you are with the every 4th row pick up loops.....
Theses are the things that are going on at the same time:
putting on the loops from the inner sole every 4th row
putting on the side stitches one at a time from the bobbypins (ten times in total)
putting the bar from the inner sole onto the end needle after the side sts only (ten times in total)
NOW pick up those side stitches, on opposite side of the carriage, pick up one of the bobby pins and put it on the last needle AND a side bar from inner sole, but just for these 10 stitches, AND keeping the putting the loops from the inner sole every 4th row (don't forget), for the first 10 rows - opposite ends of the carriage is having side stitches put on from bobby pins, loops are onto the correct needles every 4th, when that's done, continue to RC 60 rows, but don't join to the inner sole - that's done when the top is formed.
Now change to toe colour and work short rows to 8, attach the end of the inner sole, continue graduations back out to 26sts, change to top colour and join to both sole pieces SAYG to end.
Graft (kitchener) to cuff.
Secure and weave in ends.
Felt to desired size.
Stitch and row count may have to be adjusted. Loz will let me know if every second row would be better, whether the back of the heel needs to be double thickness - top of toes? top of foot? too soon to tell.

Felted Fibonacci Bag

Continuing on with Slip Stitch Felted things. And my fascination with Fibonacci stripes... I have made a felted bag.

Done on my SK860 - Yoko in more of the 8ply Rustic I bought for felting. It was cheap, what can I say. And I don't always have to have bright stuff, I can do subtle.. Really!

The Fibonacci sequence is 21, 1, 13, 2, 8, 3, 5, 5, 3 8, 2, 13, 1, 21 rows in alternating colours. I don't cut the yarn, instead I pick up the colour from the side it was on last - much, much easier having no ends to weave in and the felting squishes them rather well.

The first thing to do is prepare the inside gussett.
T7: on WY cast on 70 sts, change to main yarn and do the EON slip stitch every 4th row. Work 20 (or more) rows. Take off with deckers, WY, garter bar - whatever and set aside.

Now the the bag itself.

T7 ***( I did 7, but if I make it again I'll try it on 6 for a tighter edge only for the folded hem on the top of the bag)
T ?6: C/O 80 work 3 rows,
1 row EON slip stitch, (RC4)
straight to RC7
1 row EON slip stitch (RC8)
straight to RC13
next row pick up slip stitch hem row (RC 14)
straight to RC18
pick up slip stitch row RC19
Knit to 20
Join to cast on row.
Change to T7 and work straight to RC31.
Every 10th Row, begining at RC31, decrease one stitch each end to 70 sts, and begin Fibonacci sequence. I didn't bother with resetting the RC, I counted the sequence while I was decreasing. The last one was on the last row of the 5/5..HERE IS THE LAST DEC.. before change of colour to 3/8.
OTHER SIDE BEGINS IT'S INCREASES at the same point.

When finished the Fib sequence. Change to the base colour, I decided to use the colour I started with (I had more balls of it is why...) Rehang the prepared base liner. (I used a different colour cause it was left over from the slippers and I only had enough for 20 rows).
It's on the inside of the bag so it doesn't matter.
work 3 rows , hang the slip loops every second needle and repeat till the loops are all worked, work 3 rows, join the cast on edge. I didn't offset the loops, kept them on the same needle every 4th row - yes it does make a difference to the finished felted result.

Next thing is to reverse the sequence colours, remembering to increase 1 st each end at the beginning of the ..5/5 row sequence.
Reverse the bag edge, REMEMBERING TO do the slip stitch row on the 4th row (and yes I did forget and have to undo the stupid thing and do it properly). Join again by either, slip stitch or kitchener it.

Sides and handles: RC000.

Pick up 10 stitches (the bars) from BOTH the outside and liner onto the same needle.
Using sew as you go, join as you work to the beginning of the folded hem. Stop and put on WY etc.
Do the other side the same.
When up to the Stop and put on WY etc, put onto garter bar and flip it over, to do the underside of the handle.
Move the carriage to the side that has the yarn joined to it.

Handle: Keep going with the sew as you go on the inside foldover and;
Work 3 rows
Work 1 row EON slip stitch ...But the next time alternate the needle it's going on. Exactly like the sock heel flap.. makes a big difference to the handle's finish after felting, so yes it's worth doing. I used the needle selector ruler, put it on the side that the first needle next to the carriage pushed up that sequence, then put it to the opposite side so the next turn to do the slip stitch row, the first needle on the other side pushed that set up.
keep going (alternating the needles being pushed) to RC 180 or more and begin the sew as you go on the inside of the fold over AND the slip stitches every 4 rows.
Take off the machine (garter bar is good) re hang, making sure it is NOT twisted, loop side is facing out, rehang the held stitches from the side.

Working sew as you go on the opposite side to the carriage the whole way, work 3 rows, pick up the loops to the end. take off and kitchener stitch to the other side so it looks neat.

Weave in ends. There isn't any sewing, it's all done. There aren't any ends from the stripes either, because the carriage is moved to the side of the next colour.

Felt.

I used the dryer as the front loader isn't as good for this.

Hand washed all the stuff I'd knitted for felting (a bit of red dye came out of the hats and slippers.) I washed in hot water, rinsed in cold, then hot, then cold until the water ran clear and chucked one bag, one hat and 8 slippers into the dryer, I stopped it every couple of minutes to check on things. The bag was done first. I didn't want to felt to too much, and it was done at a lower stitch size - I didn't give it as much room to felt down. (then the slippers and then the hat for 5 mins extra).

The wool I used last time to felt wasn't going to give it up and I had to chuck it in the front loader on hot wash with a pair of jeans. But the Bendigo Woollen Mills Rustic is a dream to felt.

Slip Stitch Brim on Two Hats

I bought some Bendigo Woollen Mills Rustic 8ply in 50g balls from the Sydney Craft and Quilt show in June. I wanted to do some felting experiments with slip stitch as an alternative to garter stitch on the SK860 mid gauge aka Yoko.

Basically, they are the same hat design, but in different sizes so I could felt one.

I'll write up the unfelted hat first, it's a beanie with a sun visor is what it is.

Prepare the Brim first:
T4: Cast on 50, (ewrap), and do two things at once: every 4th row, do one row EON slip stitch, (two posts back is details on how to do this). First thing is do short rows, 1 needle end of every row down to 17 sts and then do two rows, starting across the 17 sts, to the end, one complete row then a part row back to where you started and short row back.
On the way back, pick up a loop and put it on every second needle (EON).
Put the cast on edge but don't knit. Take off machine however you like, WY, garter bar, knitting needle.

Crown:
Cast on 120 + 2 (one extra on each ends 11.1.1 ~ 1.1.11) EON for a mock rib. work 20R. Join up the cast on edge into the empty needle, don't knit yet, put the brim on.
However, what I did in the photo was put the brim on top of the mock rib, however, I put it UNDER on the felted one, which I liked better.
Next, knit one row, mock rib, both edges of the brim, all in one row. Reset RC to 000.
Work straight to 50 rows.
skipping the Edge stitches - don't count them, they are being sewn together. (What we are doing is K2tog, k6 repeat to end). put needle 2 onto 3, miss the next 6, then needle 10 onto 11, and so to end and fill in the gap = rehang however you like - garter bar, waste yarn, circ needle. knit 4 rows.
Reducing the missed stitches by one needle each time, do this twice more (three lots of 4 rows inbetween), then every second till there are no more stitches inbetween.

I completely messed up the first one because I did not make sure, before I did the 2togs, that I was on the correct needle and that I had the correct number of needles inbetween.

Finishing: take off, thread through the loops, sew up back seam, weave in ends.

Next are the numbers for the felted version:
Brim:
T7: C/O 72, short row sequence: 1 sts at each end 10 times, then 2 sts each end to 22 sts and back, while doing the slip stitches, EON every 10th row.
Crown:
C/O 160 + 2, EON mock rib, 20 rows, same as the other one.
Join the end of the rib, cap under the rib, knit one row.
Knit 16 rows,
Skip the first needle, then 2 tog, 8, to end, three times. (three sets of 16 rows) Same, reducing of the needles inbetween,
then do the same every 4th row till none are left.

Finish the same.
Felting. I had a real feltathon so in it went in with 4 pairs of slippers and a bag. I have a front loader, so I hand washed them all, got the excess dye out of all the red things, rinsed till clear, made a pathetic effort in squeezing out the excess water = put them all in the bucket and chucked them all into the dryer on super hot. Which was ok because they had just come out of a hot/cold/hot/cold hand wash cycle. I checked on them every couple of minutes, redunked the hat, took out the bag, and they them all another bash around the dryer, took the socks out then it had another 5 mins to really shrink down.

I thought the brim felted in an interesting pattern, the EONs were in line on the same needle. I really like the result, much better than garter stitch, which makes also makes a thicker piece where you need it but always looks - lumpy, doesn't it.

Slip Stitch Stocking Stitch Hem Edge

After I did the slip stitch socks, I was surprised to see it at our knitting club meeting last June.

We are going through one of the older no-longer-knitting ladies' sample book. It's a lovely collection of samples. Margaret was "picked" (we all duck under the chair when asked "who's going to show us something from the book next month") and she chose this one:

Knit your band however you like, WY, ravel cord, ewrap, whatever, and knit half the band. Bring EON out to hold, set your machine to either PART; Russel levers | side levers forward; ***BX (but I'd do that on the back bed and drop the FB for the next part, but that's me). knit one row.
Return setting to what they were before.
Knit three rows.
Pick up loops (every 2nd needle has a loop)
knit second half of the band.
Pick up stitches from beginning and join in your usual manner.

I liked this so much I decided to do some experimenting.

Edit: ***
or you could bring them up on the back bed, GX/N the next three rows and transfer them to the FB. But really the Passap do such a lovely cast on anyway, I wouldn't bother.

Loz's Slip Stitch Heel Flap Socks

Loz likes the heel flap socks like she hand knits and
was asking can she make them on her KX35o.

So, my bright idea for Lauren's socks are done. I thought. And this is what I came up with.

They could be made on any single bed machine - just adjust stitch count and rows.

The cast on numbers are 20-24, depending on how wide the sock. I did this pair on T4, however, I think T3, 3.1 would be better. A tighter knit is usually preferred. However the thicker socks? Best experiment and see what is preferred.

So.. Cast on and/or not do your cuff of choice. Maybe your cuff of choice is to pick up the stitches and knit the ribbing? Maybe drop back and latch up? Or mock rib? Hung hem? Pick one.

then roughly 30-40 rows to heel

RC000. Set the KX35o to Partial knitting on the left side (flip the side lever up). Do that on the SK860, but also flip the dial to Slip. (Apparently Punchcard No. 1 does it automatically - Doesn't help if you have neither of these machine, but if making these on a standard punchcard? Good, go for it).

Ok back to doing the slip stitch heel flap.

Starting on L10, bring EON up to hold (so only they knit) PLUS THE NEEDLE ON THE OTHER END.
Knit 2 rows.

Now starting on R10 bring up EON PLUS THE OTHER END NEEDLE.
Knit 2 rows.

Repeat these four rows for (say) 22 rows. (Always - BOTH ENDS NEEDLES WILL KNIT)

Turning the heel:

This bit is surprising tricky.

Identify one third of the needles in the centre.
It is MUCH easier if the end numbers are divisible by 2....
for 20 sts: 6/8/6
or 22 sts: 8/6/8 or 6/10/6
or 24 sts: 8/8/8.

Now what you are doing is knitting xxx stitches, k2tog, k1, turn. Sl 1, p xxx sts, p2tog, p1 turn - repeating until all stitches are knitted.

Starting with carriage on the right, identify your centre, and with your two prong tool, pick up the two stitches next to it and move them over 1 needle. (the handknitting equivalent of K2tog, K1.)
Either put the remaining needles on the left in hold, or slip them onto bobby pins etc.

Knit one row, bring the needle closest to the carriage out to hold. pick up the 2 stitches on the right and move them over one needle and remove the other stitches (exactly as you have done on the left). knit one row.

Now do this all the for the next couple of rows until all the stitches are back in work:

On the carriage side: bring the last needle knitted out to hold
on the opposite side: bring one new needle up into WP, put the first stitch hanging on the bobby pin onto the needle that was on hold last row and the second stitch onto the new needle.
(what you are doing is: Slip one, knit to last stitch held, knit it plus the next stitch together, knit 1, turn)

Picking up the stitches from the side of the heel flap. 22 rows = 11 sts to be picked up.
I tried picking up the bar - but on the thick yarn, the bump is better. However - after the first one, it's very, very difficult to prize the little blighter loose, so I ran a thin needle up them all and they went on beautifully.

Knit one row.

Do the same to the other side. It is a very big stretch, I made it almost to the end, but slipped a couple of bobby pins onto them, knit one row, then slipped them on and hand knitted them.
knit two rows very quickly - before it gets time to get cranky.

Now, doing the gusset. Fully fashioned is the norm.

Each end. Pick up needle 3, put on top of needle two and move both over one needle and return the end needles to RP.

Knit 2 rows.

Continue until you are back to your original stitch count.

This is a bit of a guess - do xx rows to your toe. Somewhere between 40-50 depending on length of foot and how many rows done in the toe.

But before you do them, identify the correct bar to collect on the way back by putting a marker - bobby pin, paperclip, scrap of yarn on the bar before you start your toes.

Short row toes:
If you have round shaped toes, then do short rows until 10 sts, about half the stitches remain.
If you have more pointed toes, then do short rows until 6 or 8 sts, roughly a third of the stitches remain.

Using the Sew-As-You-Go technique, continue knitting until you are at your cuff stage and match what you did when you began.

I've done step-by-step instructions into a PDF for her. I've popped it on Ravelry download, there are a lot more photos describing the technique.

Download Pattern

Machined Shawl Collared Cardigan

The original Shawl Collared Cardigan appears in Jo Sharp's Knit Issue 1, which has no machine instructions. I have deviated from the written instructions, stitch count, bands and collar shaping. If anything isn't clear, please obtain your own copy of the book and go from there.

Knit on SK860 midgauge + ribber.
5 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Highlands in Cinder.
T5 swatch = 22st/28r = 10cm

All bands start with 3 sts on each end, then 11.11 each bed, HP, weight the end stitches to start with, I used a bulldog clip onto the end of a double ended latch tool that came with the machine.

Back
Bands: T2.2/2.2 MB+R; L65..R65 in 2.2 IR rib.
I use long tail cast on and transferred the stitches onto the needles. you need +200 if you do this way, I left the extra dangling until I hung the combs.
work 20R
Body: Transfer all the RB sts to the MB, the 2 group onto the empty needle. (13o sts) reset RC000.
put waist shaping in if you want, but otherwise ->120R reset RC.
Armhole: -6 ev row twice - I thread onto a little piece of scrap. Then -1 (3rd needle onto second, move both in one st) both ends ev alt row 15 times (88st), work to 62R.
Shoulder: set carriages for short row shaping. Reset Russell levers to | both sides.
bring 3 needles on left to D, knit one row, bring 4th needle to D, (4 needles now out of work),
bring 3 needles on right to D, milk the yarn to ensure tight wrap. knit one row, bring 4th needle to D, continue these two actions 4 more times till you have 44 sts COR.
next row is tricky, bring out your 4th needle, STOP, this is the tricky bit don't knit yet, milk the yarn, as you move SLOWLY to take up the wrap BUT YOU MUST NOT LET THE LEFT EDGE OF YOUR CARRIAGE go past your left side wraps, you have to STOP TO DO RESET:
before the edge of the carriage reaches your wrapped stitches, you do reset your Russell lever LEFT SIDE ONLY to ||, this will take up all your stitches on the left, knit to the end of the row, reset right Russell lever to || knit off your final row.
take off all sts however you prefer, mine go onto the circs I keep for this.

Fronts - make two, reversing the shaping on the other one.
L23/R23 work Same as back, with shaping on one side only.
Note: there is no neck shaping.

Sleeves - make two
L23/R23 work bands same as body. RC000
T5 +1 by moving last sts onto next empty needle, pick up the stitch bar under 2nd needle and place on empty needle, both ends every 4th row to 96 sts (RC100)
work to 120RC. reset RC.
Sleeve cap: -6 next (onto scrap), then as before, 3rd onto 2nd and move both in one needle, -1 each end 18 times (RC38), then ev row 15 times to 12 sts and take them off to cast off or cast off around the posts, whichever you prefer.

Bands
T2.2/2.2 MB/RB L16/R16 2.2 IR rib, work to 140 RC, then + 1 ev 6 rows ALL SHAPING IS ON THIS SIDE, then at RC212 or 72 if you did a reset, place a marker, a paper clip, small piece of scrap yarn whatever you choose, this is your shoulder seam and it makes it easier to sew it up - just saying. I put short rows in here, it sits so much better with them.
**Reset RC000 and BOTH carriages to | (all four russell levers) knit one row. COL.
on RIGHT side, pull the (MB) 1x2, 3x2 and (RB) 3x2 needles to D, knit one row
pull out one needle from MB, milk yarn and knit one row.
pull out 3x2 + 3x2 (but one will already be out on the MB- the wrapped stitch), milk, knit.
repeat last 2 rows,** reset ALL Russell levers to || knit to RC36
repeat ** to **
reverse the short rows, wrapping as you go bring needles to B, set side levers to collect them.
knit to RC78 repeat from ** to ** Reset RC000.
-1st ev 6th row to original stitch count = 72RC. reset RC and knit another 140 rows.

Finishing
do 3 needle cast/bind off on shoulders, align your collar with the shoulder seam and join whichever way you like. set in sleeves with linker, machine or darning needle, finish side seams and weave in ends. As you can see, I had help with this.

Neverending Big Vest on SK860 Mid Gauge

I decided to make a vest in July, to wear to the Bendigo Show. A plain simple vest. Right. Finished it this week.

I'm still learning how to use the mid gauge and decided to do the cast on for the 2:2 IR rib in the book. I tried many times before realising that I was doing it right - but it looked awful because it was awful. I tried to adapt the Passap cast on.. nope didn't work either. In the end I used the Knitted back e wrap cast on (Ch2.5 in Susan Guagliumi's HMS4MKers) that works so well for single bed Passap work. I put three extra to move back a needle to keep it even: I started out with 7 sts, used the double eyelet to transfer 2 sts to the ribber, moved 3 over one needle, cast on 4 more and so on until I had it all done. While it worked I'm still looking for a "perfect" cast on for 2:2 IR on the middi, going to do a crochet cast on next.

I had 3 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Bramble Allegro
and 1 x 200G BMW 8ply Dark Plum 8ply Classic

Now onto the back:
Cast on 2:2 IR, 65L to 65R, T2.2 both beds; knit 20 rows.
On the ribber: leave the 10 centre ones, and transfer all the others into the single needle space on the main bed.
T5 MB and T2.2 Ribber. RC000, knit 120 rows
Armhole: RC 000
-10 next two rows
-1 ev 2rows 9 times
straight to 72 RC
Shape Shoulder:
-8 next 4 rows. (I did short rows, then one more to seal it off)
take off however you like, I put onto circ needles.

Fronts:
Cast on 47 (counting on the main bed, the ribber stitches count as one.
T2.2, knit 20 rows.
transfer all stitches to main bed but keep the ribber up and use the ribber arm
- otherwise... you guessed it... you make it and the tension is different.. so you have to make it again to match the back - and that was just ONE of the many, many undos I did, just warning ya!
T5, ribber up but no stitches, knit 120 rows. RC000
-10
-1 ev alt row 9 times
straight to 72
-8 (Armhole edge) ev 2nd row twice.
make another one with reverse shaping.
Now wasn't that easy? I thought so.

Band
This is where I really, really came unstuck. I didn't buy enough wool and I couldn't for the life of me work out where to get a magic ball (for the non Aussies, one of our famous painters, Norman Lindsay, wrote and illustrated a book called the Magic Pudding, about a pudding that never ran out. A classic children's book here).

Now back to the band... for reasons known to noone I wanted a wide band. And have enough left over for a small sleeve cap.. I really liked the Kaino vest and had this in mind.

Things I tried that didn't work: Do it on the passap with the two colour changer with two rows each of dark plum and bramble. Ran out of wool. Made it thinner, only 5o rows to go.. Ran out of wool. Remade it on the Passap with 6 rows of dark plum across the back of the neck - nope still ran out. Went back to the vest. Did it really have to be that long? OK I could do with 30 rows less. Undid everything. Remade it all with 120 rows.... sigh... Will this vest ever get made?

Back to the band:
Let's pretend I bought enough to do the whole thing in one colour:
Cast on ... heavens I didn't write down the numbers properly, but
11 groups of 2 on the main bed and 10 on the ribber would be good. Take a look on your back and decide if you want it that wide or wider. anyway, here's the numbers:
T2.2
Knit to 140 rows, RC000
+ 1 st every 4 rows (however you like) 18 times (RC64),
knit straight to RC 76 PUT IN A MARKER on the neck edge (where the increases are). RC000
straight to 74 RC. PUT IN A MARKER on the neck edge. RCOOO
knit straight to 12RC
- 1 st every 4 rows (however you like, but looks good if you match the increases). RC76. Reset RC000
work straight to 170 rows.

Of course... I couldn't do that, could I?

so ... one of the Ravelry girls did and excellent job making socks on her single bed, I was very impressed with the clean line she got on the join. After "freeing up" the wool from 3o rows front and back. I felt I was onto something.

So... I made an outer Dark Plum strip, with about 10 rows too many in case I mucked up the maths, with a 7:7 count on the 2:2 rib, but put 3 on each end. one for the roll on the font edge and one on the other side for the join (I did a practice piece to work this out too... I did say this vest took six weeks to make, didn't I?)
then made a shaped strip 7:7 wide, again with the 3 sts (on the main bed) on the edge. Now there isn't a lot of room, so I ran a contrast thread for about 30 or so times (60 rows) so I could pick up that bar on the edge easily. The bar is slipped over the last needle every second row, which was easy to see which one while the cast on bar was in the way, I didn't worry about picking up the cast on row, I started with the first bar and pulled out the marking thread as I went. Yes it did take a bit more time, but I did it all in an afternoon and would certainly use this method again, I thought it was an excellent backup for adding a vertical stripe.

Now onto the Sleeve Cap:
join your shoulder seam however you like. I do the 3 needle cast/bind off.
Then I picked up every row, not the 3 of 4 that is usually done, with the Dark Plum and knitted in the pick up row on 3.25 circs (168 sts), then hung them in 2:2.
Start the short rows immediately. (yep, I did they twice to figure this out too). SET both carriages to short row.
(BUT IF I MADE THIS AGAIN I'd start in the middle and work my way outwards).
Easiest way to explain is - do you counting on the ribber:
on the left side, pull the needles up to the 7th group of 2.
knit 1 row, hang a claw weight,
pull up the NEXT needle on the main bed and pull up the same number on the opposite side,
knit 1 row, hang claw weight,
pull up the NEXT needle on the main bed and pull up 3 on the opposite side,
knit 1 row, continue, pulling up 1 on the carriage side and 3 on the opposite until 11 (eleven) groups of 11 (two) have been short rows (row 18)
ROW 19:
watch what you are doing: slowly start to knit, and when you see the LEFT HAND edge of the carriages clear the stitches on hold and are on the bit that hasn't been short rowed, THEN on the LEFT HAND SIDE flip your russell levers to pick up the short rows. BUT if you don't watch what's happening, you can miss collecting them (yep just one of the many redos on this vest).
ROW 20: flip the russell levers on the right side and knit all stitches.
work straight to RC24, change colour to main and knit 6 more rows.
Cast off however you prefer.

Do the other one.

Things I'd do differently on the next one:
buy enough wool.
the front band thinner - make it the same width as the back
on the shoulder do -5, -5 -5 and add two more rows each side on the bands.
Start the short rows on the sleeve caps in the middle, that would be better.

That's it.
My Neverending Big Vest.

Yoko's First Sock

Well I've just made a sock on the SK860. I've made so many on the Passap. But. I have been given some 8ply (DK) wool - I think it's Cleckheaton Country 8ply - definitely a mill end/remnant from Wangaratta Mill. Looks a bit thick and I did a quick wrap around the only thing with inches I have - an old tape measure and was 10 wpi not 11, it will not be an easy knit on the Passap. So. Time to learn new things today.

first try:
Cuff:
Cast on 48 - T4/4. 16 rows, drop the ribber one click, then transferred to the ribber and knitted one row. I tried out using the garter bar on one side, and moving them on the next. I don't like using scrap knitting. Next time I'll take them off with the circ and put them back on again, though, the garter bar did work. It's just a bit big. If I think I'll make more, I'll invest in a set of decker combs from that fellow in Germany, they are by far the quickest. NEXT TRY: 48 is too wide (with this wool) so 40 or 44 will be better.
Leg:
Next onto the circular knitting.
Setting: T5/7 - 50R (next do 60) apparently the ribber is two numbers higher than the main bed and looking at the finished sock, it's pretty close. BUT. Oh My Goodness... there is a plastic thingy - a D something something, that you have to slide over the ribber needles before you knit the ribber row every time. EVERY TIME! Reminder to self: It's quicker than knitting by hand... and ... annoying.
Heel:
The short rows were easy enough, on the back/main bed. down to 8 and back worked out nicely. Dropping the ribber one click, changing the plate over and back, adding a weight to the heel, all easy.
Foot:
circ to 80Rows worked out well. measured 15cm/6", moved weights, no problems
Toe:
dec each end, each bed, next and every 4th row count (2nd row) to 12sts.

Take photo .. and before it gets too comfortable - undo the lot and remake with a few more rows before the heel and 4-8 less stitches.

Next one was great:
Cuff: CO 44, T3/3 16R, keep comb and weights on. Trans to ribber. reset. for ribber to knit 2 R T7, undo last quarter (11 sts).
drop bed about 2 clicks, move carriages to end, trans end quarters (11sts) to main bed with garter bar, making sure yarn thread is out of the way (wind it on the mast) Reset RC.

Leg: 69R COL,
Heel: drop ribber 1 click, change plates and settings for short rows down to 8 and back. Reset RC.

Foot: change plate and setting for circ, 80R

Toe: dec 1 sts each end, both beds every 2nd row (4RC) to 10 sts.

Graft toe, sew cuff.

Make another one.

Yoko's Rose Jumper

I decided to make a jumper on Yoko and put a rose on it from the electronics.

Here is my pattern for the SK860. I did decided to do the ribbing on the Passap, but that's me.

Back:
Rib CO 116
20R: RC000
T5 -1 ev 10R to 104st
-> RC74
+ 1 ev 6R to 114st
-> RC 134, RC000
Armhole shaping
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 7 82St
-> RC 78
Shape shoulder
-8 ea end x 6 46sts
24/38/24
Front:
Rib CO 116
20R: RC000
T5 -1 ev 10R to 104st
-> RC74
+ 1 ev 6R to 114st
-> RC 124: START MOTIF
-> RC 134, RC000
Armhole shaping
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 7 82St
work to end of motif, do 2 rows
divi: 24/-6/22/-6/26
put 22 on holder and leave the other 30 on hold
-1st NE ev 4thR to 24st (RC58)
Shoulder shaping
-> RC 78
-8 armhole edge x 3 (6R) Cast or I prefer short rows and 3 needle bind off for the shoulder seam)
Sleeves:
Rib CO 48, 20R
RC000
T5 + 1 ev 6R to 94st
-> RC 156, RC000
Sleeve cap
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 18 42St
-1 ea end x 15 12sts

Branching Out Machine Knit (BOMK) Bag

BOMK Bag
Ok here are my machine instructions for the Felted bag Branching out, which can be found on the Lion Brand site. You can find the chart and original instructions there.














I used a single bed machine, garter bar and a two prong tool and a mid gauge machine.
I used Nundle 8ply wool, which would be similar enough to American 10ply, to substitute that.
I transferred the chart to the paper for my EC1 electronic reader. Any pattern you like could work
I used T6 on my SK860

Cast on 63 sts on ravel cord. Stitch requirements: 2/59/2 sts (2 stitches must be each side of your pattern).
Garter Bar: 20 rows garter stich.
put the 2rd stitch onto the 3rd both ends and keep these stitches in work.
knit straight for 30 rows
do chart - 26 rows
knit straight for 16 rows.
Put the 4th st on the 5th, each end (I put the 3rd onto the 4th, but I think one more across would be better)
The divide for the next row: 22/..19.. /22 put the 22s on hold, knit 2 rows on 19 sts only on waste yarn (for your handle, go bigger if you like)
Garter Bar: 14 rows, garter stitch.
you can cast off you you like, or take off onto circs, or waste. If casting off, drop 2nd stitch each end.

Next bit:
pick up 63 stitches from the ravel cord on the first bit and do this side of the bag the same BUT REMEMBER TO put your 2ND OVER TO THE 3RD, and keep it in WP.

Sides, do both sides the same:
pick up 10 sts, straight to 72rows (no need to put your 2nd st onto 3rd, as it drops down to the edge)
Dec 3rd or 4th sts to the inside, both side (8sts)
Garter Bar: 14 rows, garter stitch.

Drop the second stitch from the end on all four pieces.

The really nice side pieces were done straight out of Susan Guagliumi's Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters. Here is her website. Ch. 6, 97 Vertical Ladder Seam














How I interpreted her instructions was to:
with a crochet hook, I picked up 5 stitches, on the bottom of stitch 3, bottom on the dropped stitch, for the middle one, there was a nice little V between the sides, then the same on the other piece, giving me 5 stitches.
**Then 5 rows, (actually it worked out to be 6 rows on the very first one only)
Carriage on R. on the left, pick up the first 4 dropped loops and put them behind the last two stitches (for a more detailed explanation, please see HMS4MKers book).
knit one row
Carriage on L. On the right, pick up the first 4 dropped loops and put them behind the last 2 sts.
repeat from ** all the way up to the top.

Then I cast off the entire top in the camel colour.

Ravelympics 2010

Ravelympics has it's first machine event. Very exciting for us who are participating. Lookie what I got: My captain's medal. How exciting!




On Yoko:
a Branching Out machine bag, I'm doing the fair isle exactly as written, but really thing that sewing the thing all the way through the middle is well.. dopey. I've blogged my BOMK.
















the Rose motif jumper, I've blogged the pattern.













On Miss Pinky:

332m - Ankle socks for me and I made another pair in Graphite.

1668m in a Baby blanket out of the garage find





















the vintage top from Passap book 10 1664

see the prev post, I've made proper notes













Here's some scarves I did on Sunday afternoon.

From the frog pond:
the CPH that went from disaster to disaster. undoing the lot, winding it on the swift, washing it and rewinding it so it can be revitalised into something I'll use.