Friday, February 5, 2010

Vintage Knitting: Passap Book 10 - 1664

Well, I wanted to make this vintage jumper from an old Passap Pattern book. It was published in 1969. It's out of print. The company that makes Passaps is out of business. They stopped making my passap in the late 70s. But on the off chance that someone decides to buy their back catalogue and publish them again.. complete with models smoking in two of the photos, I've included the schematic from the book, not that it CAN be made as written, it didn't even fit the model, as clearly seen in the photo..

Now this is my attempts at modernising the design, making mine with more ease.

The original Schematic is for a narrow hipped, ample front, short arms and body and just to cap it all off, the armhole drop is perfect, lots of room for my big shoulders as you can see in the photo, but back on point, as to whom this garment was intended? Perhaps a female impersonator with padded bra? I would have said preteen with padded bra, had it not been for the massive shoulder allowance! nevermind. I can use that!

I had a bit of an epiphany, it's for the putting over the top of those massive shoulder pads that came in the 80s, a decade before they are "in", here we can put our SydneyOperaHouse sized shoulder pads, and have a perfect fit. Or be me and have big bones to go around...

I want to keep the elements of the design, the shoulder seam extending down the back, waist shaping and in the front there is a bust dart over 6 rows for me to put in.

Here's how I made mine, but if you are going to attempt it, I suggest getting out the tape measure and do some serious adjustments of your own:

3 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 4ply Cotton in Damask Rose.

Miss Pinky is doing the honours:
St st: T5: 28st/45R = 10cm
Tubular: T4.75
2:2 (ind rib) T2.75

The design starts with tubular caston needles are divided for 2:2 ind rib, needles are brought up into WP again for more tubular rows, then transferred to back bed for stocking stitch. Decreases are done using 3 prong tool for fully fashioned finish. I'm keeping the basic elements of the design, with additional width added to the hips, body sleeves.

CO 152
T4.75, O 7R = this must be 14RC in total
T4, divi up for 11.11 rib 20R
T4.75 bring . needles back into WP, O 7R = 14RC in total
transfer all stitches to back bed for stst. RC000. NOW do side decreases.

T5: Dec 1 st each end ev 4th row, to RC76 (118st)
-> to RC90. RCOOO
+1 each end ev 10R (start at R5) x 5 to 138st (RC50)*** (work front to here)
-> RC100. RC000

-9st next 2 rows
-1 ea end ev 2nd R 6X RC12 108st. RC000
-1 ea end ev 4th R 23X RC56/92st.
-> 58RC, RC000
-1 ea end ev 2ndR 12X, RC48/44sts
44sts remain

Work as for back to *** here.
-> RC98
Work bust darts over next 6RC,
get the pushers out -10st short rows each end over the next 6 rows, (BX)
knit up to the 106RC (but only 2 will have been worked on the edge)RC000

-3 ea end 3 x (9sts each end gone)
At armhole edge: +1st ev 5th R 12x
at Neck edge: straight to RC 16
then -1st N/E ev 5R (hopefully it will be the same 5 row count as the armhole - could it be too much to ask for I wonder?)

CO 58
T4.75, O 7R = this must be 14RC in total
T2.75, divi up for 11.11 rib 20R
T4.75 bring . needles back into WP, O 7R = 14RC in total
transfer all stitches to back bed for stst. RC000.

T5: + 1 st each end ev 6th row, 27 times to RC162 (112st)
-> to RC200. RCOOO

-9st next 2 rows
-1 ea end ev 2nd R 20X RC50/56st.
-1 ea end ev R 10X, RC60/16sts
16sts remain

CO 106 tub (each bed)
work rib
take off on waste yarn.


Diana L. Sullivan, CPA said...

Hi, Just found your blog and had a great time reading it! I would like to be a better Passap knitter, and certainly find inspiration in your blog.

ozlorna said...

I bought Miss Pinky second hand in 1981 and use her for a little bit when the kids were little, then put her under the bed for about 15 years. Got her up and running and off we went making socks. I didn't know there were Japanese machines, or every machine wasn't the same! I find Miss Pinky a very versatile machine. I do have a Jac and a Deco, but don't have any paper for it (very slack) but so far I'm happy to hand manipulate when needed.