No Boring Bits Machine and Hand Knit Projects

I'm interested in putting some hand knit panels onto the machine and getting the machine to do the boring bits.


I know there are many ways to do this already. Tried and true, but I thought I'd like to see which one I liked best.


The most obvious one is to sew the pieces together with mattress stitch, but I didn't want to do that, mostly because I thought it would pull in an unpleasant way along the bustline.


Firstly, daughter decided to try our hand at a Drops dress/tunic pattern and I decided to do Climbing Vines, both have a varying stitch count over a number of rows and is too much of a pain to do on the machine.


On this one, daughter hand knitted the bands on the train to and from work, and joined the "bar" up on the KX350 Brother machine. As best described in Diana Sullivan's single bed sock tutorial. However, this is excellent for thinner sock wool, on this 8ply yarn, it's not quite so good.


Next bright idea we had was to pick up the "bump" not the "bar". As Best described as being the bit between the bar, very each to pick up on thick work.


This brings me to my second project that I've been trying to figure out the best way of making, the Climbing Vines Jumper.


So I decided to knit up the leaf panel on 4.00mm needles, but first I did the ribbing on the Passap, cause it's quick and easy. Then onto the plastic KX350:

Here is a pretty clear shot of the "bump" that we decided may give a tighter "seam"

I used the single prong to get the stitch and put it back onto the machine.

And put it onto the needle, which is done every second row and really worked well.

I've made some Shawls

It's been a bit longer than I thought, since I blogged. Daughter moved in for a few weeks, which of course turned into about a month longer. We've been stuffed into a 2 bed apartment, my son, my cat and my darling daughter had a bed in the dining room where I had my machines set up, so they got squashed into the only spare space left. Daughter is more important than machines! Time to do some handknitting - with beads. Why not?

Anyways, she has left this morning, visiting friends, then staying with her Dad until she leaves for the UK to spend Christmas with her new soon to be inlaws.

I've made her a shawl from some gorgeous silk I bought from the Bendigo Wool and Sheep Show in July, direct from the Moseley Park stand - Moseley Park 100% silk laceweight in Ice Glow.
















Loz chose Haruni and I bought the silver lined silver beads from Empire Beads, the 3mm (8/0) and 4.5mm (5).

Then I decided to make up my silk/merino I won as a monthly prize from theknittery, when Daphne was in Victoria, she's now in the US and not dyeing. Such a shame, I loved her work.

So, while I was looking at shawls I came across Frozen Leaves and decided it would be perfect. I ordered the beads for both and here is mine:
















This month, I hopefully will be machining again.

Machined Shawl Collared Cardigan

The original Shawl Collared Cardigan appears in Jo Sharp's Knit Issue 1, which has no machine instructions. I have deviated from the written instructions, stitch count, bands and collar shaping. If anything isn't clear, please obtain your own copy of the book and go from there.

Knit on SK860 midgauge + ribber.
5 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Highlands in Cinder.
T5 swatch = 22st/28r = 10cm

All bands start with 3 sts on each end, then 11.11 each bed, HP, weight the end stitches to start with, I used a bulldog clip onto the end of a double ended latch tool that came with the machine.

Back
Bands: T2.2/2.2 MB+R; L65..R65 in 2.2 IR rib.
I use long tail cast on and transferred the stitches onto the needles. you need +200 if you do this way, I left the extra dangling until I hung the combs.
work 20R
Body: Transfer all the RB sts to the MB, the 2 group onto the empty needle. (13o sts) reset RC000.
put waist shaping in if you want, but otherwise ->120R reset RC.
Armhole: -6 ev row twice - I thread onto a little piece of scrap. Then -1 (3rd needle onto second, move both in one st) both ends ev alt row 15 times (88st), work to 62R.
Shoulder: set carriages for short row shaping. Reset Russell levers to | both sides.
bring 3 needles on left to D, knit one row, bring 4th needle to D, (4 needles now out of work),
bring 3 needles on right to D, milk the yarn to ensure tight wrap. knit one row, bring 4th needle to D, continue these two actions 4 more times till you have 44 sts COR.
next row is tricky, bring out your 4th needle, STOP, this is the tricky bit don't knit yet, milk the yarn, as you move SLOWLY to take up the wrap BUT YOU MUST NOT LET THE LEFT EDGE OF YOUR CARRIAGE go past your left side wraps, you have to STOP TO DO RESET:
before the edge of the carriage reaches your wrapped stitches, you do reset your Russell lever LEFT SIDE ONLY to ||, this will take up all your stitches on the left, knit to the end of the row, reset right Russell lever to || knit off your final row.
take off all sts however you prefer, mine go onto the circs I keep for this.

Fronts - make two, reversing the shaping on the other one.
L23/R23 work Same as back, with shaping on one side only.
Note: there is no neck shaping.

Sleeves - make two
L23/R23 work bands same as body. RC000
T5 +1 by moving last sts onto next empty needle, pick up the stitch bar under 2nd needle and place on empty needle, both ends every 4th row to 96 sts (RC100)
work to 120RC. reset RC.
Sleeve cap: -6 next (onto scrap), then as before, 3rd onto 2nd and move both in one needle, -1 each end 18 times (RC38), then ev row 15 times to 12 sts and take them off to cast off or cast off around the posts, whichever you prefer.

Bands
T2.2/2.2 MB/RB L16/R16 2.2 IR rib, work to 140 RC, then + 1 ev 6 rows ALL SHAPING IS ON THIS SIDE, then at RC212 or 72 if you did a reset, place a marker, a paper clip, small piece of scrap yarn whatever you choose, this is your shoulder seam and it makes it easier to sew it up - just saying. I put short rows in here, it sits so much better with them.
**Reset RC000 and BOTH carriages to | (all four russell levers) knit one row. COL.
on RIGHT side, pull the (MB) 1x2, 3x2 and (RB) 3x2 needles to D, knit one row
pull out one needle from MB, milk yarn and knit one row.
pull out 3x2 + 3x2 (but one will already be out on the MB- the wrapped stitch), milk, knit.
repeat last 2 rows,** reset ALL Russell levers to || knit to RC36
repeat ** to **
reverse the short rows, wrapping as you go bring needles to B, set side levers to collect them.
knit to RC78 repeat from ** to ** Reset RC000.
-1st ev 6th row to original stitch count = 72RC. reset RC and knit another 140 rows.

Finishing
do 3 needle cast/bind off on shoulders, align your collar with the shoulder seam and join whichever way you like. set in sleeves with linker, machine or darning needle, finish side seams and weave in ends. As you can see, I had help with this.

Making a Vest

Theo and Anth took me to Bendigo in July. On the way we stopped at Wangaratta mill shop and Theo bought some 3ply blue wool. Then I said I'd make him a vest. He likes the Passap and the Passap likes 3ply - all good.

All was well for the body and I decided to do the armhole and neck ribbing on the Passap, put it on waste yarn and sew/graft/kitchener it on. Well that was a dismal failure. It looked really awful, so in the end I took up the knitpicks 2.25s and did them by hand. Much better.

Neverending Big Vest on SK860 Mid Gauge

I decided to make a vest in July, to wear to the Bendigo Show. A plain simple vest. Right. Finished it this week.

I'm still learning how to use the mid gauge and decided to do the cast on for the 2:2 IR rib in the book. I tried many times before realising that I was doing it right - but it looked awful because it was awful. I tried to adapt the Passap cast on.. nope didn't work either. In the end I used the Knitted back e wrap cast on (Ch2.5 in Susan Guagliumi's HMS4MKers) that works so well for single bed Passap work. I put three extra to move back a needle to keep it even: I started out with 7 sts, used the double eyelet to transfer 2 sts to the ribber, moved 3 over one needle, cast on 4 more and so on until I had it all done. While it worked I'm still looking for a "perfect" cast on for 2:2 IR on the middi, going to do a crochet cast on next.

I had 3 x 200G Bendigo Woollen Mills 8ply Bramble Allegro
and 1 x 200G BMW 8ply Dark Plum 8ply Classic

Now onto the back:
Cast on 2:2 IR, 65L to 65R, T2.2 both beds; knit 20 rows.
On the ribber: leave the 10 centre ones, and transfer all the others into the single needle space on the main bed.
T5 MB and T2.2 Ribber. RC000, knit 120 rows
Armhole: RC 000
-10 next two rows
-1 ev 2rows 9 times
straight to 72 RC
Shape Shoulder:
-8 next 4 rows. (I did short rows, then one more to seal it off)
take off however you like, I put onto circ needles.

Fronts:
Cast on 47 (counting on the main bed, the ribber stitches count as one.
T2.2, knit 20 rows.
transfer all stitches to main bed but keep the ribber up and use the ribber arm
- otherwise... you guessed it... you make it and the tension is different.. so you have to make it again to match the back - and that was just ONE of the many, many undos I did, just warning ya!
T5, ribber up but no stitches, knit 120 rows. RC000
-10
-1 ev alt row 9 times
straight to 72
-8 (Armhole edge) ev 2nd row twice.
make another one with reverse shaping.
Now wasn't that easy? I thought so.

Band
This is where I really, really came unstuck. I didn't buy enough wool and I couldn't for the life of me work out where to get a magic ball (for the non Aussies, one of our famous painters, Norman Lindsay, wrote and illustrated a book called the Magic Pudding, about a pudding that never ran out. A classic children's book here).

Now back to the band... for reasons known to noone I wanted a wide band. And have enough left over for a small sleeve cap.. I really liked the Kaino vest and had this in mind.

Things I tried that didn't work: Do it on the passap with the two colour changer with two rows each of dark plum and bramble. Ran out of wool. Made it thinner, only 5o rows to go.. Ran out of wool. Remade it on the Passap with 6 rows of dark plum across the back of the neck - nope still ran out. Went back to the vest. Did it really have to be that long? OK I could do with 30 rows less. Undid everything. Remade it all with 120 rows.... sigh... Will this vest ever get made?

Back to the band:
Let's pretend I bought enough to do the whole thing in one colour:
Cast on ... heavens I didn't write down the numbers properly, but
11 groups of 2 on the main bed and 10 on the ribber would be good. Take a look on your back and decide if you want it that wide or wider. anyway, here's the numbers:
T2.2
Knit to 140 rows, RC000
+ 1 st every 4 rows (however you like) 18 times (RC64),
knit straight to RC 76 PUT IN A MARKER on the neck edge (where the increases are). RC000
straight to 74 RC. PUT IN A MARKER on the neck edge. RCOOO
knit straight to 12RC
- 1 st every 4 rows (however you like, but looks good if you match the increases). RC76. Reset RC000
work straight to 170 rows.

Of course... I couldn't do that, could I?

so ... one of the Ravelry girls did and excellent job making socks on her single bed, I was very impressed with the clean line she got on the join. After "freeing up" the wool from 3o rows front and back. I felt I was onto something.

So... I made an outer Dark Plum strip, with about 10 rows too many in case I mucked up the maths, with a 7:7 count on the 2:2 rib, but put 3 on each end. one for the roll on the font edge and one on the other side for the join (I did a practice piece to work this out too... I did say this vest took six weeks to make, didn't I?)
then made a shaped strip 7:7 wide, again with the 3 sts (on the main bed) on the edge. Now there isn't a lot of room, so I ran a contrast thread for about 30 or so times (60 rows) so I could pick up that bar on the edge easily. The bar is slipped over the last needle every second row, which was easy to see which one while the cast on bar was in the way, I didn't worry about picking up the cast on row, I started with the first bar and pulled out the marking thread as I went. Yes it did take a bit more time, but I did it all in an afternoon and would certainly use this method again, I thought it was an excellent backup for adding a vertical stripe.

Now onto the Sleeve Cap:
join your shoulder seam however you like. I do the 3 needle cast/bind off.
Then I picked up every row, not the 3 of 4 that is usually done, with the Dark Plum and knitted in the pick up row on 3.25 circs (168 sts), then hung them in 2:2.
Start the short rows immediately. (yep, I did they twice to figure this out too). SET both carriages to short row.
(BUT IF I MADE THIS AGAIN I'd start in the middle and work my way outwards).
Easiest way to explain is - do you counting on the ribber:
on the left side, pull the needles up to the 7th group of 2.
knit 1 row, hang a claw weight,
pull up the NEXT needle on the main bed and pull up the same number on the opposite side,
knit 1 row, hang claw weight,
pull up the NEXT needle on the main bed and pull up 3 on the opposite side,
knit 1 row, continue, pulling up 1 on the carriage side and 3 on the opposite until 11 (eleven) groups of 11 (two) have been short rows (row 18)
ROW 19:
watch what you are doing: slowly start to knit, and when you see the LEFT HAND edge of the carriages clear the stitches on hold and are on the bit that hasn't been short rowed, THEN on the LEFT HAND SIDE flip your russell levers to pick up the short rows. BUT if you don't watch what's happening, you can miss collecting them (yep just one of the many redos on this vest).
ROW 20: flip the russell levers on the right side and knit all stitches.
work straight to RC24, change colour to main and knit 6 more rows.
Cast off however you prefer.

Do the other one.

Things I'd do differently on the next one:
buy enough wool.
the front band thinner - make it the same width as the back
on the shoulder do -5, -5 -5 and add two more rows each side on the bands.
Start the short rows on the sleeve caps in the middle, that would be better.

That's it.
My Neverending Big Vest.

Machknit Day 31July10

Yesterday was a great day at Epping, NSW, for the NSW Machknit group. They have one every year and this one was my first visit.

Bev instructed us on refurbishing a sponge bar for the Japanese machines and later how to dissassemble one to clean and refurbish.

Singer/Silver Reed and Brother standard machines were set up to show various techniques, a Brother garter carriage was chugging away, a Hague linker showing it's clever joining abilities and I was doing a demo of socks on a pinky Passap and daughter was showing how the simple KX350 mid gauge worked.

There was also free and for sale yarns, magazines, and all sorts of doo dads.

She's alsleep on my lap

Update on my Princess, she's settling down really well. She's asleep on my lap, leaving me enough room to type about her. She's decided to tell me she doesn't like certain food, a big leap for her, she's unfazed by noise, if she's hiding she feels safe and doesn't care. She's taken over my foam block I use to sit at my machine and is happy to sit in the open this morning in the sun, reminded me that I hadn't opened the curtains so she could.

Here is a photo of her upside down having a tummy rub.

She's here!!

Where to start with my Princess?? Is it just enough to say she's here? Otherwise, this is the whole story:

There are 80 units in my complex, the first two levels have garages, and level 2 garage has a door into the lift vestibule and a long corridor that eventually leads to my front door.

Well I have the world's smallest job: I let tradesman into the building and show them where they need to be working. All sorts, the electricians, our handy man, the tree loppers, you get the idea.

Well, the committee one day said, "Lorna there's kittens in the garages in Level 2".
"Really? Kittens?"
"Yes and their mum. Feral cat and her feral kittens, I've seen them, mother cat with kitten in her mouth - definitely cat and kittens"
"Yeeesss????"
"And you need to get rid of them - you know take them to the pound, that sort of thing - you know, get rid - rid of them"

..OK, rang the pound, who DON'T take feral cat families - no they suggested I catch and release them in the bush (Honestly - They. Did!)
rang the RSPCA - they will take them but are an hour away.
Then I found out there are people who will come and kill them all for me - Honestly who would WANT a job like that??
Then I Googlefooed feral cats, then I rang our strata manager and told him all our options, and asked if I could approach our local vet and see if they would provide veterinary services for us (worm, vaccinate the kittens and treat Mum humanely). Yes he said. Yes she said. Now all to do was warn all our residents to NOT frighten, chase or in any way bother them, until they were big enough to go off to the vets. They had food, water and a toilet, and the kittens were too small to use the exit through the broken louvres, up too high for them. One by one I was able to trap the kittens - all five of them, then Mum, who I'd already christened Princess, she deserved a name, a fabulous mother and a beautiful cat - who hissed and growled at me daily - couldn't fool her - she knew I was about to steal her gorgeous kittens. I cried! I begged the vet nurse to beg the vet to spay Princess and let her go, she's a beautiful cat, a survivor, a champion, fearless and nothing is her fault, she is healthy and deserves to live, she would have been the first kitten to go at a pet shop, a very pretty kitty.

I couldn't bear to think she couldn't be saved. I spoke to many of the residents, some thought my cat whispering skills are a mysterious gift, others commiserated at the cruelty and thoughtlessness that got poor princess into such a position.

Then yesterday came I knock at my door. She's just come back from the vets (annual jabs for her dog) and saw a photo of our kittens and Princess!! they believe she was dumped, some time ago, is about two years old and was social enough to be rehomed.

They have stuffed her full of food, she's twice the size she was when I took her there a couple of weeks ago and she's been jabbed, spayed, de fleaed and really healthy.

Well Princess is in the bathroom, with her food, toilet, blanket and won't come out. I kept her in there with the door shut (that feral cat site was great), door's open, she stepped out and decided she'd seen enough of the world and is back on her blanket, thank you very much, but ain't moving. She purrs when I pat her, I have to close the door or she's too scared to enjoy her food.

So I have a semi-feral cat called Princess living in my bathroom. And Anthea wanted a photo, and I took one without a flash and she moved her head as I was taking it... the.. the... ccccc..ccamera... mmmmmade a noise!!! scary stuff indeed for a reprieved princess!

Now... where did I put that link for a cat bed....

Bag Lady Mitts

Edit: seeing as someone may want to adapt them, I've put in better instructions.

I used the long tail cast on over the two 4.00mm needles - nice and stretchy.

Cast off very loosely, with the 5.00s or 5.5 if you have them handy, especially if you want to fold back the tops, it's too uncomfortable otherwise.

After the stunning success of the fingertipless gloves, I decided to make a pair with ribbing to cover my fingers, using the same basic pattern. I fiddled around with them a little bit and the wrap and turn short rows really is perfect.

Needles: 4, 4.5 and 5mm

Wool: 2 x 50g ball of 12ply (worsted)

Fits: my big hands 23cm/9" around the knuckes (40 sts) (if you require a smaller size, do 32 or 36sts and rows should work out within a row or so - try them on and adjust as necessary).

If I made them again, I may even do one wrap and turn on the second row:

C/0 40 STS ON 4.00 2:2 RIB 16 rows

in stst. Knit 1 row.

** optional: put in a short row here:

work to 10 sts w&t; purl 20 sts, w&t, continue knitting in the round, this will be counted in the increases, so increase 1 st as if you were knitting in the round. **

Inc 1 st ev 2nd row 10 times (50 sts). Increased section is on the palm side.

Right: Knit 2 sts on scrap, turn purl 2 sts, knit 2 over the scrap, slip next 10 st on scrap or stitch holder, continue on 40 sts.

Left: 12 sts from your increase ridge, slip 10 sts onto scrap, knit 2, turn, purl 2 on scrap. Knit over 2 scrap stitches, continue on 40 sts.

Work 2 rows

Next row: knit 15 sts, Japanese W&T  purl 30sts W&T

Next row: knit 25 sts, Japanese W&T purl 20st W&T

Knit next row, picking up the loops from the W&T k2tog then SSK, keeping the loop behind the stitch. around to maker.

Knit one row

Continue in 2:2 rib on 4.50mm work 14 rows.

Thumb: P/U 16, dec 1 st in divide line (ssk/ K2tog) dec ev 2 rows to 13 sts, knit 2 rows, cast off.

And the really nice thing is you can fold them back when you want to do stuff and roll them down to keep warm.

Bag Lady Gloves - Fingertipless Gloves

Last winter I bought some 12ply Classic wool from Bendigo Woollen Mills back room in 50g balls for fingerless gloves. I started them, they were way, way too big, then by the time I fiddled around with them, I ended up putting them in a plastic bag and chucking them in the too hard basket.

Now winter has returned. It's cold. I'm cold and I have no fingerless gloves in warm wool. Ripped them back and tried trusty Ravelry and found a men's pattern in roughly the right ply - nope it didn't work. I know I'm a large framed person, and honestly men's medium should fit - nope too small. but gave me a good inbetween to aim for... and here they are in all their ripped and redid glory:

2 x 50g 12ply wool
4.00mm needles
5.00mm needles
Patience

C/0 40 STS ON 4.00mm 2:2 RIB, Work 16 rows
Continue on 5.00mm in stst. knit 4 rows.
Inc 1 st ev 2nd row 10 times (50 sts) - palm side, put a marker in but keep the increases in line.

Knit 3 sts on scrap, turn purl 3 sts, and slip the 10 sts increased onto holder. Knit over the scrap, continuing around (40 sts)

Work 4 rows.
My little finger in gloves is always too high, so here's how I solved it:

Little Finger: 8 sts; 8+4; from the needles, add 4 sts in the middle, knit 8 rows or adjust length, cast off.
When restarting, there are 5 or 6 loops to pick up, k2 tog or SSK on each side - 3 sts remain from the little finger.

knit 4 rows.

Ring Finger : 14st 4/3/4 st plus 3 in the middle. Knit 9rows. When rejoining, there will be 4 loops, k2tog on edges. 2 sts remain, cast off.

Middle finger: 16st: 6/2/6/2: Slip the first 6 and last 6 sts plus 2 from ring finger add 2 on, knit 13 rows , cast off.

Index Finger: 14 sts: 12/2: 12 remaining sts plus 2 from middle finger, knit 11 rows, cast off.

Thumb: pick up 16 sts: K2tog or ssk any stray loops picked up on the edges. K2tog (or SSK, to match side increase line), on the first knit round (also the stray loop pickup row - so actual count is 15sts after first round), then ev 2nd row, dec along that line (outside), to 12 sts, work one row, cast off.

Stitch counts:

Cuff: 40sts; 2:2; 16R

Hand, 4R; +1st ev 2R 10x
Little: 12; 8+4; 8R

Ring: 14; 4+3+3+3; 9R

Middle: 16; 6+2+6+2; 13R

Index: 14; 12+2; 11R

Thumb: 16 to 12sts over 8 rows

I've been busy

I've had a busy couple of weeks. I've finished the scarves and socks for the Jo from Knit for Tibet, there has been an earthquake and people have lost everything, so I said I'd put some things through the machine for her .. and she wanted scarves and socks. All done and posted back to her.

Next, I promised my friend Shelley that I'd make her wedding invites - phew, they are all done, I think there's about 110 of them, should have been 112 but two, umm, invites were harmed in the making of...

Next, some time ago we talked about me making her a shawl for her wedding, so I asked her if she still wanted one, yes she did, so .. straight away she chose the Japanese Feather and Fan, she tried mine on.. fiddled and chose the merino and silk lace yarn I had. Made a start on it, I decided to do a panel each day, easy when you start, and made it easy for me to do the invites. I'm going to have it finished by middle of August - say 15th. That gives me a fall back couple of weeks if the wheels fall off anything.

Just before all this, I started the Pewter Coat from IK Winter 08. I had just finished the Rambling Rose - a beautiful pattern, in two sizes, too small and too big. I had this big bag of Zoomy I got from the Mill shop last year, nowhere to put it of course, so I did the numbers and the small size worked out well with that really thick Zoomy. The lacy pattern really worked well in the thicker yarn, and the short row shoulder idea was fabulous! I ignored the instructions, really no point when the row count was hideously out. I did the turns on the yo, after I'd done the decreases.
Photo to come:

I'm also putting together my new machine table, from Ikea of course, it's a white laminated one, so I'll be able to attach the machine to it properly, this will be wonderful. It was just a bit wider that I thought, but will be just fine. I'm going to put some of my excess furniture in the garage so it's a comfortable fit.

Sooo... that's what I've been up to. Bin busy.

Yoko's First Sock

Well I've just made a sock on the SK860. I've made so many on the Passap. But. I have been given some 8ply (DK) wool - I think it's Cleckheaton Country 8ply - definitely a mill end/remnant from Wangaratta Mill. Looks a bit thick and I did a quick wrap around the only thing with inches I have - an old tape measure and was 10 wpi not 11, it will not be an easy knit on the Passap. So. Time to learn new things today.

first try:
Cuff:
Cast on 48 - T4/4. 16 rows, drop the ribber one click, then transferred to the ribber and knitted one row. I tried out using the garter bar on one side, and moving them on the next. I don't like using scrap knitting. Next time I'll take them off with the circ and put them back on again, though, the garter bar did work. It's just a bit big. If I think I'll make more, I'll invest in a set of decker combs from that fellow in Germany, they are by far the quickest. NEXT TRY: 48 is too wide (with this wool) so 40 or 44 will be better.
Leg:
Next onto the circular knitting.
Setting: T5/7 - 50R (next do 60) apparently the ribber is two numbers higher than the main bed and looking at the finished sock, it's pretty close. BUT. Oh My Goodness... there is a plastic thingy - a D something something, that you have to slide over the ribber needles before you knit the ribber row every time. EVERY TIME! Reminder to self: It's quicker than knitting by hand... and ... annoying.
Heel:
The short rows were easy enough, on the back/main bed. down to 8 and back worked out nicely. Dropping the ribber one click, changing the plate over and back, adding a weight to the heel, all easy.
Foot:
circ to 80Rows worked out well. measured 15cm/6", moved weights, no problems
Toe:
dec each end, each bed, next and every 4th row count (2nd row) to 12sts.

Take photo .. and before it gets too comfortable - undo the lot and remake with a few more rows before the heel and 4-8 less stitches.

Next one was great:
Cuff: CO 44, T3/3 16R, keep comb and weights on. Trans to ribber. reset. for ribber to knit 2 R T7, undo last quarter (11 sts).
drop bed about 2 clicks, move carriages to end, trans end quarters (11sts) to main bed with garter bar, making sure yarn thread is out of the way (wind it on the mast) Reset RC.

Leg: 69R COL,
Heel: drop ribber 1 click, change plates and settings for short rows down to 8 and back. Reset RC.

Foot: change plate and setting for circ, 80R

Toe: dec 1 sts each end, both beds every 2nd row (4RC) to 10 sts.

Graft toe, sew cuff.

Make another one.

Bergere de France pattern 289 - Blouson Zippe

Well most know I love these patterns, especially the MK logo AND the little bit that says (TYPE C = 7) which is especially for Passap. I loves them so much, I'm going to put in some links:

Old patterns: and you can see the lovely logo that looks like a bridge? followed by: Ce modèle peut être réalisé sur une machine à tricoter familiale, means you can chuck them on your standard machine and use
this list to see which machine is which letter machine and
this list for what the abbreviations mean. And just as a sweetener, here is a list of
French to English knitting terms. There you are then, everything you need to know and see why they are just the best thing on the net for all knitters, especially MKers.

And there is the tricotheque for the latest free pattens for the ladies.. Now I know what you are thinking - but, it's in French... Never fear all patterns more or less say the same thing, don't they? anyways as per the Pirates Code - they are more guidelines. And to make you feel really better, here's a bit from my Blouson Zippe...

Here are the instructions from the Right Front:

Emmanchure et épaule : Rab. à gauche comme au dos.

And what does it all mean?

Armhole and shoulder shaping - do what you did on the back.

And the left front? Yep - do what you did on the right one but in reverse... Seriously, go look for yourself! The row count is all there, for you to stop.. do your shaping .. easy as. I usually don't bother to translate if there's a graph and a schematic. Just the rows and numbers. I took a photo of the working notes - all the numbers of stitches and rows.

Now here's my dilemma: I've done the sleeves, back and right front, and now I think it would have been better to use the size lower on the back bed to pull in on the ribbing sections.. Oh deary me, what I've decided to do is the left front that way to see if it's better and if it is - redo the back and right front. I've left this for over a week now while I have a think.










I made my two Panda Cotton socks instead. I'm more inclined to do one project at a time, I'm not so good if I have too many things on the go at once... So... I'll edit in what I decide.

Scarf Day Afternoon

So ... what did I do yesterday afternoon you ask? All my Ravelympics2010 projects have been done. It's Sunday. There's nothing on TV, they've taken the 'Lympics off. No Cricket. Nothing but It's me or the Dog. So. I thought Hello Miss Pinky, you watching the naughty dog show? How about we yet again tackle that pile of scarf yarn and see how many you can churn out in a couple of hours. But we will stop when the Gremlins arrive, like the last time when I got two out before they interrupted us, OK? righto.. off we went for our Scarf Day Afternoon.

Chug, chug, 4pm came, stop for coffee and change chanels to find some Castle I'd recorded earlier. Coffee gone, scarves spitting out like Pinggu's machine. Still no gremlins. keep going .. find some more (will this stuff never end?) put it through, STILL only 4.50. Pack Miss Pinky up and start separating them, casting off both ends, just in time for me to watch Biggest Loser.. and here they are:

Yoko's Rose Jumper

I decided to make a jumper on Yoko and put a rose on it from the electronics.

Here is my pattern for the SK860. I did decided to do the ribbing on the Passap, but that's me.

Back:
Rib CO 116
20R: RC000
T5 -1 ev 10R to 104st
-> RC74
+ 1 ev 6R to 114st
-> RC 134, RC000
Armhole shaping
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 7 82St
-> RC 78
Shape shoulder
-8 ea end x 6 46sts
24/38/24
Front:
Rib CO 116
20R: RC000
T5 -1 ev 10R to 104st
-> RC74
+ 1 ev 6R to 114st
-> RC 124: START MOTIF
-> RC 134, RC000
Armhole shaping
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 7 82St
work to end of motif, do 2 rows
divi: 24/-6/22/-6/26
put 22 on holder and leave the other 30 on hold
-1st NE ev 4thR to 24st (RC58)
Shoulder shaping
-> RC 78
-8 armhole edge x 3 (6R) Cast or I prefer short rows and 3 needle bind off for the shoulder seam)
Sleeves:
Rib CO 48, 20R
RC000
T5 + 1 ev 6R to 94st
-> RC 156, RC000
Sleeve cap
-8 next 2R
-1 ea end ev 2R x 18 42St
-1 ea end x 15 12sts

Branching Out Machine Knit (BOMK) Bag

BOMK Bag
Ok here are my machine instructions for the Felted bag Branching out, which can be found on the Lion Brand site. You can find the chart and original instructions there.














I used a single bed machine, garter bar and a two prong tool and a mid gauge machine.
I used Nundle 8ply wool, which would be similar enough to American 10ply, to substitute that.
I transferred the chart to the paper for my EC1 electronic reader. Any pattern you like could work
I used T6 on my SK860

Cast on 63 sts on ravel cord. Stitch requirements: 2/59/2 sts (2 stitches must be each side of your pattern).
Garter Bar: 20 rows garter stich.
put the 2rd stitch onto the 3rd both ends and keep these stitches in work.
knit straight for 30 rows
do chart - 26 rows
knit straight for 16 rows.
Put the 4th st on the 5th, each end (I put the 3rd onto the 4th, but I think one more across would be better)
The divide for the next row: 22/..19.. /22 put the 22s on hold, knit 2 rows on 19 sts only on waste yarn (for your handle, go bigger if you like)
Garter Bar: 14 rows, garter stitch.
you can cast off you you like, or take off onto circs, or waste. If casting off, drop 2nd stitch each end.

Next bit:
pick up 63 stitches from the ravel cord on the first bit and do this side of the bag the same BUT REMEMBER TO put your 2ND OVER TO THE 3RD, and keep it in WP.

Sides, do both sides the same:
pick up 10 sts, straight to 72rows (no need to put your 2nd st onto 3rd, as it drops down to the edge)
Dec 3rd or 4th sts to the inside, both side (8sts)
Garter Bar: 14 rows, garter stitch.

Drop the second stitch from the end on all four pieces.

The really nice side pieces were done straight out of Susan Guagliumi's Hand Manipulated Stitches for Machine Knitters. Here is her website. Ch. 6, 97 Vertical Ladder Seam














How I interpreted her instructions was to:
with a crochet hook, I picked up 5 stitches, on the bottom of stitch 3, bottom on the dropped stitch, for the middle one, there was a nice little V between the sides, then the same on the other piece, giving me 5 stitches.
**Then 5 rows, (actually it worked out to be 6 rows on the very first one only)
Carriage on R. on the left, pick up the first 4 dropped loops and put them behind the last two stitches (for a more detailed explanation, please see HMS4MKers book).
knit one row
Carriage on L. On the right, pick up the first 4 dropped loops and put them behind the last 2 sts.
repeat from ** all the way up to the top.

Then I cast off the entire top in the camel colour.

Ravelympics 2010

Ravelympics has it's first machine event. Very exciting for us who are participating. Lookie what I got: My captain's medal. How exciting!




On Yoko:
a Branching Out machine bag, I'm doing the fair isle exactly as written, but really thing that sewing the thing all the way through the middle is well.. dopey. I've blogged my BOMK.
















the Rose motif jumper, I've blogged the pattern.













On Miss Pinky:

332m - Ankle socks for me and I made another pair in Graphite.

1668m in a Baby blanket out of the garage find





















the vintage top from Passap book 10 1664

see the prev post, I've made proper notes













Here's some scarves I did on Sunday afternoon.

From the frog pond:
the CPH that went from disaster to disaster. undoing the lot, winding it on the swift, washing it and rewinding it so it can be revitalised into something I'll use.