Tucked Up Lakeside Passap Socks

26 Mar 12 Update: someone is spending a lot of time looking at this post, so I've done a little editing.


21 Oct 12
A lot of someones are spending a lot of time looking at this post, so I've done a lot more editing

19 June 13
 Someone made a pair so I'm putting it back, but it's on Ravelry as a download anyway.



I wanted to try the pattern I'm using on my Henley, so I decided to do a trial run on some Passap Socks I'm putting through the machine. It is the pattern in Passap book 11, number 1682.


I'm going to write out the pattern for my 5ply Chubby Merino sock wool, which will be too big for most. My suggestion is to do thinner yarn and reduce tension to T 5 for the DX/DX pattern and T4.5 for feet. This should fit. Use your usual sock pattern and put this pattern into it on the legs only.

Pattern repeat: 5 stitches

Cuff:

Cast on 60 sts 1:1, N/N, T2, 1R.

T4, CX/CX, 2R. RC000.

T4, N/N, 15R

transfer all stitches to back bed

T6, GX/N, 2R

transfer 15 st each end to front bed.

Leg:

Pattern set up:

Needle and Pusher set up: 1 . 1 . 11 . 1 . 1 (etc) 6 sets of 5 stitches.

The . stitches each side of the . 1 . (centre stitches) are transferred onto the 1 (centre stitches).

T6, CX/CX 2R.

RC 000

Begin pattern begins with

1 . 1 (WP) . 11 . 1 (RP) . 1 and so on.

In other words, every second centre pusher (. 1 .) is put into rest position, 3 will be up and 3 will be down on each bed, alternating every 8th row count.

T6, DX/DX. Manually exchanging centre pushers on RC 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144.

Work in pattern to RC144.

However if using thinner yarn and T 5, trial tucking every RC 1o or 12 to see if you like the look of it better.

R145 = bring all needles into working position. Return all pushers to RP.

Reset to CX/CX

knit to RC149, lock left. (or Knit to your preferred length, leaving a few rows in st st before heel.)

Heel:

GX/BX, T5.75, bring all pusher on front bed to working position, work short row heel down to 10 sts, and back.

Foot: RC000

CX/CX, T5.5, knit to RC 120.

Toe:

Dec each end, both beds on this RC= 120 and on 128, 134, 140, 144, 148, 152, then every circ row (2RCs) till 8 sts remain.

Sew cuff and kitchener toe.

I have updated the diagram for the pattern, the traffic indicates that someone/s is looking at this a lot

download now

Needle | · | · | | · | · | WP | | | | | RP | a Needle | · | · | | · | · | WP | | | | | RP | b 4 rows position a 4 rows position b

Henley Passaped

Updated: 21 Jan 09.

I want to make Henley Perfected on the machine, but to do the lace as written is just a little beyond my reach. I'll up date my notes as I go and unless I get a really smooth idea to action thing happening, I expect to take a couple of months to plan and do.

Project working notes:

Project: Henley Perfected but with AX pattern.
Trialling T4.5 - 6 StSt; T4 - 5.5 Pat.

Yarn: Bendigo Woollen Mills Classic 3ply cone wool in Blueberry. a really nice purlish blue.

I tried a couple and really like the pattern in Passap book 11, number 1682. It's not too difficult, done on front bed, has a 2 needle edge.

Pattern set up: GX/AX.
Needle and Pusher set up: 11 . 1 . 11 . 1 . 11 (etc)
the . stitches each side of the . 1 . (centre stitches) are transferred onto the 1 (centre stitches).
Pattern begins with 11 . 1 (WP) . 11 . 1 (RP) . 11 and so on. In other words, every second centre stitch (. 1 .) is put into rest position.
Knit 6 rows.
Swap single needle pushers (centre stitches) (ie WP to RP / RP to WP). this was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
Pattern is done half T less than StSt seems to work best.

Trialling the ridge division:
Bring needles from back bed into WP; 1 R N/N; 3R GX/N; transfer back bed using U70.
will look through the pattern books to see if there's anything in there I can try.

Daughters, Dentists, Fabric and Fiddling with knitting.

This week's knitting efforts were put on the back burner for visiting daughters. My darling Anth visited early in the week, bringing fabric for Bush Fire Brigade display tablecloths. We cut 'em out, got 'em hemmed and put some elastic in some. I did manage to put the beaded edge on the tuck lace shawl. 100 beads later... but I could do this while chatting, no harm for a truly tiresome task. We found some really nice green Cleckheaton Bamboo to make her a Berrocco top.

Anth departed for home and a couple of hours later.. the revolving door which is my home, brought in Loz. This time she has fabric for a fancy dress costume. Next morning, she goes off to do some shopping we get time to do a bit of drafting before Dentist appointment. Luckily for us, we found our excellent dentist who makes the necessary adjustment to her, wasn't really ill and was able to go home. Inbetween time we looked through the Bendi samples and bought her some 2 ply Plum to make her her very own tuck stitch shawl and some yarn for her Shalom. And I did manage to chat and get the OTHER beaded end of the shawl cast off.

I undid a couple of rows on my Crescent Moon Shawl and redid them, I was a bit miffed, but it didn't take long to rip it back and redo. I think I did one too many rows of the pattern, which is why is wasn't turning out right! Dah! Next thing was to do the excel spreadsheet for the extra rows it needs (done).

I did a couple of trial AX pattern for my Henley style half and half jumper, and I've settled on Passap book 11, No 1682. Photos soon.

Guitmerozis Shawl/Scarf

I decided to do a straight (as in no shaping just knit back and forth - straight) piece to acclimatise myself with AX patterns. I want to make Henley Perfected from my Interweave Knits mag, but I'm fairly certain to do it all on the machine is just a little beyond my reach. So... what else to do but an easier version with an AX auto or semi auto pattern. As a preproject I decided to make Jana Trent's Passap DM80 Tuck Lace Shawl/Scarf as a practice piece.

Working Notes:

Caston: I tried several methods, firstly in main yarn; 1:1 rib, transferred stitches, adding various weights as per the original instructions. Well I think my main problem with this is I don't have a cast on comb and couldn't come up with any way to add weight without pulling the whole thing to blahhdom. Next was scrap yarn, again 1:1 rib, transferred (then got sick of that and just dropped them) started with lace yarn and problems again with weights. Next idea, set up needles for pattern, using waste yarn again, and not worrying about the quality of the caston, T5, N/N, 1R; rack 1 nd to left, 1R; rack 1 nd to right; keep knitting and eventually knits all sts and long enough to attach weights. Success (and a really rotten first couple of cast on rows).

Weights: Problem: no cast on comb. After successfully casting on with waste yarn, and before I finished knitting with it, I attached my weights. Using silver crochet hook, picked up paperclip with lock attached and evenly spaced them across the work, until work is exposed and then can be hooked into fabric. I did manage to hook the heel grips at the end. Padlocks work remarkably well.

Knitting 2ply lace on T7: problem: dropped stitches. Constant weight must be applied at all times. On the first couple of runs, I moved the weight but allowed the live stitches to be weightless, resulting in too many dropped stitches. I tried several types of weights I have on hand and the smooth padlocks, directly hooked in the fabric, worked best, no pulling or overstretching. The heel grips went on the very end, as I could get them higher up inside the machine and that eliminated edge problems.

Dropped stitches: Cause: not keeping weight on live stitches at all times. On the final attempt, I managed to keep pressure on the live stitches as I repositioned the weights over 700 rows, and about halfway through I dropped 2 stitches, which I dropped back and relatched when I finished knitting. (crochet hook v latch tool: use the latch tool). I initially stopped, flipped levers and repositioned weight on row 6, but ... so many dropped stitches later, trialled and thought better, to knit row 1 then stop. I think this helped and if not, no harm done either way.

Undoing rows: Successfully and carefully done, making sure there were no dropped stitches, keeping weight on needles and using red tool where necessary. (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, STOP flip levers. NOT keep on knittin' and countin' to 10).

Cast off: no dramas. N/N on scrap.

Finish: All scrap now removed, after - best guess - over 2000 rows to knit a 700 row shawl/scarf. I now know how the AX tuck stitch works! Now to decide whether to put in some glass bead on the ends, (after I finish my cotton top, of course!).

Beaded Cast off, both ends. I used the method in the Swallowtail Shawl, but with beads; make a point with PVA glue, wait till dry; thread about 100 beads; knit first stitch, with a bead in the centre of the new stitch, ie draw the first loop over the bead; *knit one, knit both sts through back of loop, with the bead in the centre, a bit of a fiddle - pass both loops over the bead, drawing it up between the loops * , repeat to end. Took me a while to do.. but worth it.

I'm looking at the pattern books to see which pattern I'll put on the Henley and do a sampler.