Sunday, July 24, 2022

Cleaning cloths and why doing a swatch is important

 Here's two ideas I found on line:

Eileen Montgomery's Tuck Stitch Dishcloths

Roz Porter's Wash Cloth via way back machine

And one from a well know lady at our club, Joyce, who is no longer knitting, but her "famous" pattern has!

Joyce’s Cleaning Cloth Pattern - (which I haven't tried yet - but it's here if someone wants to)

Card 1 double length. 

Yarn 2 ends Cashmilon 2/28 acrylic 

Set Ribber to H.position for all needle rib. 

Bring 71 needles on main bed to W.P.Bring needles on Ribber to W.P. having end needles on ribber bed. Carriage on right 

T. 0 T. 0 Knit zig zag row right to left, hang cast on comb. T.1 T.1 knit 1 row circular, ie one row each bed. T.3 T.3 set machine to read pattern and to knit on both beds, knit 1 row. 

Set main carriage to slip and Main bed tension to 4 and Ribber bed tension to 2. 

Knit approximately 140 rows , finishing with carriages on right, cancel slip setting . 

Knit one row to left T.4 T.4, set ribber to P position transfer all ribber bed stitches to main bed ,change to H.positon, bring alternate needles on ribber to W.P. M.Bed tension 6 ribber tension 4 knit one row, drop all loops off ribber needles ,. 

Latch tool cast off . Darn in ends. 


So, here I am armed with way, way too many 50g balls of "Crochet and Knitting", Soft etc, you know the ones, individually wrapped in plastic and discontinued a long, long time ago.

And I'm not using their 2, 3 or whatever ends of whatever, noooo, I have a mountain of plastic wrapped space stealers, and did I mention the enormous piece of thick cardboard tubing in the middle? no? well, they all have one - plastic, cardboard and "equiv" 4ply cotton, is you are lucky it says that.

And now I guess people would like some photos. OK here goes:

This photo shows the difference between stitch sizes. I misread my notes and did some on T5 and in the mid section I did 160 rows, but when I re-read the print not my dodgy pencil scribble, I should have done T6, and I did 140 rows. 

Here's my final decision after two didn't make the cut and were rewound, different numbers to double or not...

Single bed 4.5 machine - using card 1 (1x1) elongated

Cast on 60 stitches around the gatepost, exactly as you'd think, (and I weave in the end while I'm at it), 

T7 knit one row then gently tease all the stitches off the gateposts (make sure they are) 

Knit one row back Reset RC 000

Set machine to: TUCK, Double height or elongated.

Knit 20 rows.

RESET machine, SLIP MT+2 (ie T9) TAKE OFF elongated (on the SK, lever back)

Knit 10 rows

RESET machine: TUCK MT (ie T7) select elongated (SK lever forward)

Knit 140 rows

RESET machine to SLIP as above

Knit 10 rows

RESET machine to TUCK as above

KNIT 20 rows

RESET machine to STST (SK0, KH that lever on the left side of the buttons)

Knit 2 rows (to match the start)

Cast/Bind off around the gateposts.

Weave in the end, launder, dry, press, fold and I liked Eileen's idea of a ribbon around the gift.

Also, I did find an interesting thicker waffle pattern on Jane's MK Treasure Chest site, for the bulky KH260+ribber, in 10ply/Aran or double the 4ply cottons, I am waiting for parts for mine, then I might give it a try. Looks interesting, but I doubt they will be for this year. The 260 needs a bit of work to get it back up and running, poor neglected thing.

Tuesday, March 23, 2021

Diana Sullivan's Midgauge Scrubbie Pattern from her YouTube Video

For those of us who like written instructions, here's what I do.

Buy some scrubby yarn from whoever sells it.

Diana uses her SK860, I'm using my LK150, both 6.5mm machines.

15cm tail is about that is needed each end.

Cast on: 

T1 or higher, it doesn't matter because I think T8 is too loose.

L19/R20 EON


hang comb

bring all needles into work


knit to RC30

Take off by threading 15cm end through all the loops 

Pull both cast on/off ends and firmly tie the ends together

Sew outsides together, purl side out, to form a circular disk.

Perfect project for any beginner and I'd guess that perhaps working EON on a standard machine MIGHT be doable, but certainly a bulky would do it just fine, but at a lesser stitch size, of course.  Both these alternative would need a tweek. And if I was doing these on the KX350, then I'd maybe, do T7, that sounds about right to me.

If none of that makes any sense to anybody else, Here's Diana's Video with an excellent explanation of all the steps. 

Wednesday, February 17, 2021

FC6 Fair Isle Carriage on the LK Midgauge Machines

 Fair Isle settings:

  • side levers - triangle
  • Hold levers - I
  • FI lever - F
  • Main Yarn - 1
  • Contrast - 2
  • Yarn in feeder 1 knits B
  • Yarn in feeder 2 knits D (make sure all the way out or it mispatterns yarn 1)

Slip settings:

  • side levers - solid circle
  • Hold levers - II
  • FI lever - O
  • Main Yarn - 1

Tuck settings

  • side levers - triangle
  • Hold levers - I
  • FI lever - O
  • Main Yarn - 1

Short rows in all of the above pattern styles: same as LC2 either take them off or knit back to A.

Short rows in stst - as usual Rusel levers to hold.

Friday, October 16, 2020

There's a Bear In There - Machine Knit Shapely Harry Bear

Berroco has given permission to use their Harry Bear pattern and photo as a base for my machine knit version. The original handknit pattern can be found here

I was trying to find a nice looking teddy bear pattern to machine knit. There are many quick and easy machine knit patterns available. This is not one of them. It is a slow knit and lots to do. I have no complaint about the available bear patterns that you can make in 30 minutes, fine if you want to make one of those. But I didn't.

The pattern has slight adjustments and reworded so it’s easier to knit on the machine. Therefore, it’s not a quick knit, there are increases and W&T in the same row and there is something to do almost every second row, sometimes every row. 

Any machine that will knit the chosen yarn is good to go. I did mine on the LK150 midgauge. T4 on the LK150 with Ice Yarn Eyelash, plated with 2/28 cashmilon, both acrylics. I used safety eyes and noses which I bought from Aliexpress in China, and cut up 2cm squares of felt to put between the eyes/nose and the washer in the inside, so they cannot be pulled through the knitting. 

A .pdf copy of the pattern is available on Ravelry

es = each side. The bear is completely symmetrical. Always the same shaping each side, even the ears, which are worked separately on each side of the head, nonetheless, they are identical. 

RC = the row counter is used to track how many times the carriage trips the row counter. The number on the row counter corresponds to the set of actions until the carriage moves. Also the needles in work are indicated in brackets at the end of each row. Every second RC is LtoR knit unless otherwise stated. 

2PT & 3PT: 2 and 3 prong tool, use either to move edge stitches out one needle (inc) or in one needle (dec), ALWAYS BOTH ENDS, the original pattern has increases on the edge, not a good idea on the machine. Increases are heel of the adjacent stitch, I liked from the centre outwards towards the edges. 

2PT Inc all needs in work

PRE INC are necessary to allow the following row increases to be carried out. (increasing 10 to 18 is tricky) If unable to do all the increases in the designated row, increase in the following row (a little fudge but it works in a pinch). 

2PT Pre inc: Use 2PT to inc to move 1 ndl outwards leaving 3rd needle each edge empty, bring empty needle into work, knit, undo the loop to free up extra yarn for increases that RC. One row has x2, for increasing 10 to 18sts. 

W&T wraps. Written eg 1H, 1n x 3, breaking that down to each component: 

    1H, 2H, 3H etc means 1 or more needles are out to hold 

    1n or 2n etc means how many needles are being wrapped, each short RC

    x1, x2, x3 etc means how many times to repeat the wraps 

Set the carriage to hold, bring out the number of written next to H on the opposite side to the carriage, knit that row, bring the needle next to it out to hold to wrap it and ONCE ONLY bring out the H needle number on the RIGHT, then wrap and turn till done. When finished, W&T 1H, 1n x 3 will have four needles each end out to hold. Finish off, COR, push left needles at opposite side of carriage back to UWP, knit (doing final wrap at the same time) take off hold and continue knitting all needles. 

Knitting off W&T, 4 needles
in UWP knit that row, then
take off hold, knit all sts next row.

Cx INC or DEC 1sts each side. Pull centre needle/s out and increase or decrease each side.

NA: Needle arrangement Arm additions require 9 sts of WY ready to commence arms OR don’t bother and ewrap. Front arms. WY instead of picking up sts from back is up to the knitter. 


Legs x 2

Cast on EON 3ndls MT-2 

RC 000 MT 

RC 1: Knit (6 sts) 

RC 2: 2nd and even rows, unless otherwise stated, Knit (6) 

RC 3: NA: inc dots (10) 

RC 5: W&T 1H, 1nx1 es (10) 

RC 9 :3PT Dec es (8) 

RC 10 to 16 knit (8) 

RC 17: 2PT Dec es (6) take off on onto far right needles. Make another one, but put on R1 to R6 nds (R2, 4, 6) 

RC19: Joining Row (WS): L7xR6, Inc both edges of centre x (usual heel increases from both) (13) 


RC 21: INC 1n each side C3 (15) 

RC 23: NA:111.11111.11111.111 Inc dots from centre (18) 

RC 25: W&T 1H, 1n x 3 (18)

RC 33: DEC 1n each side C4 (16) 

RC 35: NA: 11x11x11111x11x11 Dec x (12) OR 3PT dec x2 es 

RC 37: 3PT dec es (10) 

RC 39 : K 10, Hang WY 9sts (1st arm) (19) 

RC 40: K9 (1st arm), k10, Hang WY 9sts (2nd arm) (28) 

back of bear

RC 41 to 46: Knit (28) 

RC 47: Take off last 9 sts on WY, k to end (19) 

RC 48: Take off last 9 sts on WY K to end (10) 


RC 49: 2PT dec each end (8) 

RC 50: Pre inc 2PT es 

RC 51: NA: 1.1.1111.1.1 inc dots (12) 

RC 52: Pre inc 2PT es 

RC 53: NA: 1.111.1111.111.1 Inc dots, then W&T H3 1n x 2 es (16)

RC 58: Pre Inc 2PT es 

RC 59: NA: 11.111.11111.111.11 Inc dots(20) 

RC 61: K4, +1, k10, +1, k4 (22) 

RC 63: K5, -1, k8, -1, k5 (20) 

RC 65: -1 dec centre sts. then 3PT dec es (17)

RC 67: 2PT dec es then W&T H3 1n x 3(15) 

Ears Prep: 5/5/5 RC 75 slip last 5 to Hold, 5 on WY, 5 sts in WP for 1st ear. K5 (COL) set carriage to hold 

ear increases


Row 1 : Inc dots (8) 

Row 2 & 3: Knit (8) 

Row 4: 2PT dec es (6) 

Row 5: 2PT dec es (4) 

Row 6: 1PT dec es. Bind off last 2 sts (I don't to that, I leave last two and graft them to the fronts)

2nd Ear: toddle over the the last 5 sts and.. Work same as the other ear. 


Legs x 2 (second on R ndl 1-6 for ease of join) 

MT-2 Cast on EON 3ndls 

RC 000 MT 

RC 1: (6 sts) 

RC 3: NA: inc dots (10) 

RC 5: W&T 1H 1n x 3 (10) 

RC 13: 3PT Dec 3es (8) 

RC 14 to 20: Knit (8) 

RC 21: 2PT dec es (6) take off on 2x3PT and put far right needles and make another one but put ndls 1-6 right (R2,4,6) 


R23: Joining Row: 7.x.6 Cross 2 centre heel increases onto empty ndl (13) 

RC 25: INC 1 each side C1 (15) 

RC26 Pre Inc 2PT es 

RC 27: NA: 1.1111.11111.1111.1 inc dots (19) 

RC 29: W&T H3, 1n x 3 (19)

RC 37: DEC 1 each side C5 (17) 

RC 39: DEC 1 each side C5 (15) 

RC 41: 3PT DEC es (13) 

RC 43: K13, then attach 9 sts from back (1st arm) Right sides together, from WY loops (if this is the first time you’ve knitted it, make a 9st WY, same as the back) (22) 

Picking up the other side

Position on arms
Picking up from back arm cast on

RC 44: K9 (1st arm), k13, then attach 9 sts from back (2nd arm) (31) 

RC 45: DEC 1 each side C3 (29) 

RC 47: Knit (29) 

RC 49: DEC 1 each side C3 (27) 

RC 51: take off last 9 sts k18 (18) 

RC 52: Take off last 9 sts (9) 


RC 53: 2PT Dec (7) 

RC 54: 2PT PRE INC es 

RC 55: NA: Inc dots(10) 

MT+1 (or a bit more)

RC 56: PRE INC 2PT X 2 ES (10) 


RC 57: NA: inc dots, inc from centre (18) 

RC 58: 2PT PRE INC es 

RC 59: NA: 111.1111.11111.1111.111, then W&T: H7 1nx3 (22) 

Front of bear

RC 66: 11X11 pm X for nose BUT I MOVE TWO ROWS DOWN which would be RC64 mid W&T 

RC 67: 1PT X 2 DEC each side of 0, then 2PT INC es (20) 

RC 69: K9, k2 tog, k9 (19) 

RC 71: 3PT DEC es (17) 

RC 71: 6X5X6 pm X for eyes 

RC 73: 2PT Dec, then W&T H3 1n x3 (15) 

Ears Prep: 5/5/5 RC 75 slip last 5 to Hold, 5 on WY, 5 sts in WP for 1st ear. K5 (COL) set carriage to hold. 

Ears: Work same as for back. 

Straight off the machine and after a brush!

Wednesday, October 7, 2020

I've Been Using Eyelash Type Yarns Lately

 I have been using fluffy and eyelash yarns lately on my Brand Spanking New LK150. And I have had to explain this more than once, so I thought it might be good to post.

Eyelash yarn I've been using has a "nap" for want of a better word. The fibres sit flat against the base cord one way, and when knitted WITH the fibres flat against the cord, the machine process knits them in with the cord, making sewing up easy. Knitting against is OK, but I did find it harder to sew up.

Straight out fluffy yarn knits flat and loves a good brush AFTER seaming. 

Hand knitting tends to push the fibres out on the purl side, which doesn't happen with the machine.

But as you can see, it brushes out very well!

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Undyed sock blanks and Jellybean Dyeing

Back in 2013 I bought a bag of 10 x 100g undyed sock yarn. So I opened up the bag and was going to do some sock blanks and see if I could sell them. 10 is a lot. Then I got side tracked with jellybean dyeing.
I bought a $2 bag of jelly beans from Reject Shop. I already did the sock blanks, 2 ends, T10 on the KX. 80 sts, with a dropped stitch in the centre. and off I went to jellybean dye them.
For both I put down a towel and put a long strip of plastic wrap down to lay the blank on it. I wanted to do stripes. and on the other side I did random plonked on.
Don't use the natural coloured ones, The cheap ones are best.
First batch was a but underdone I squeezed out too much water and didn't sort out the colours first so I didn't realise that there was a dark pink and a red, so they got mixed up,
I started at the red end and used the towel to start the roll up all the way to the end. I didn't want the colours bleeding into the top, so there's layer of plastic all the way through. 
I microwaved for 4 mins on high and took it out straight away. Unwrapped and splashed the vinegar around, rinsed, 
washed and it came out with the colours not through all the layers. Here they are, all wrapped up, before and after.
The unwrapped first experiment

For the next one, I sorted out all the colours first, then cut all the jelly beans into two and put them cut side up, in stripes, both sides, just like the first one. I put the cut black ones right along both the edges. I also chopped up three or four pinks and sprinkled them on the dropped bit. I was pleased with that idea too.
I left the blank a lot wetter and pritzed the jelly beans with some more water before I wrapped them up, same as before.. I microwaved for 2 mins then turned it over. had a cup of coffee and did another 2 mins. I could have done 2 more I think, next time.
Here's the second batch halfway through, with a much better saturation of both ends and the unwrapped blank, after it's vinegar bath, followed by a eucalyptus wash.  
Over on Ravelry we have a whole thread on playing around with this in the Sock Blank Artists Group. And here's the second sock, and the tiny bit left over. And here's the second one, with the colours much more vivid. I like both.

Friday, November 8, 2019

AYAB on KH910 beginner notes

Learning to use the AYAB hack on the KH910, I decided to recreate a punch card project I've done many, many times, putting a mini card 1 or 3 border each end to match up with pattern.
And here's one on the SK280:

These are my notes for me, I haven't used a brother carriage, punch card or electronic..
I thought this was good practice so I can leant how to use AYAB and a brother electronic carriage as I haven't used either before.
Select chosen border card, eg, Card 1 or 3 onto the pattern card, whatever matches.
Plug in AYAB and select the pattern you want to use in the main pattern first to get the correct needle position L and R THIS IS ESSENTIAL so write it in Rav notes so you don't forget.
Note: KCI automatically selects the last needles each end so they knit.
cast on LtoR according to what AYAB has said what they are.
Select border pattern in AYAB
expand repeats to needles
COL but far left beyond mark
KC I, but don't select any function, leave it on N
MUST turn on BUZZ, will hear a click, a buzz and another BUZZ as passing the lights
SLOWLY knit 1 row LtoR to preselect needles OR the first couple of needles won't select.
COR: press TUCK buttons
Knit rest of the rows, either stop when it's long enough or...
turn on the buzzer for the long beep when finished.
Two alternative as this point.
PUSH ALL needles back into WP (B)
  1. set to slip and move RtoL (or don't actually do any knitting, cause it's slip) TAKE yarn out.
  2. knit 1 row
set up next pattern
COL, as before BUZZER ON
  1. keep on slip but watch the yarn in the wheels but not if you've taken it out REMEMBER TO SHUT THE GATE when putting yarn back. (It ain't an SK)
  2. knit across.
If 1. look for anything accidentally knitted/ dropped
If 2. undo two rows.
Look at needle set up to ensure the preselected in UWP are the knit and the needles in WP (b) are next to TUCK.
If necessary, change the starting row in AYAB, to say row 2 or 3 and redo the redo the preselect and off to knit 600 rows.. Alternatively, knit 1 or 2 rows and undo the last one or two rows and keep knitting  whichever looks easier on the day.
Close to the end, turn the BUZZER back on so you know when the pattern finishes, then do the same thing, work out that it's tucking on the correct needles and finish the border.

It's a lot easier timewise, to snap the border card on the right row so it matches up with the pattern you want to flow into, undo the snaps and join for the next 600 rows, undo, attach the border and presto. But if that's the machine that's out and the punch card machine is packed away.. well now I know how to do this project.
However, I thought this a very good exercise to familiarise the AYAB and the electronic carriage.
And here it is, and this would after about half a dozen or more false starts, and the blow by blow how to do so I never have to spend a whole afternoon not doing any knitting.