Sunday, January 22, 2012

Sadie, Yoko, Cast On Experiments and the Pridham stand

Well Yoko aka Sk860 midgauge does fit on the Pridham's stand. There's not a lot a room for much, but it fits, just, and it's a very sturdy stand for a heavy machine.

I've been trying to get a neat ribbing cast on on it, and the last thing to try is the WY first, one row of ravel cord then pretend it's not there.

Here is the photo of both, the one on the left, is straight onto the comb and the one on the right is WY first.

The photo isn't as clear as it should be, but, the WY one is a lot better and worth the hassle. Plan C will be to do the ribs on Miss Pinky Passap, which is no hassle, but I'd have do waste yarn and take it off, and rehang it anyway, then I'd not bother and do the whole thing on the Passap, and it would be too stiff. However, I do need to get this machine learnt and I can't do the 10ply on the Passap.

Some notes for me for next year when I forget what I did:

Do the WY exactly same setting as the project except don't bother to rack back, just leave it in set up for a couple of rows of waste yarn, one row ravel cord, then pretend it's not there and cast on with the main project yarn.

Now some Sadie notes:
Machine: SK860+ribber, with 5 x 200G Bendi Rondo 8ply in Plum.
2.2 IR rib, T2.2/2.2 C/O WY knit a few rows then begin.

I'm doing the largest size, plus a few extra stitches so I can have a few more rows into the raglan. It's coming along.

Back: L55/R55 in 2:2 IR T2.2/2.2 90 Rows. RC000.
Transf all ribber needles onto single needle on MB. 110st T4.1
+1ea end ev 4 (but if I ever make another make it 6) to 124sts
-> straight to RC56. RC000
-9 x 2
-1 ea end ev alt row, but also the first 2 return rows (that 4 dec ea end ev row).
to 32sts. Cast off.

Fronts: L22.R25, same as back, but decided the have a 2st purl gutter next to front band (nos are 49st, +1 to 56 =RC32)
straight to; RC 48 on NE -14 tot = -1 NE ev 5rows.
At RC 56. RC000
AE: -9. -1 AE ev row x 4, then alt rows. RC62.

Sleeves: L33.R 32, 2:2 IR to RC54, RC000
transf for 66 sts - one end moved from R32 to R33 and 2 sts from ribber onto the two empty needles.
+46 sts total = +1 ev 4 rows to 112 sts
to RC98. RC000
-9 x 2, -1 each end next 4 rows, then alt rows to RC62
Front AE is 62RC, Back AE is RC70
over next 8 rows, short rows on FAE side x 6 sts ev 2nd row while still doing dec on BAE
to RC70 - 24sts (shortrowed so do one more over the lot, over the back and onto the other sleeve to make it nice and even). Cast off.

P/U .. sts 2:2 IR rib 14 rows. x 1
P/U .. sts 2:2 IR rib 7 rows, work out buttonholes, 7 rows.

C/O (ewrap) 90sts knit 4 rows, garter back over, knit 6 rows.
S/R -6needles, knit 2 rows (maybe flipover?) .. tba. no, no, non of that worked.. instead, as all the people on Rav say - do the collar in one not two pieces, and that doesn't work too well on the KM for a couple of reasons - not enough needles and too much flipping and increasing, quicker to knit and much less likely to drop stitches and make a mess.

*Here's what I did instead:

Collar on 4.00mm needles:
C/0 90 x 2 - pm centre back (CB) 180 total.
S/R sequence:
Row 1: knit to last 6 W&T **
Row 2: purl to last 6 W&T
Row 3: do increases*** but count from end, not the W&T, to 2 before CB, W&T
Row 4: purl to end
Row 5: knit across to CB count increases knit to end
Row 6: purl to end 2 sts before CB, W&T.
Row 7: knit to end
Row 8: purl

4 rows on neck edge and centre back, 6 rows on the bits in the middle.

** I did Japanese wrap and turn technique - instead of wrapping around the needle, put a paperclip or bobby pin on the yarn next to the base of the first stitch after turn, then when time to knit back, pick up the pin/clip and knit it with the first stitch that wasn't wrapped. It really gives a beautiful finish. (Here is where I first saw how to do it and shows it much clearer than my words)
*** I did my increases - counting from each end and each side of the centre back, 11, 6, 6 ... middle bit ... 6, 6, 11 - CB - 11, 6, 6, middle bit, 6, 6, 11.

*HOWEVER, after doing that a couple of times and reading to the end of the instructions, I thought of a much better way:

On the short rows and increase block of rows (and PUT IN THE MARKERS, you'll need them):
Row 1: work to last 5 or 6 sts (6 is better) W&T
Row 2: work to last 5 or 6 sts W&T
Row 3: do all the increases as written or make up your own, but make life easy and do the increases next to the marker, and work to last 3 sts W&T.
Row 4: work to last 3 sts W&T
Row 5: work to end
Row 6: work to end (all stitches)

Making two rows on the ends that have to be squished on top of the front bands.. Honestly!!! The less rows the better.

This is the first project I chose to do out of my 2012 bag of not done projects. It was really painless, very convenient, all I need to do is get busy. There looks to be about 10 projects for Yoko. I'm not too sure if I'll do all of them in one go, but I'm trialling getting out a machine, doing a couple of projects and putting it away. Perhaps I'll tackle half of them then do something else, well see. I want to do a pair of fair isle socks next. I can see a time when I'll just get it out do a project or two and put it away again, topping up as things wear out.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Double Layer Felted Slippers

These are my working notes, so I'll add a little bit so they make more sense in context.
They should not be your first pair of felted slippers.
They are perfect for your second pair - you have worked out how many stitches and rows you need.

Now you are adding an extra layer - instead of adding thickness with garter stitch, I do this on the machine by first doing a separate layer, with EON slip stitch, every fourth row alternating the slip - starting on needle 2 after the first four then on needle 3 on row 8. (you can see how you need to know how many stitches and rows.)

Next you are knitting the cuff. It has four sections - a front - a back +1 and two sections of 5 stitches inbetween. - so your needles might be 13/5/24/5/12 = half back +1/ 5 sides/ front/ 5 sides/ half back
To make the cuff you need your cuff stitches plus 10 extra (or whatever you decide).
make the cuff with the slip stitch alternating every fourth row, then joining them onto the front.
either join it all up or if you leave it separated, you can take it off - back+1, sides, front, sides, back. Put the sides on bobby pins (or paperclips or anything that you can take off each indiviually)
then put your backs onto the machine - one or two. if you want to just the inner and make your liner.
first you will do your short row heel - with every 4th row alternating slip stitch loops, and back -
now you pick 1 of the side stitches, each row, put another one on the other end (10 rows will have a stitch from the cuff on the end before knitting the next row (remembering to do your 4th row slip stitch all the way to the end)
work to the end of your and do your short row toe. put the stitches on a needle or waste.
back to the begging of your cuff back.
pick up the outer stitches,
then with the same number of stitches and rows, knit your outer, picking up the slip loops every 4th row, doing your short rows, picking up your side stitches all the way to the toe, put your inner on your toe.
then use the SAYG technique to do the upper - knit to front of cuff, and graft.

Sorry I didn't put the explanation in  first. I do these notes for me. But I do think that they are the best and my family love, love them and I have to do a couple more this year. For Theo.

These are for me out of the Nundle 8ply wool.
I used 4 x 50 g of Camel and 3 x 50 g Natural

The cuffs and sole are double thickness, joined with the slipped stitch of the first layer being placed onto the needles on the second layer.
Machine: KX350, stitch size: T9.
Cuff: Cast on 63sts, then every 4 rows, alternate the EON stitches slipped to RC40,
Straight to RC 44
Then pick up the slip stitch loop and put on needles, every 4th row to end.

Next ones make 24+24+10+1
24 sole and top, 10 = 5 each side and 1 for the seams.
Sole Liner: on 26sts, overlap the ends with two stitches on the centre 13/14sts, then short rows to 12 sts and back for the heel and AT THE SAME TIME do slst EON ev 4 rows
RC 60 put marker for SAYG pick ups.
S/R to 8 knit off on WY or needle
Sole Outer: divide remaining stitches on cuff 5/26/5. The photo showed the pick up on the other side of the cuff, I'm just about to put the first line of slipped stitches onto the needles.
Pick up 26 +1 on other side of cuff. work S/R and pick up every 4 rows down to 12 and back.
Next: pick up 1 st each side x10 - 5 sts each side, don’t forget to pick up slst all the way to toes.
End of S/R to 8, put all stitches from inner onto needles knit back to beginning (top of toe).
at SAYG markers, pick up all side bars on the way back to the cuff.
In other words, I'm always picking up the slipped stitch loops every 4th row, then doing the short row heel, then picking up 5 stitches each alternate side (10 rows) so I have a wider ankle cuff, then working to 60 rows, setting my side bar with a bobby pin, starting my short row toe down to 8sts, putting all the live stitches from the sole liner onto the needles and finishing the short rows back.
Graft to cuff, sew back seam with a loose over stitch.
Felt. This is the bottom of the felted layers. The Bendigo Rustic felts so much better, more evenly, but I have over 40 of these Nundle balls, that I got for $1. at this rate I'll have enough felted slippers for the rest of my life. Unless I so something daring and make a very large coat or blanket out of it.

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Lost and Found Hand Knits for 2012

The main reason I started on my Aidez cardi was I couldn't find the rest of my Midnight Tweed for my Pewter Coat. In the great clean up I found it and other started projects. My list of found hand knit WIPs are:
  1. Pewter Coat in Bendi Midnight Tweed
  2. Capri cardi in Bendi back room treasure
  3. Vest in that really nice handspun corridale I got at the Bendi show
  4. my Shadow Tweed jacket. I had made it up to the armholes, but read it stretches way out of shape, even though it's hand washed, seems to be worse on the larger size, so I've undone it to knit the smaller size - I think the pattern was Emerald. I don't think it will knit on the midgauge, pretty sure it will have to be a hand knit.
  5. really old jumper I bought the wool for - must be around 2003/4ish, that Lauren bought as well, made her jumper and wore it to death and has since thrown it out. And mine got lost in the mess. When I get to it again, I'll see if I can machine it.
My grand plan is to get them all knitted or frogged this year. I don't mind having a couple of hand knits on the go at once, the Midnight tweed has to be done in good light for instance, but I don't want to lose track of where I put the wool again and not have too many on the go at once. The only other thing I need to hand knit are the two packets of Zoomy cotton blend into vests.
Well that's my plans for 2012. Get the hand knits down to one or two, get my machines working away at the stash and enjoy making things again now my spare room is sorted. It was worth packing everything away and organising it.
Now onto stash reduction works.