Double Layer Felted Slippers

These are my working notes, so I'll add a little bit so they make more sense in context.
They should not be your first pair of felted slippers.
They are perfect for your second pair - you have worked out how many stitches and rows you need.

Now you are adding an extra layer - instead of adding thickness with garter stitch, I do this on the machine by first doing a separate layer, with EON slip stitch, every fourth row alternating the slip - starting on needle 2 after the first four then on needle 3 on row 8. (you can see how you need to know how many stitches and rows.)

Next you are knitting the cuff. It has four sections - a front - a back +1 and two sections of 5 stitches inbetween. - so your needles might be 13/5/24/5/12 = half back +1/ 5 sides/ front/ 5 sides/ half back
To make the cuff you need your cuff stitches plus 10 extra (or whatever you decide).
make the cuff with the slip stitch alternating every fourth row, then joining them onto the front.
either join it all up or if you leave it separated, you can take it off - back+1, sides, front, sides, back. Put the sides on bobby pins (or paperclips or anything that you can take off each indiviually)
then put your backs onto the machine - one or two. if you want to just the inner and make your liner.
first you will do your short row heel - with every 4th row alternating slip stitch loops, and back -
now you pick 1 of the side stitches, each row, put another one on the other end (10 rows will have a stitch from the cuff on the end before knitting the next row (remembering to do your 4th row slip stitch all the way to the end)
work to the end of your and do your short row toe. put the stitches on a needle or waste.
back to the begging of your cuff back.
pick up the outer stitches,
then with the same number of stitches and rows, knit your outer, picking up the slip loops every 4th row, doing your short rows, picking up your side stitches all the way to the toe, put your inner on your toe.
then use the SAYG technique to do the upper - knit to front of cuff, and graft.

Sorry I didn't put the explanation in  first. I do these notes for me. But I do think that they are the best and my family love, love them and I have to do a couple more this year. For Theo.

These are for me out of the Nundle 8ply wool.
I used 4 x 50 g of Camel and 3 x 50 g Natural

The cuffs and sole are double thickness, joined with the slipped stitch of the first layer being placed onto the needles on the second layer.

Machine: KX350, stitch size: T9.
Cuff: Cast on 63sts, then every 4 rows, alternate the EON stitches slipped to RC40,
Straight to RC 44
Then pick up the slip stitch loop and put on needles, every 4th row to end.

Next ones make 24+24+10+1

24 sole and top, 10 = 5 each side and 1 for the seams.
Sole Liner: on 26sts, overlap the ends with two stitches on the centre 13/14sts, then short rows to 12 sts and back for the heel and AT THE SAME TIME do slst EON ev 4 rows
RC 60 put marker for SAYG pick ups.
S/R to 8 knit off on WY or needle
Sole Outer: divide remaining stitches on cuff 5/26/5. The photo showed the pick up on the other side of the cuff, I'm just about to put the first line of slipped stitches onto the needles.
Pick up 26 +1 on other side of cuff. work S/R and pick up every 4 rows down to 12 and back.
Next: pick up 1 st each side x10 - 5 sts each side, don’t forget to pick up slst all the way to toes.
End of S/R to 8, put all stitches from inner onto needles knit back to beginning (top of toe).
at SAYG markers, pick up all side bars on the way back to the cuff.
In other words, I'm always picking up the slipped stitch loops every 4th row, then doing the short row heel, then picking up 5 stitches each alternate side (10 rows) so I have a wider ankle cuff, then working to 60 rows, setting my side bar with a bobby pin, starting my short row toe down to 8sts, putting all the live stitches from the sole liner onto the needles and finishing the short rows back.
Graft to cuff, sew back seam with a loose over stitch.
Felt. This is the bottom of the felted layers. The Bendigo Rustic felts so much better, more evenly, but I have over 40 of these Nundle balls, that I got for $1. at this rate I'll have enough felted slippers for the rest of my life. Unless I so something daring and make a very large coat or blanket out of it.

Felted Slipper Boots

Working notes for felted slippers with longer ankle section.
Theo wants a pair. He loves the pair I already made him, but would like the next ones to have higher legs section, so his ankles don't get cold.

Theo's beloved slippers - before they were felted

I'm trialling a pair structured this way and Loz is crash test dummy.

Made on my midgauge SK860 aka Yoko, using that fabulous Bendigo Rustic 8ply. Which felts like the clappers, as we'd say. However, 8ply Bendi isn't the thickest - even felted, so I thought I'd make them with some padding. And to help me identify which area/s need improvement I did each section in different colours.
inner sole - bluestone
inside ankle - green tweed
outside ankle - damson
heel - green tweed
sole - damsom
toe green tweed
upper - damsom
Well, without any further adooo. Here's what I did.

It is necessary to know how long/wide you are going to make the foot section. The inner sole covers the entire section, from half of the heel and toe. I'm not sure if the the heel side of the short rows and the top of the toes need to be doubled as well or if fully lined would be good.. We shall see.

Make two inner soles:
Cast on 26 sts on WY, with MY, T8, knit one row, set carriage to hold. RC000.
put centre 8 needles and all 9 needles on the right to hold.
knit one row.
pull out 8 stitches on the left, wrap needle next to the carriage (side)
knit one row and wrap the yarn under innermost needle in hold and working from the centre to the outside, alternative bringing one needle into UWP on the opposite side to the carriage and wrapping under the next needle towards the outside each time, until the end.

In other words, identify the centre panel of needles and each time - wrap the needle on the same side as the carriage and put one needle back into work on the opposite side - each row - but wait, there's more to do..

Side levers go forward. and I left them there for the entire project.
Ev 4th row EON alternating slip stitch is worked.
to do that - leave the carriage in hold and the outside needles don't knit. but with the 1:1 ruler, bring every second needle to Upper Working Position (UWP) and set the carriage to slip. The needles in UWP are knitted, so make sure the first one is next to the new stitch being brought back into work.

Yes I know this is a little bit of work, and I did need to concentrate, but once I got into a rhythm, it went well.
My notes say:
C026 WY, 1 row, working short row from the middle 9/8/9 and EON slip st ev 4th row..
Keeping the EON every 4th row - and I found alternating which needle was slipped gave an evently felted result. (from the experiments I did on the bag a few weeks earlier).
Work K 60 rows then
short rows to 8, take it off and set aside until it's time to graft onto outer sole.

Now onto the ankle part.

I thought doing this in one whole piece was a better option than doing it in two sections. I trialled doing the joining seam in the back and the other one in the front. Loz will tell me which one is better.

Inside and outside pre felted shown

Cuff - I'm not going to explain how to do the slip EON alternating needles ev 4th row - see previous instructions.

CO 63 (1 for join) T8 - cuff on WY, change to Col 1, then 1:1 EON slip st ev 4th row 30 rows change col 2.
knit 2 rows, pick up loops from slip st EON and continue on till all rows /loops are worked.
T9 - join together 1 row.
T8 - Divide up 13/5/26/5/14 (= +1 for join) which is for back/sides/front/sides/back
take off 26 = for front in the middle of the work, then the 5 each side onto bobby pins then transfer the 13 and 14 (overlapping the centre stitch for 26 sts getting ready for the heel to be worked. Change to heel colour short row down to 9/8/9 join inner sole on all needles and work short rows out. - joining loops from slip stitches ev 4th row EON.

Change to under sole colour and reset RC AND keep a note of where you are with the every 4th row pick up loops.....
Theses are the things that are going on at the same time:
putting on the loops from the inner sole every 4th row
putting on the side stitches one at a time from the bobbypins (ten times in total)
putting the bar from the inner sole onto the end needle after the side sts only (ten times in total)
NOW pick up those side stitches, on opposite side of the carriage, pick up one of the bobby pins and put it on the last needle AND a side bar from inner sole, but just for these 10 stitches, AND keeping the putting the loops from the inner sole every 4th row (don't forget), for the first 10 rows - opposite ends of the carriage is having side stitches put on from bobby pins, loops are onto the correct needles every 4th, when that's done, continue to RC 60 rows, but don't join to the inner sole - that's done when the top is formed.
Now change to toe colour and work short rows to 8, attach the end of the inner sole, continue graduations back out to 26sts, change to top colour and join to both sole pieces SAYG to end.
Graft (kitchener) to cuff.
Secure and weave in ends.
Felt to desired size.
Stitch and row count may have to be adjusted. Loz will let me know if every second row would be better, whether the back of the heel needs to be double thickness - top of toes? top of foot? too soon to tell.