I've made a second pair, rotating a quarter turn, as per Dresda's Pictorial, picking up the 24 stitches, putting back onto the machine. I used coins as weights in between the beds on the heel flap to keep the stitches in place. It was a lot more fiddling - perhaps it was because it was black and difficult to see (?) Anyway here is it's picture:
Updated 7 Mar 09:
Firstly, my friend Stephanie has an excellent tutorial of doing Dresda's Heel Flap Socks which I'm basing mine on. My daughter prefers heel flap style and I'm using the above as a template. (I also have three to make for my BIL Dave) I'll only expand on where mine vary (so if anything's not clear, check the tutorial for explanation):
Cast on 60, L30, R30, 2:2 Industrial rib = 1rack to left, T1, N/N, 1 R; T5 CX/CX 2R; rack 1 to right, T5, N/N 1R; Reset RC000; 20R.
Trans to back bed. 2 rows GX/N, divide and put 15 from each end onto front bed. RC 000
T5, CX/CX 140R.
Heel flap. 30/30Row 1: T5, GX/BX right arrow; alt pushers = 1xWP, 1xRP. END pushers are always in WP.
Row 2: T5, GX/N (end of this row, reset end pushers to WP and flip lever.)
Repeat these 2 rows 24 times (48 RC)
T5, GX/BX (REMEMBER to reset the arrow to 0) turn the heel using pushers and moving stitches inwards as per tutorial:
Heel turn numbers for this pair:
Work17, 2tog, work 1, turn (19 stitches worked),
work 6, 2tog, work 1 (slip 1, work 5, 2tog, work 1 = 7 stitches worked, bring slip pusher back into work)
K7, k2tog, k1 turn (slip 1, work 6, 2tog, work 1 = 8 stitches worked, bring slip pusher back into work)
P8, as before, then, K9, P10, K11, until 18 sts remain.
Reposition for gusset decreases:
Take off the machine with 4 x decker combs at halfway point for each quarter eg, back bed = 9 on each comb; front bed = 15 on each comb.
ROTATE 180 and rehang, so it's easier to do gusset decreases. 24 stitches each side must be added for the gusset. (96 total, 48 each bed, 24 each quarter).
THIS DID NOT WORK - there is fabric is too tight to stretch across the beds: pick up 15 each side for the back bed and 9 sts from heel flap for the front bed combs on each side)
Some things that do:
e-wrap 24 sts each side and continue (my machine wont knit ewrap so I had to manually knit 4 rows before it would cooperate). I liked the finished edge, smooth and will graft easily onto the gusset.
Crochet 24 sts each side, either on scrap to undo and kitchener later or in same yarn and continue.
I am going to Different e-wrap shown in the Hand Manipulated Stitches book p37 - knitted back double epwrap cast on - This worked really well. ewrap first needle, wrap around the next bringing the thread back over the original needle and knit off one stitch; then move onto the next. Check that all stitches knit properly on the first CX row, much easier.
(You may have to HAND KNIT added stitches for first row - not with the double knit ewrap it knitted). Put some weights on the sides and on the added stitches. RC 000
Place a marker (pusher in RP works well) at the 15 st mark each side FB:
T5, CX/CX, knit 2 rows = RC 4,
dec 1 st each side; at the 15 stitch mark, TAKE it off the needle and put it onto needle 16 now move stitches along to empty needle as per tutorial,
alternating: racking left then right, moving one stitch to the front bed REMEMBERING to ROTATE it instead of flipping FROM BACK TO FRONT (or you will have these cute little purl stitches interupting the lovely flow of sock AND undo the back bed right end stitch before transferring).
Repeat 26 times, (RC 56), then every round until 60 sts remain (RC64) no reset.
T5, CX/CX to row 134 (DAVE 124)
Dec 1 st each end (on second needle - leaving the outside stitch running up to the toe) all beds, 4 in total on next then on row 142, 148, 154, 158, 162, 144, then every round till 8 sts remain.
Dave's variation: to RC 124, then toe decreases on row, 132, 138, 1444, 148, 152, 156.